ATLs460

Ok so my RX has acquired this awesome "memory steer". Where I turn right and after the turn my car steers/pulls to the right slightly when I'm going straight. Same with the left turns.


What I've tried...

Replaced strut mounts
Replaced sway bar links (they were shot anyways)

Now my question...

I had a washer that I wasn't sure exactly where it went when reinstalling the strut assembly. I believe I put it under the top nut on the strut shaft.

Where's that nut supposed to go? I think it might be my problem.

carguy07

I have not had mine apart yet, but I don't see any washers in the manual.

ATLs460

Yea I found a diagram as well and didn't see one either.

So I guess that rules that out...

salimshah

The whole strut rotates on the bearing on the top.

If the rotation is binding then you will get in the situation you are in.

Make sure all the nuts and bolts are torqued with the wheel on the ground or with weight on the springs.

Once the assembly is good, the self centering happens due to caster. An alignment is due after suspension work.

Oh, did I mention that the suspension should be left loose and the vehicle has to be bounced number of times before torquing the nuts/bolts down ... third para above.

Salim

ATLs460

Salim, can you tell me a little more in depth about the torque procedure?

salimshah

Since you have everything assembled, just loosen the top nut and the three nuts for the upper mount and the two lower bolts of the strut clamp.

When I say loosen, it means loosen and then tighten softly (face them and then some). Now bounce the vehicle number of times for the springs to seat.

Then go about torquing them down to spec with the wheels on the ground. The picture has torque listed as pp(qq rr). The number 'rr' is in lb-ft torque.

Picture does not show the torque for the 3 top nuts ,,,, 59lb-ft.

It could be hard to torque the strut clamps with the wheels on. For that you may have to jack the RX and remove the wheel. If you do that, then place a second jack under the steering knuckle and lift the knuckle up ... this would compress the the spring. You dont want to lift the vehicle off the other jack, but compress the suspension. Torque down the bolts.

The top nut 36 lb-ft with the black square mark is supposed to be discarded. It is a aircraft style lock nut. As the bolt passes through it cuts a groove in nylon.
CAUTION: If you plan to remove this nut, you may need spring compressor.


Salim

ATLs460

Thanks for the info! Will do tomorrow!

ATLs460

So it worked. I loosened the Jesus nut and the 3 mount nuts then proceeded to stand on the rad support and bounce. Then I tightened all 4 nuts a little. Repeated this two more times and finally arrived to my proper torque values.

Went for a drive and all was well.

Thanks Salim

akfish

To much positive or negative caster will give you that steering issue too, it will not want to come back to center, its been awhile since I have done alignments....but I remember experimenting with caster.Anytime you change anything on the suspension you should have your alignment checked.

salimshah

Erics99RX:

Can you please add some details here and then add a link to DIY sticky and make this this the DIY for front shocks.

Thanks

Salim

ATLs460

Ok so I was asked to give a detailed write-up of my front strut mounts change as to help others.

This can also be used as a guide to replace struts, springs, bump stops, ect...


Start out by loosening up the lug nuts on the front wheels.

Engage the parking brake and I usually chock the rear wheels for added safety.

Raise the front of the vehicle and place jack stands appropriately.

Remove lug nuts and place wheels aside.

I started by removing the sway bar links from the strut. (You may need vice grips behind the nut as to keep the bolt from spinning.)

Then remove the brake line mount from the strut (12mm IIRC)

Unclip the grey plastic ABS sensor wire holder down near the hub.

Then loosen (dont remove completely just yet) the two large bolts (22mm IIRC) from the base of the strut. (If using hand tools you will need a wrench on each side to keep it from spinning and a 6 foot breaker bar will make removing easier as well.. I used an impact and they came loose easily.

Then loosen the top three 14mm nuts on top of the strut mount under the hood. (For the driver side access you will need to move the brake reservoir by taking off the 12mm bolt that holds it in place)

Then LOOSEN the strut top nut *******••••••••DO NOT REMOVE COMPLETELY UNTIL YOU HAVE THE SPRING COMPRESSORS ON THE SPRING AND THE STRUT ASSEMBLY IS REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE••••••••*******

Now you can remove the two lower 22mm strut bolts that we loosened before. (I found it was easiest to use a small 1/4" socket extension to tap them through the strut with a small hammer)

Now you can remove the three strut mount nuts up top. (Be prepared for the strut assembly to potentially fall out of the vehicle at this point. However mine took a little finesse to persuade it out of the wheel well lol)

At this point you have the strut assembly in hand.

Now the safety disclaimer... IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF HOW TO USE A SPRING COMPRESSOR OR DON'T KNOW THE DANGERS, PLEASE TAKE YOUR STRUT ASSEMBLY TO A QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL AND HAVE THEM DO THE WORK. A SPRING UNDER TENSION WILL EASILY SHOOT 50 feet in whichever direction it's pointed at a high rate of speed. Catch one in the face and it would likely smash the bones in your face into your brain. It's a guaranteed trip to the hospital ER.

