gazi001

Ver nice job Timmui.

timmui

If you only ordered the unloaded caliper or don't want to bother with the bracket, you do not need the 17mm socket either. In my case, I couldn't get the caliper to separate from the bracket, so I did the entire bracket too. You'll see in some pictures where these caliper bolts are loose. I put them back in after getting them apart for pictures.

First start by clearing debris away with the brake cleaner. Pay particular attention to the bolts, brake line, and backs of the brake pads.

In the attached picture, spray penetrating oil into the caliper bolts (black arrows) and the banjo bolt (red arrow). You want to spray where the tip of the arrow is, not where the bolt is. The rubber boot has a metal end that rusts itself to the caliper. Wait at least 30 minutes to allow the penetrating oil to do its job. More sessions of penetrating oil may be needed if the caliper won't separate from the bracket.

Use the 14 mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the caliper bolts. Don't remove them or you'll have the caliper moving on you when you try to break the banjo bolt loose.

timmui

Optional: If you, like me, had trouble getting the caliper to separate from the bracket or wanted to replace the bracket too, you'll need the 17mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet. Or if you want to change out your rotor.

In the two pictures attached, I show the bracket bolt in black and the area to spray in red. The first is from the top of the wheel well, the second from beneath and towards the bumper side.

If you have trouble getting these to break loose (they are almost never touched by the mechanics when doing brake pad replacement only), you will need the breaker bar to get it started. You should have just enough clearance to get the entire bar inside the wheel well. Once you break the bolts loose, put one of your lug nuts back on. This will prevent the rotor from coming off along with the bracket. You will not be happy if you forget to put that lug nut on!

In my case, the caliper was frozen, so I had to use my big red persuasion tool to tap the bracket gently loose. Control is more important than power when using a dead blow hammer! Let the lead shot inside the hammer do the work. Leave the top bracket bolt in, but loose when doing this and tap at the bottom of the bracket.

At this point, you should have enough access to really get at those caliper bolts. Loosen both caliper bolts and then with the side of the 1/2" drive ratchet, tap the bolts. This should get them to break the boots off. Then keep the top one loosely in the bracket and remove the bottom caliper bolt. Remove the brake pads. Put bottom caliper bolt back in.

Again, only loosen the bolts because you need the leverage to get the banjo bolt loose!

timmui

Next, take the fuel line hose clamp and clamp the brake line near the flare fitting. Others have suggested using vise clamps with rubber hose on the ends and this may work, but I don't have any extra rubber hosing that fits my vise clamp, so for $8 at pep boys, I picked up the correct tool. No doubt I will get to use this again in the future. See attached picture. Remember, this clamp is only to keep brake fluid from completely draining out of the hose. It will still leak a little.

Now, while the caliper bolts (or bracket bolts) are loose but not removed, take your 14mm socket and 3/8" drive wrench and slowly undo the banjo bolt. Brake fluid will start leaking out. Because of the orientation of the brake line opening in the caliper, the fluid in the caliper will pour out on you when the banjo bolt is removed.

Place the banjo bolt in a safe place, if reusing, after spraying it down with brake cleaner. Gently move the brake line out of the way for full removal of the caliper (with or without bracket). Remove the bottom bolt on the caliper (or bracket) first. Be ready to catch the caliper as you remove the last bolt!

I have been told by several mechanics that it is perfectly OK to reuse the old crush washer if it looks good. Since the washers on my 2003 AWD RX are the new style steel washers, I tend to agree. See the first image in post #47 to compare with what you find. According to Toyota's service manual, 28 ft. lbs. are required to put the bolts back in place. I think I went a bit more than that just by hand when doing the 1/4 turn past snug.

Now, once the caliper has been swapped, follow this tutorial in reverse order for reassembly. Once all bolts are back in place, proceed to bleeding the brake line.

timmui

Thanks gazi

timmui

FWIW, I discovered that the new caliper's bleed valve was just a hair too loose and was letting brake fluid come out past the threads. While I did pick up thread sealant, I chose to use my old bleeder valve which did not leak. I had to use a steel bristled brush to remove the rust inside and use a metal pick to open the hole at the bottom of the valve. Then I shot brake cleaner down the valve to push rust and metal out of the little hole.

Even after all that, I still saw metal and rust particles leaving with the brake fluid as I bled it. I pumped out enough fluid to bring the reservoir down to minimum before closing the valve.

fastnoypi

I would never clamp a brake hose line! For something that vital to your brakes, you may pre-maturely stress the line and split or crack it leading to brake failure.

Just pull the line and insert a brake hose plug into the banjo to minimize the fluid seepage, then bleed your brakes after you reattach the brake hose.

Dorman part 13888 for 2 plugs @ $1.50 a pack.

timmui

Lol. I wish someone had mentioned those before I did my first caliper replacement!