DrDan

My 2003 RX-300 is exhibiting a peculiar symptom. When I lock or unlock the doors using the remote control buttons on the key, the doors audibly lock or unlock but the yellow marker lights do not flash. Since the interior light comes on and the locks function properly, it appears that the remote signal is strong enough, so why won’t the marker lights flash? Also, after several quick open close presses, the yellow lights might flash. Bulbs are good. Fob battery is good by default of operating the locks.

Thanks

Doc Dan

hypervish

It's one of the C-Best settings. You can take it to Lexus and they can change it how the lights will flash when you lock/unlock.

My lights will only flash if I press lock twice or unlock twice. They won't flash if I only press it once.

EnzoRX

DrDan,

I had the same thing happen to me. Check to see that ALL your doors have actually locked. If you are getting the audible beeps that your car is locking, but NOT getting the visual signal (signal lights blinking)....it is probably one of your door locks not locking.

Do this: Lock your car via your remote, go ahead and try and tug on ALL FOUR door handles and the hatchback to see if they open. If one of the doors did not lock, then you have a dead door lock motor. Do a search on CL to see how to replace the door lock motors. There is a step by step instruction thread somewhere on the RX subforum.

Good luck!

EnzoRX

Here is the link to the door lock actuator fix: Door lock actuator fix

DrDan

I replaced my driver’s side lock motor a couple of years ago. So, I am experienced in doing that. But, that doesn’t appear to be the case here. I went into my dark garage and walked around the car locking and unlocking the doors, listening for the beeps, trying opening them as you suggested and observing the lights etc. All doors locked and unlocked as they should. This appears to be an intermittent problem. I thought I would try to to isolate whether it was a signal sending problem related to my distance from the car or a receiving problem related to battery strength. I popped out my key fob battery and checked its voltage. Right on target at 3 volts. So for the moment I will blame the Lexus gremlins that are applying their mischief. I will keep an eye on things.

Thanks for trying.

Dr Dan

EnzoRX

DrDan,

Mine was also intermittent. Sometimes my RX lights would blink upon locking/unlocking...sometimes not. This went on for a few weeks until I found out that the front passenger side door lock motor totally died. I eventually replaced both front door lock motors. I figured since I had the front passenger door taken apart, the front drivers side would be of the same effort.

Since you replaced your driver's side motor, maybe one of the other motors is on its way of dying.

Hope you find your gremlins!

salimshah

And dont forget the fifth door (rear hatch)!

Salim

hypervish

From what I've experienced, nothing will happen if one of the door lock actuators is not working. Meaning the lights won't blink, and you won't hear the beep. You will only hear the door lock actuators trying to work.

DrDan

Aha, thanks for the insight.

That might be the gremlin, hearing the motors trying to work, but not actually working.
I'll keep tuned a little closer to that possibility when it happens again

Doc Dan

salimshah

The above does not qualify for 'gremlin(s)'. This scenario will be intermittent door lock actuator. The gremlin would be if all doors do lock and light-flash/beep is intermittent.

Gremlins are the intermittent software/program.

Salim

DrDan

Aha, I do believe this problems is in the realm of Gremlins. I locked my doors with the remote, heard the beep and about 1 second later I heard another unexpected beep. Huh? I did it again and the same result. Aha. Something is wrong. I walked around as Enzo suggested and tugged at the R-rear passenger door and it was unlocked! I looked through the other passenger window and I could see the door lock lever TRY to lock, but didn’t quite make it. A few more tries and it worked and then it didn’t work. It is a good thing I bought a couple of spare motors when I changed the driver’s lock. Since I knew how to do the job through a one time learning experience, it should be easy. Unfortunately, the rear locking mechanism is almost impossible to remove because of the window track position It can be done, but I wasted a lot of time trying to get the correct position to squeeze it out. Then for some unknown reason, the power connectors are super strong, or rather not pliable. No matter how hard I tried to squeeze the retaining clip, I could not budge it. Finally I had to use a channel lock pliers and a heavy duty spring hook to work it loose. The big protective housing almost removes any room for finger leverage. So far so good.
I saw other posts where people tried but gave up on separating the plastic motor housing. My first time was relatively easy. It more or less almost popped open by prying it with an X-Acto knife. Someone must have used super glue on the rear door. It was almost impossible to separate without some amount of damage. But, I finally took a curved X-Acto knife and my Dremel tool grinder and cut tiny teeth on the rounded blade to make a “tiny hack saw.” Since it was rounded, I could work some leverage on it. It took a while. But I could see why others gave up.
Anyhow, since my air servo was making noises again, I thought I’d do that job again. Piece of cake the second time around. But it started making the scratching noises the next day. So, this job lasted from roughly last October until June. Eight months? I’ll just have to live with it until if gives up the ghost.

Thanks for the heads-up on visually checking the door locks instead of just relying on the sounds.

Dr Dan