Now that being said...if you've done it before or know someone who can help you, it's time to compress springs. I'm not going into detail on how, as I don't want the responsibility if someone has an incident.

**Take a picture with phone for a reference point for reassembly**

After springs are compressed (take them as far compressed as you can safely, it will make putting everything back together MUCH easier.)

Once the spring is loose between the strut, you can now remove the top strut nut. An impact will usually make this easier but hand tools should have no problem as well.

Once this is off everything will disassemble easily (basically fall to pieces)
It's a good idea to take a picture with your phone before everything falls apart as a reference when it comes time to reassemble)

I replaced my lower insulator using Lexmex's Home Depot tubing method, which was dirt cheap and worked amazing. Better than the stock insulator for less yay

I used 5/8in ID and 7/8in OD vinyl tubing. cost about $8. 18"-19" length is plenty for each spring, just clean up the dirt on the spring portion where the tubing will be on first before install the tubing and a little wd40 and a rubber mallet were needed to get the last 5" or so on the spring.

Mounts go on the same way the old ones came off.

The bearing goes red side up. And apply grease liberally under and on top of the bearing.

Align all the components (an extra hand comes in HANDy here haha but I did it by myself so it's doable). There's arrows on the mount and pinkish paint marks on the spring to line everything up correctly. **THIS IS WHERE HAVING A PICTURE CAN SAVE YOUR BUTT FROM A LOT OF HEADACHE**

When it comes time to tighten the top strut nut make sure you have the strut mount aligned properly to the notch in the strut or it will bind on you.

DO NOT TIGHTEN THE TOP NUT TO FULL TORQUE SPEC JUST YET. That will be done after the car is lowered on its wheels again. I'll explain more when we get there.

Now with the top nut snug you can remove your spring compressors. A little bit at a time on each side.

Now hoist the assembly back up in the wheel well and get the 3 upper mount nuts under the hood started first. (10x easier with another set of hands as well but doable on your own)

Don't torque these all the way either just yet. Just face them barely.

Now you'll have to wrestle with the hub to get the two lower 22mm bolts and nuts aligned but just be patient. The help of a small floor jack under the hub can be of assistance. Just make sure you don't jack it up enough to take the trucks weight off the jack stands thus crushing you. (See also - "bad time")

Now tighten the 22mm camber bolts to 155 ft lbs.

Put your ABS clip back on

Put the brake line mount back on the strut

Put the sway bar link back on the strut

NOW.....DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING! This is the last step before putting the wheels back on.

Remember we still have our three strut mount nuts not fully torqued and our struts top nut not fully torqued as well.

Now put the wheels back on (also dont fully torque lug nuts until car is lowered) and remove jack stands/wheel chocks and lower the truck back down.

Now torque the lug nuts (76 ft lbs)

Now we need to let the suspension settle. To help this occur I proceeded to jump up on the front crossmember under the hood and push down with my legs as if I were doing a leg press only faster. You want to do this 10 times or more letting the car bounce as much as you can.

Now tighten your three strut mount nuts a little and your strut top nut as well (not fully torqued yet though)

Then repeat this process several times (I did 3 rounds of this) before arriving at your final torque values.

Final torque values:
Two 22mm camber bolts 155 ft lbs
One 14mm sway bar link. 29 ft lbs
ABS brake hose mount nut. 21 ft lbs
Three 14mm strut mount nuts. 59 ft lbs
One strut top nut. 36 ft lbs
Lug nuts. 76 ft lbs



Now pat yourself on the wallet for a job well done. Go for a drive around the block with the radio OFF and see how she rides

Schedule a check up on your alignment to top it all off!


Obviously a torque wrench is needed here. If certain nuts bolts get over tightened you will not have good results.

On the other hand, an under tightened strut top nut (Jesus nut) can cause an extremely unsafe condition. It's called a Jesus nut cause that sucker better be torqued properly or you may be visiting him soon lol

Harbor freight sells very cost effective torque wrenches that anyone can afford (last time I paid $7 each for any size I wanted(with 25% coupon))



Now this was all from memory so if anyone sees something I missed or wants to add something, I'll edit accordingly

Any questions, just ask.

salimshah

Thank you Eric99Rx.

I have added a link in the DIY sticky.

Wheel alignment is recommended after suspension work.

Salim

fastnoypi

Good write up.
edit: There are no adjustments with the lower strut bolts. They are not cam bolts. Only adjustment is toe, via steering rack endlinks.


btw, do you have the exact hose specs you chose at home depot to use as a lower spring isolator? Did you go with a vinyl or rubber hose?
IIRC Lexmex's notessaid 3/4 in diameter.

ATLs460

I'll update the post.


I used 5/8in ID and 7/8in OD vinyl tubing. cost about $8. 18"-19" length is plenty for each spring, just clean up the dirt on the spring portion where the tubing will be on first before install the tubing and a little wd40 and a rubber mallet were needed to get the last 5" or so on the spring.

salimshah

lug-nuts --- 76ft-lb


Salim