hypervish

Two ways to add a photo:
1. Upload the photo to a website, such as flickr, photo bucket, etc. And retrieve [img] code after uploading, then click "Go Advanced" on the post you want to add a picture to, and click "Insert Image". Once a window pops up, paste the url there.
2. Or, you can click "Go to Advanced" on the post you want to add a picture to, and then click on the paperclip icon. It will allow you to upload up to 5 pictures. Browse through your computer, and select each one, then click upload. Wait for it to refresh, and you should be good to go!

If there are others who need help with this and would like a video tutorial, let me know! I'm willing to make one!

thomas1

That means, maybe a shaky wire in door hinge area, or a control ecu going south....

AnthonyMtz

Yea im going to see if i can snag a ecu off the door of a rx300 at one of my local junk yards and see what luck i have maby the whole window/lock control switch assembly too :/

AnthonyMtz

#1 bad ground http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/michaelmartinez4515/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140515_210534_zpsab178cc8.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

timmui

I suspected this might become an issue, since you were basically bypassing the door switch in the door telling the car the door was closed. This also kills power to that bulb.

Also, if you want to show the image in post, you have to click on the little icon: Then paste the URL into the pop up.

After looking at the images, it is as I suspected. You got bulbs like this:

which has a single lead coming out the plastic isolating socket.

What you should be using is something like this:


To be clear, I am not saying that the LED configuration is what you need, I mean that the socket is the type you need. Basically, that little wire-like lead moves around and you get poor connection. Having the contact integral with the socket ensures a reliable connection.

That being said, something like this isn't necessarily bad because you'll notice there are ridges to keep the leads in place:

AnthonyMtz

Well the other ones i have tested out had 4 leads 2 on each side as show on that clear led i'll post another pic

AnthonyMtz

Here is the image of the bulbs i have tried and got the same results with they all have 4 leads making contact except the one with 4 clear led's [IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

timmui

For some reason the image isn't appearing. Of course, as I'm replying, I can see the link.



ETA: Ahhh! I found the picture you were trying to share:



Looking at these three bulbs, the middle one is the one I would suggest using to see if it is dim on the driver's side door. Make sure you compare it to the passenger side. Though the scuff marks on the contact may tell a story. I see black stuff on the contact. If I were planing to go crazy doing the LED thing on my RX, I'd try to get something like these from super bright LEDs, model # wled-whp5 A little pricey, but you don't have to figure out which side is positive for voltage.

BTW, when trying to post from photobucket, you need to copy the "direct" link under "Links to share the photo"

AnthonyMtz

Thanks for the info!! And i tried that led with the clear dioide's and on my passenger side lit nice and bright but on my driver back to the same old tricks....i even put the Old small halogen one back in that i took out and it was dim too... This sucks

timmui

Ok, we're back to the original issue if it isn't the bulb. You mentioned you were getting a new driver window switch, and this is what I suspected at first. I find it odd that you get 12V at the contacts in the door and the bulbs remain dim. I seem to recall you checked the fuses, but if you haven't, check both of them with the voltmeter in either continuity mode or resistance before getting that door switch. You should get near to if not exactly 0 ohms when measuring using resistance.

Also, make sure you have 12V across pin 14 (blue/black) and GND (pin 25 white/black) on the wire harness. If you have some alligator clips, wire up a LED bulb across those two pins and see if the bulb remains dim. I finally realized that the other 12V (pin 5 red/blue) is power for the ECU to control the other windows and that BDR means "battery to door".

Good luck!

AnthonyMtz

Ok when i got my volt meter again it was reading 10.7 volts when i touched my black lead to the cars chassie it went to 12.3 to 12.5 volts so i have indeed a bad ground i dont know if replacing the window switch will help or not....i tried hooking up the led bulb with some alligator clips And connected them straight to the wires of the step light and i got the same results so i unhooked the clip from the ground wire and connected it to a bolt on the door and sure enough it Powered up nice and bright so is this my window switch that is at fault or a ecu in the door?

timmui

Just to be certain, what were you measuring when you saw 10.7V? The wiring harness at the pins I mentioned above or at the light socket? I think I wasn't clear enough. You need to clip the LED to the wire harness which bypasses the ECU, which is part of the window switch, though judging from what you said about grounding the LED to the chassis, the wire harness is unlikely the culprit.

If you're measuring the voltage at the harness, this means the issue, either bad ground or bad supply voltage, is elsewhere. If you measure it at the socket, well, we already know there's an issue there and that may point to the ECU.

timmui

They say a picture is worth a thousand words... And seeing that LexMex already has a similar picture up...

The item in the red box is the wire harness. You should be measuring at the white connector. Granted, this is the passenger side, but the harness will look about the same.

AnthonyMtz

I measured the wired coming from the harness but i did not unplug the window switch and take voltage from the individual pins that provide power i wonder if the window switch controlling the lights has a bad geound pin or bad solder point i side...