My RX300 Inspection Failed Because of Battery
#1
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My RX300 Inspection Failed Because of Battery
Hello:
I own a 2001 RX 300. I haven't been driving it too much and it had expired inspection. One day I decided to renew the inspection. But when I tried to start it the battery was dead. So I jumped it using my other car and took it to the inspection guy. The vehicle failed inspection - 2 of the tests did not pass. The report said Catalyst: Not Ready and Evap: Not Ready.
The inspection guy told me that it could happen because of low battery. I told him that I had just jumped it. He said I should drive around for about 100 miles or so and then come back and it should be ok. So I drove it for about a week continuously and I did not have any problem with starting the car or something. However I did notice that the clock is always reset whenever I started the car.
Today I took it back to the inspection since it had been over 100 miles. He tested the vehicle immediately before starting the formal inspection process just to make sure it is ok (He used a hand-held device and hooked it up to somewhere under the dash board). And to my surprise he told me that the car is still giving two faults.
I came back home and tested the battery with my multi-meter. With car not running, it gave 12.38V. I waited for a few hours (3 to 4 hours) and tested again and the battery read 12.25V.
So my question is, could the inspection problem be really because of the battery? Second question is do I have a dead battery and I need to replace the battery with a new one and run the car again for 100 miles or so and then take it back for inspection?
Any help will be appreciated.
I own a 2001 RX 300. I haven't been driving it too much and it had expired inspection. One day I decided to renew the inspection. But when I tried to start it the battery was dead. So I jumped it using my other car and took it to the inspection guy. The vehicle failed inspection - 2 of the tests did not pass. The report said Catalyst: Not Ready and Evap: Not Ready.
The inspection guy told me that it could happen because of low battery. I told him that I had just jumped it. He said I should drive around for about 100 miles or so and then come back and it should be ok. So I drove it for about a week continuously and I did not have any problem with starting the car or something. However I did notice that the clock is always reset whenever I started the car.
Today I took it back to the inspection since it had been over 100 miles. He tested the vehicle immediately before starting the formal inspection process just to make sure it is ok (He used a hand-held device and hooked it up to somewhere under the dash board). And to my surprise he told me that the car is still giving two faults.
I came back home and tested the battery with my multi-meter. With car not running, it gave 12.38V. I waited for a few hours (3 to 4 hours) and tested again and the battery read 12.25V.
So my question is, could the inspection problem be really because of the battery? Second question is do I have a dead battery and I need to replace the battery with a new one and run the car again for 100 miles or so and then take it back for inspection?
Any help will be appreciated.
#3
Moderator
If you have been reading the forum, you would have picked up that by removing the battery terminal for a bit, you can reset your computer. For inspection, you want the computer to have recorded history, else it will say "not ready" for certain tests.
You need to tell us about the fail codes for the second time. It may or may not have to do with the battery. If he had "not ready", it means you need to drive some more or some how the ecu is getting reset.
Salim
You need to tell us about the fail codes for the second time. It may or may not have to do with the battery. If he had "not ready", it means you need to drive some more or some how the ecu is getting reset.
Salim
#4
Super Moderator
Let me know those codes.
Those readiness monitors (i.e., catalyst not ready, evap not ready) can be reset with about 15 minutes of driving, about 50% highway, 50% city.
Those readiness monitors (i.e., catalyst not ready, evap not ready) can be reset with about 15 minutes of driving, about 50% highway, 50% city.
#6
Failed inspection..what was the cause of the fail...emissions! High Hrdro carbons or CO? The Dio should reveal which BANK is the problem. You are running RICH and that means the gas is not converting into energy. Check your O2 sensors as well as you may have a vacuum leak. Did you have a tune up? Several causes of this problem....not easily fixed with one. Could even be wiring.
#7
As Privacy said, buy a new one.
BTW, the ONLY way to truely test a battery, once charged, is with a CARBON PILE load tester. It will put the actual load on the battery and reveal (quickly) a weak battery (or totally failing battery) that a universally used "conductance tester" won't. A multi-meter only gives you the voltage in the battery, the amperage you're able to actually get out (the only useable thing) is the important part and a multi-tester won't begin to tell you that.
Last edited by code58; 02-19-13 at 12:51 AM.
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