RX300: Location of left OCV
#1
RX300: Location of left OCV
Needing some help. Got the P1354 code (along with extremely rough idle and iffy brakes once warm) and it seems to be the "left" OCV. Ordered one to install tomorrow...wondering where it is. I seem to be finding conflicting information regarding the location and don't want to install it in the wrong spot (if it would even fit in the wrong spot). Any help will be greatly appreciated!
#2
Pole Position
This attached pdf document should help you locate these parts. Be sure and pull the screens and clean them too. If you see signs of sludge your other OCV may not be far from failing also. Have you tried just cleaning your existing OCV's?
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David9336 (07-03-20)
#3
Wow...thanks for the info! So does LH refer to the "left" OCV? No, I haven't tried just cleaning them...frankly didn't know that was a possibility. Since I have 124K miles and have already ordered the part I guess I'll just replace it to be sure (and maybe do the other one while I'm at it?).
Regarding cleaning the screens, how does one do this? And are they easy to find in relation to the OCVs? Thanks again for your help. Before I started using this site I couldn't do anything to a car and I've been able to do several jobs and save a LOT of $$$ getting advice. Really cool.
Regarding cleaning the screens, how does one do this? And are they easy to find in relation to the OCVs? Thanks again for your help. Before I started using this site I couldn't do anything to a car and I've been able to do several jobs and save a LOT of $$$ getting advice. Really cool.
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David9336 (07-03-20)
#4
Pole Position
P1354 refers to Bank 2 which is closest to the radiator. I've attached a document I use to check mine. It has photos to show you how to access the OCV and screen. My 1999 RX300 has about 150K miles on it and the pictures show the screen, which was never pulled before. I have seen pictures of others screens that have black sludge on them and they had OCV problems so I'm assuming that is a good indicator of OCV problems. I have never had a problem and you can see how clean my screen was. I do oil/filter changes every 5k miles.
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David9336 (07-03-20)
#5
Killer...thanks for that as well! Is the other screen also easy to get to? Can I use MAF sensor cleaner on the screens?
Also, I'm still confused by left/right vs. Bank 1/Bank 2. This is the part I ordered: http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...FRRbnAod1WkAsA
Hoping this is the "Bank 2" one!
Also, I'm still confused by left/right vs. Bank 1/Bank 2. This is the part I ordered: http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...FRRbnAod1WkAsA
Hoping this is the "Bank 2" one!
#6
Pole Position
hoisted,
The reference documents I use don't use the terms left and right, they refer to Bank 1 (firewall side) and Bank 2 (radiator side). The trouble code in your first posting refers to Bank 2. If the Bank 1 OCV had failed you would get a different code. Looking at the part you ordered it appears that the "left" and "right" versions are mirror images of each other. I'm kind of surprised they didn't make them the same, but oh well. Perhaps someone else can jump in here and clarify if left = Bank 1 or Bank 2. Looks like they are not too expensive so if you have to order a "right" one, just stick them both in.
As far as cleaning the OCV and screens, I'd just use some mineral spirits and a toothbrush to clean them. Then dry them out. Soak the valve in engine oil before re-installing to make sure its thoroughly lubricated. The screen you can just stick back in.
The reference documents I use don't use the terms left and right, they refer to Bank 1 (firewall side) and Bank 2 (radiator side). The trouble code in your first posting refers to Bank 2. If the Bank 1 OCV had failed you would get a different code. Looking at the part you ordered it appears that the "left" and "right" versions are mirror images of each other. I'm kind of surprised they didn't make them the same, but oh well. Perhaps someone else can jump in here and clarify if left = Bank 1 or Bank 2. Looks like they are not too expensive so if you have to order a "right" one, just stick them both in.
As far as cleaning the OCV and screens, I'd just use some mineral spirits and a toothbrush to clean them. Then dry them out. Soak the valve in engine oil before re-installing to make sure its thoroughly lubricated. The screen you can just stick back in.
#7
Moderator
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#8
Thanks Salim! Another killer link with great pictures. (In case anyone reading this needs the info, the direct link is: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ement-diy.html). I wish the site where I bought the OCV would also use Bank 1&2 instead of left & right. I think I will just order the other one and do them both so I know I'm good.
#9
Pole Position
hoisted,
Note the difference between the oil screen in the DIY above and the picture I sent you. One looks all sludged up and mine looks like new after 150K miles. Oil is cheap, change it often!
Note the difference between the oil screen in the DIY above and the picture I sent you. One looks all sludged up and mine looks like new after 150K miles. Oil is cheap, change it often!
#10
Well...was able to replace the part and clean the screen. After a short test drive to fully warm the engine everything seems fine (no more wanting to shut off). Still need to reset the code to be sure. Luckily, once I removed the oil screen the oil looked nice and clean (totally free of sludge). Of course, that seems to eliminate the most likely reason for the part failing. Anyway, thanks again for the help, guys. Made the job really simple.
#13
I have one other question since you guys are knowledgeable (and I'm not!). I'm thinking of preemptively replacing the ignition coils since I see them failing for so many people. Is this a difficult job? Do you know of any tutorials for doing that job (and also for replacing the plugs)? Thanks again for your help. I think I'm starting to actually enjoy working on my car...and that's scary.
#14
Moderator
There are lot of preemptive stuff you can do. It is not going to be cheap. I hope that multiple coils dont fail at once (matter of odds) ... a v6 can limp along fine on 5 cylinders to a short time.
Plugs should be changes every 110K miles. Access to the plugs near the firewall is a pain.
We are all novices .. at least I claim to be an enthusiast and not a pro.
Salim
Plugs should be changes every 110K miles. Access to the plugs near the firewall is a pain.
We are all novices .. at least I claim to be an enthusiast and not a pro.
Salim
#15
Pole Position
hoisted,
Glad you are enjoying working on your car (and saving $ while doing it). This is a great place to learn and get help. If it were me, I'd save my time, money and enthusiasm for something that is actually broken or requires scheduled maintenance. A failed coil is not going to leave you stuck on the side of the road. You will probably get a misfire trouble code long before it quits alltogether so you will have plenty of time to get your parts to fix it.
Baetke
Glad you are enjoying working on your car (and saving $ while doing it). This is a great place to learn and get help. If it were me, I'd save my time, money and enthusiasm for something that is actually broken or requires scheduled maintenance. A failed coil is not going to leave you stuck on the side of the road. You will probably get a misfire trouble code long before it quits alltogether so you will have plenty of time to get your parts to fix it.
Baetke