salimshah

Think of the engine as horse .. the main pulley as its head. As you ride the horse your right is the engine's right and so on. #1 cylinder is typically the first right. [I am sure some will find a case to prove me wrong ...] Any VDub owner .. with an *** backword engine?

Transverse mounted engine make it difficult to keep track.

Salim

salimshah

Excellent advice... remember vehicles are meant to be driven and enjoyed. An old friend of mine used to remind me that machines are there to serve humans.

Salim

hoisted

Hey guys. Well, bad news. After a day of running fine I had the same problem just now: CEL, engine almost shutting off, brakes iffy. Now I'm getting all these codes: P1354 (just like before), P1349, P0300, P0302, P0304, and P0304. Any thoughts? Thanks again.

Baetke

You listed P0304 twice. Did you mean P0306? That would be consistent with the other codes.

hoisted

Yes, sorry. P0306 (along with 300, 302, and 304).

Leines

I had very similar issues, but i replaced both OCV with brand new ones and i havent had an issues for about 15,000kms since then.....

Cheers

Baetke

Ok, All of those trouble codes (except 1349) are common to Bank 2.

P1354 = VVT System Malfunction Bank 2
P0300 = Random Multiple Misfire Detected (caused by P0302, P0304, P0306)
P0302 = Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected (Bank 2)
P0304 = Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected (Bank 2)
P0306 = Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected (Bank 2)

When a P0300 is set, the ECU sets the ignition timing to full retard (fail safe mode). I don't know if this could then cause the P1349 = VVT System Malfunction Bank 1 to be set but I kind of think that one might be a red herring.

The next places I would look are the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the VVT controller.
Big caveat here. I have NO experience with this problem myself. Just trying to use the data at hand and logic to figure it out so if anyone has actually had this problem and fixed it, PLEASE JUMP IN.

I remember reading somewhere that you could test the VVT controller and OCV by disconnecting the electrical connector on the OCV. The idle would either go up or down, I don't remember which or how much but that would be a good test if we can find the original reference. Anyone?

hoisted

Thanks for the info. Since I had already order the back (right) OCV I figured I'd go ahead and replace that to see if that was the trouble. Then I created a new problem. I DROPPED the 14mm filter bolt. Maybe I was going about it the wrong way, but I just couldn't maintain a good hold on that sucker. In my head I was yelling "Don't drop it!" but down she went. I'm having someone bring me over a magnetic retriever, but I can't even see it. Assuming I can't retrieve it, any thoughts on the best place to order one and get it quickly? As far as that back filter, how do you get it out without risking also dropping it? My hands are relatively small and I just can't find a position to pinch it well. So frustrating!

Baetke

If you're having trouble figuring out where the nut landed try this trick.
Tie a piece of thread or very light string to a heavy nut and drop it from the same place you dropped the first nut while hanging on to the other end of the string. The nut will likely land very close to the first one and you can just follow the string to find it. It's worked for me several times.

hoisted

OK. Buddy brought over several retrievers and one of them finally did the trick to find the nut. I coaxed my (very petite) wife into removing the rear filter for me and (for good measure) got her to start the nut. I cleared all the codes and went for a drive to fully warm up the engine. So far so good. It's idling quite nice. I guess I'll know more with extended driving tomorrow.

BTW, does anyone have an opinion on these?
I was thinking of changing both the plugs and these when I have a buddy (who has more experience) visit in a couple months. They seem to too cheap. Any thoughts? (I know you guys recommended waiting until they act up but I'm considering using my buddies skills while they are available!)

hypervish

I wouldn't replace the coils if they aren't throwing a code. At 193k miles I'm still on my original coils. If you really must then maybe replace only the hard to reach one's while you are doing the plugs.