hypervish

Phew! Now you can enjoy the RX!

gazi001

Very good news. How is the car running now?

salimshah

I would expect a noisy turns as an indication of an impending problem and pretty nasty noises when the axle broke apart.

Can you please share what you experienced/heard?

Salim.

jimsRX300

Yeah sure. The RX is Toyota's version of AWD. There is no LOW RANGE like in a Jeep or 4runner. Also the transfer case can't be locked.

When I put the 300 in gear, the engine idled down but the car went no where. Also, PARK didn't work, it was just neutral. I would mash on the pedal but the car would move foreword at 1/100th the speed. Almost like there is no fluid or the pump died. I verified pump operation through pulling a transmission line. I verified no blockage of the new filter (thought I left some packaging).

My scanner showed all kinds of crazy transmission codes. Which is why I thought it was toast.

The AWD system just takes path of least resistance, in my case the broken CV axle. PARK locks the front wheels against each other with a PAWL. Well, there was nothing to lock the left wheel too. Hence it would roll.

Hope this helps.

jimsRX300

Engine runs like a champ!! I'll only change the oil every 3000 miles to prevent sludge buildup.

Transmission shifts like crap. Slow shifting on 1-2 and 2-3. (Not Delayed but slow in the shift Out of gear, then into gear) Dealer verified no reflash available. It's as if the shift solenoid screens are clogged. I changed the filter with NAPA and flushed 10 quarts of oil. Used Toyota Type 4 approved. Well, it's WOLF'S HEAD ATF, but it's approved. I'm gonna put in my new Denso O2 sensor (P0135... I dropped it). Then I'll clean the AT speed sensors and unplug the battery for 15 mins, see what happens.

fastnoypi

so what were the main differences in the Highlander AWD 1MZFE vs the Lexus 1MZFE engine during your swap? The engine mount designs?

jimsRX300

The big difference between the two is the oil pump, an engine mount on the front of the engine (not needed on our RX) and a threaded stud sticking out that has to be moved. That's it! All the block holes are the same.

The oil pumps are DRAMATICALLY different. Different location of timing belt tensioner and pulley. Swapping oil pumps cures that problem.

If you wanna get technical the mounting brackets for the power steering pump differ as well. As well as the thermostat housing and front engine block water channel thing. The front Highlander exhaust manifold is different too.

I'll send pics before I scrap the engine and extra parts.

fastnoypi

Yes, please post any pics and any more details you can share! The 1MZFE can be found in alot of cars. So you're basically saying the block and heads are identical but the external accessories differ in selection, such as the oil pump and timing belt routing due to timing belt tensioner and pulley locations?

Now you've piqued my interest in the oil pump differences as well.

jimsRX300

What I would like to know is if the FWD 1MZ is the same as AWD. I find it strange that Toyota would make THAT many different blocks. I know that Chrysler has dedicated 4, 6, and 8 cylinder mounting standards. A friend told me that GM only uses 1 engine mount standard. So in theory a 4 cylinder could be dropped into a 2500 truck!

Turns out, when it comes to ATF I'm a dumbass. The WOLF'S HEAD is Toyota WS approved not Toyota T-IV. It's good stuff though, meets pretty much every other standard. Even the rare Ford Mercon LV. I'm going to first investigate cleaning those transmission speed sensors. Fix the broken O2 sensor and do a 20 minute battery disconnect.

I think Toyota T-IV isn't a full synthetic whereas this is. However THEIR WEBSITE ROCKS!! Check it out: http://www.wolfshead.com/

Turns out I bought the old stuff, its not the SUPER universal synthetic. I hope that fixes my rough shifting transmission.

fastnoypi

my theory is, that they are essentially all the same. It is not cost effective to make that many different engines to engineer and support warranty claims across many models. You can modify certain external bits such as the intake manifold to match the airflow characteristics you want to get a desired torque/hp output at a certain rpm.

When you break it down to purpose, an engine just makes the power, the transmission just wants to transfer that power to something usable. They don't care about one another, as long as they bolt up and mate at the flywheel.

jimsRX300

Here are the pictures! Took me longer to figure out how to post them that the engine swap!! I need to get with it. It's all associated with my google drive.

The first picture is the RX300 Oil Pump assembly on the blown motor. Pay careful attention to the location of the tensioner and tensioner pulley. Also the lower timing cover, by the harmonic balancer needs to be swapped over. The hole for the tensioner is in a different spot.

The second picture is the setup of the Highlander Oil Pump I removed

The last is the rear engine mount on the RX, it is IDENTICAL on the highlander. The only difference is the MOUNTING BRACKET. As you can see, the stain on the RX does not completely cover the mount but it does use all 4 holes. There is an alignment dowel. The Highlander matches it perfectly.

jimsRX300

Here is a shot of the fried cam. Oil starvation. It's a shame that I didn't have a chance to run a case of carb cleaner though the engine. Had I done that, and changed the oil pump it probably would have saved it.

jimsRX300

Here is the bolt that needed to be swapped over. It's for the power steering pump. The pumps are the same but the highlander mounting bracket is different. I cannibalized mine, kept the pump. In case mine goes, I can just buy a rebuild kit and swap. Kept the other A/C compressor too.

timmui

Jim thanks for these pictures. For my own clarification, I've marked up one of your pictures and wanted to find out if the bolt you mentioned is the correct one. (Red or purple) Not that I have the facilities to attempt this swap, though I do have access to another 1MZFE engine in my ES.

Also, if anyone happens to know what the two sensors are that I've circled on the right side of the image, please post what they are. TIA!

thomas1

one is the oil pressure sensor, and the other is the crank position sensor I believe. blue circle is crank position.
green is timing belt tensioner pulley idler....made by Koyo