imherenow

looks like a good DIY. On my ES300 i am also getting a intermittent but its a P0325. so i would assume a reverse procedure then?Now i have erased the code and will wait if the code reappears
Also bigge31566 made an interesting point. In that case i assume you will just have to get a new sensor and undo all that wiring cutting that was done.

imherenow

darn it ..my sensor came back on. But its P0325. Just hate it. I am sure its some sort of a connection/electrical problem because i do not feel a thing in terms of mpg or performance.

99rxWA

Hey,

Just want to chime in and say that I also have completed this ECU wiring harness shortcut in order to save the time and money of replacing the #2 knock sensor. My car threw a p0330 code and would not shift into overdrive. The problem was intermittent still and would only happen ever so often, but you know I am just not down with driving at 5k RPM on the freeway.

Things I noticed:

When removing the glove box be careful once you have removed the 4 bolts (2 screw and 2 bolts). Make sure you pry the top of the plastic piece off carefully, there are 3 clips, 1 on either side and 1 in the middle. If you car is a 200K + like mine and it sits in the sun, the plastic on the dash may be brittle. I broke one of the clips, but hey, that's why there is 2 more!

Other than that this was so easy, just be careful when removing the connector from the ECU, splice the wires, and then done!

Thanks everyone on this thread!

00LexES300

Hi all,
My car, a 2000 ES 300, has been throwing the P0330 code as of this week and i am not interested in spending any more money on repairs. especially a costly one like replacing the knock sensors. I have opened the glove compartment box to expose the ECU and realized that i am LOST.

I need some help locating where the knock sensor wires are? I think the RX may have a different setup to the ES and the picture psoted here isnt helping?
I have been trying to find the page in the repair manual but cant.

ANY help or information would be greatly appreaciated! Thanks!

Bobster999

You will need the electrical manual for your car to figure it out.

Bobster999

Sorry guys, i have not been on here for a few months. I was not ignoring your PMs or posts. Unfortunately I don;t get an email when someone posts or sends me a PM. But its fairly straight forward anyway.

knykaza

Hi I just finished the DIY , took it for a test ride and no codes. Drove about 4miles and the engine light came on again. I had the code checked and it s the po325. Could both be bad? Any suggestions now?

Bobster999

Obviously you didn't do it right is all i can say. Mine worked, and still does work, as well as others.

kia2p

I would like to fix this problem on my RX300 myself. It keeps poping up even after reset. I know it is knock sensor bank 2 issue and I like the solution posted here to cut the wire coming from this bad sensor and connect the other end going to ecu to other sensor. I removed 2 screws and 2 bolts to get to ecu. Now I see many many wires there and I am lost.
I called dealer to request wiring schematic, they say it cost $150 and takes 2-3 weeks. I am new to this form and could use some of your expertise as I find this forum very helpful. Thanks guys for sharing your thoughts and tricks.

Protch

is that ONLY one Broken.. then engline won't start ? . am i right ?

imherenow

well i finally changed both knock sensors and the wiring from the dealer. I didnt want to take any chances on damaging or harming the engine based on year and mileage. And mann it feels strong after change. Its more responsive. i just love it. I f you can i highly recommend to change it. Sure its costly but you will appreciate it

HadYurPhil

I did the hack repair and it did bring back overdrive! Bank 2 was the faulty one. That seems to be the faulty one every time, judging from the posting here.

Sadly, now I have the P1135 code again, even though both oxygen sensors have been replaced.

nick7712

I completed the steps, I even went and bought the exact splicer you used in the photo, I believe I did everything correct, and it actually drove about 4 miles, With no CEL and shifting into OD. However I got the light again, Drove to the parts store, checked the codes and I have not only the P330 but also 325 and 1135 now.... So, I did go ahead and "redo it" with another splicer (same as photo, there were two in the box I got) and this time instead of just pushing the splicer down through the insulation on the White / clear wire I stripped off the insulation, and also It appears by your photo that both wires are in the same channel. So I went ahead and did it that way. I reset my codes (by disconnecting the battery for about 5 hours) and I am about to go try again. If it doesn't work I am just back in the boat I was in, so its not a great big deal to me. I have over 202,000 miles on the car. I am going to test it again now. Say a prayer for me. I will report back.

Bobster999

Its really very simple, if you have one bad and one good sensor circuit, and you essentially cut out the bad circuit and utilize ( by piggybacking ) the good circuit, and your connections are solid then I am unable to see how it wont work for you or anyone else. Its really very simplistic.

hooterbif

I wonder if it would be possible to pull the wire of the bad sensor out of the connector and then replace it with a wire that leads to a AA battery carrier. I only mention this because it is a potentially cleaner fix in that wires do not have to be cut. One difficulty could be getting the contact out of the connector housing.