UofODucks

I will be replacing the valve cover gaskets this weekend. The thread about the bolt torque was helpful... 65in lbs... 5.75ft lbs. But I have not fond the tightening sequence anywhere. Dose anyone know what it is? Thanks

JAB

I don't think a 'tightening sequence' is particularly necessary, but if you insist, start in the middle and work your way to the ends, alternating as you go.

UofODucks

I have been experiencing a variety of codes. I have replaced the bank one A/F sensor. That code went away. Ran good for awhile then started to get misfire codes on bank one and bank 2, cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. (P0301, P0302, P0303,P0304, P0305, P0306). Do to the high miles on my RX, I decided to check the front and back CAT's, because the exhaust seemed to be trapped. All three CAT's were plugged and disintegrated to different degrees. So I replaced them. While replacing the back CAT, I notice that the back valve cover was not sealed to the head. After replacing the CAT's the even misfire codes went away, but continued with the odd codes. So here I am... I can't properly trouble shoot with such an obvious problem. I am assuming that the coils are not properly seated to the plugs, thus the misfire. However, do to the PAIN that it is getting to everything behind the intake, I will be changing the knock sensor, plugs, coils (front to back), coolant bi-pass hose, and PVC grommet and valve at the same time as I replace the valve cover gasket and plug seals. I tried to post a link from the thread below, that I found, but I failed. The video posted on this thread has been pulled from youtube. I was... well fortunate to see the video before it was pulled. The Toyota Tech does remove the wipers and the tray under the wipers, and gains access to some of the connectors and bolts behind the throttle body, a little easier. Even though the link below is referencing the task performed on a Camry, It was good to get eyes on some of the hidden components. I will be performing this job in the coming days on my RX300. I hope that it doesn't take more than 6 hours.THREAD: (Club Lexus Forums > Lexus Model Forums > ES Models > ES300 and ES330 sub heading V6 valve cover gasket replacement.). Note: When A job is a time consuming pain in the ***, it is worth it to pay extra for OEM parts.

JAB

Ducks: Where in Ohio are you? (I'm from Chagrin Falls.) I don't understand how the valve cover could come "unsealed" from the head, unless someone tried to work on it and gave up.

hotrodgirl

Definitely start with wiper arms, wiper linkage/motor and get that cowl and support bar outta the way. Makes life soooo much easier and doesn't take but 10 min to do.

aznlapin

I recently inherited a '02 AWD from my mother. It's been neglected for quite a bit since my mother is completely auto-ignorant. It has had only 2-4 oil changes done in the past 70,000 miles

So, right now I'm planning to to pull the front valve cover to see how bad it is inside. Trying to keep my fingers crossed after hearing that the 1mz-fe is a sludge monster.

I saw this thread for replacing the valve cover gasket on an ES300 with the same engine as well as been thru the knock sensor & valve cover gasket DIY on this forum. I want to pull just the front cover for now since the rear is a major PITA. What I want to know are two things:

1) Do I need to drain the coolant and/or oil to pull off the FRONT (Bank 2) valve cover?
I ask this specifically because I changed both within the past 1000miles.

2) What is the part number for the gasket set I should use? I found 3 on rockauto:
- FEL-PRO Part # VS50588R
- VICTOR REINZ Part # VS50406
- BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0361613
(any better and/or cheaper ones would be great too!)

PS: any extra advice is greatly appreciated! thanks!!

salimshah

Dont give the motor a shock and dont go about chasing ghosts.

If there is a problem only then diagnose and fix.

Start by doing fluid change [drain and fill only and no flush].

Salim

aznlapin

I wouldn't be worried normally if it didn't go from full to empty on the oil dipstick in 600 miles. Adding a quart brought it back to just above half way between the marks. Possible oil consumption with the M1 5w30? Don't think it's a leak, haven't spotted anything on the ground yet.

It's also putting out a lot of white smoke when I start it up. Not sure if this is due to the cold weather or I'm confusing it with blue smoke.

Already drained/filled PSF, coolant, oil and tranny was replaced not too long ago. Doing rear differential and transfer case in the next few days.

JAB

You do not need to drain oil or coolant in order to change either valve cover gasket.

aznlapin

Thanks!
What about the gasket P/N? Haven't checked what it costs at the dealer yet, will look into that to compare...

JAB

I got mine at RockAuto; a set included both front and rear valve cover gaskets (I don't recall whether they are identical or not) and 6 spark plug tube seals. Not terribly expensive and certainly not worth spending a lot of time to comparison shop. If your RX has a significant number of miles on it you will find it dificult if not impossible to remove the old spark plug tube seals.

salimshah

JAB:

Did you end up replacing the tubes or left the old one's in place? I heard that it is royal pain in Lexus vehicles.

Salim

JAB

Salim: What I ended up doing was replacing the entire rear valve cover with the 'new' version that accepts a screw-in PCV valve rather than the 'press-fit' plastic elbow of old. The new valve cover included pre-installed spark plug tube seals. I tried to change the seals in the front valve cover but gave up and reinstalled the valve cover with the old seals still in place. I figure that if they ever do leak it will be a simple enough job to replace the front valve cover with a new assembly.

tim73

I did this yesterday on a 2000 rx300, it was a little bit of a job. My advice, to anybody doing this, is to make sure that the rear valve cover gasket, doesnt roll, when you install it. Mine did that, and i didnt notice it until, i started the engine...and oil was just flowing out. The second time i did it, I made sure to add a little rtv, to help teh gasket stick to the valve cover. Then make sure they dont scrape over the cam gears and slip out of the valve cover groove(Thats what happened the first time). Plus, when I was done witht eh rear, I took an inspection mirror, and made sure the back gasket was fully seated. I also added a 5/16's washer to each valve cover bolt, that helped the bolt catch a little bit better.

Youll also need a e6 reverse torx bit(To remove the front wiring loom, theres two e6 studs) And finally youll need a 8mm hex socket to remove the two hex bolts. Also, i didnt drain the coolant system. Nor did i remove any of the coolant hoses from the throttle body(I just moved it to the side after I removed the three bolts holding it to the intake). I did take off the top radiator hose, but only a little bit of coolant leaked.

Also, 4 of the 6 spark plug tubes were filled with oil. Which was making the car run rough. This seemed to fix it, owner said it was running really good today.

salimshah

Did you do this as a favor or provided service for money? Either way it does not matter. We welcome you to Club Lexus.


Salim