mshumack

I'm at 97,000 now and planning to replace my belt, water pump, idlers, tensioner, and seals in the next couple of days/weeks. I already bought all the parts. I got the Gates TCKWP257 kit,
Gates is a quality brand that I trust and have used many times in the past. I would not go to the discount auto parts store (i.e. AutoZone, Advanced, etc.) and buy any of their no-name, least-expensive parts.

salimshah

RX is Lexus/Toyota VVTi and is interfering in nature. Depending on where the vvti is, you can get valve/piston damage. Please see the special precaution mentioned in timing belt change ... advancing from TDC to prevent valve to piston contact.

Your personal experience, does not make it a universal fact. There was some publication in the past that stated RX300 engine to be non-interfering and occasional we get posts which keeps perpetuating the wrong info.

Salim

salimshah

Please do your research, consensus here is to use Mitsuboshi belt. They also come with markings to help installation. This does not mean your selection is bad.

Salim

mshumack

Gates has the marks too.

thomas1

Go on Ebay and pick up entire kit for cheap with Mitsoboshi and Koyo Bearings, and Aisin Water pump...Should be able to get all for under $160....

AKBimmer

I tried to replace my timing belt, I got the aisan kit from Amazon since the free shipping to Alaska made it the cheapest option.

I ran into a problem where I could not get the crank nut off no mater how much force I put on it, even using a breaker bar and an pole over the end of the breaker bar. it actually dented the extention pole. I even borrowed a friends professional air gun (better than my home grade one) and it didn't budge. So I'm stuck until I can figure out how to get that crank nut loose.

mshumack

What did you use to keep the crank from turning while you tried to break the nut loose?
You may want to get one of these: http://www.tooltopia.com/schley-6430...FeJF7AodLQYAuw

You may try some heat on the bolt head. Sometimes people put Loctite (e.g. red #271) on threads and it needs to be heated to return to liquid state.

salimshah

A member was kind enough to post a way to construct a jig. Two holes to pass bolts to the 2 holes on the main pulley and a large hole to pass the socket for the bolt. I had a scrap metal piece and all it took was 5 minutes at the drill press.

The other method is to lock the cheater bar and use the starter to pulse. [I prefer the tool as the tool helps in torqing at the end]

Salim

carguy07

I hate doing this, but it has always done the trick for me.

AKBimmer

I used a rachet strap looped around the pully so it would tighten up when torque was applied and secured to the subframe, it wasn't slipping at all. I just can't get the actual nut to break loose. I have a feeling it has been replaced at some point and the shop used a monster torque gun to rachet it back on maybe they used the red locktite....who knows.

I'll tackle it again soon, I think I'll get that tool, and use heat next time and give it another go.

salimshah

I never do a job without a torque wrench ... yes there are places where I cant get a torque wrench in, but if I can I do.

Just in case you are wondering .. the threads are normal ,,, cckwise to undo. If your jig to hold is not slipping .. dont waste money on the tool. I would heat it a whack it a bit and only use 6pt socket.

Salim

AKBimmer

I too use a torque wrench, I even have an inch pound one for those aluminium bolts on the head of my BMW...

The strap was kind of a pain to use and I worry about putting off angle pressure on the pully and bending something since this strap has to be really tight and I can't find a solid pull point in a direct straight line with the pulley for it not to slip.

It turns out I know a Lexus Tech through the local tuner club (I didn't know he worked for Lexus until I bought one), so maybe I'll be able to borrow a hold down tool. He says they use a 3/4 inch breaker with the socket welded on to it to break those loose. they also have a lift so leverage to pull on it is probably better too... He said to let him know when I was going to try again.

I really want to get back on this project, it doesn't look that hard to do once you get the nut loose. Although my My BMW M20 motor is even easier that this one to do, only one cam to make sure everything is lined up right and you can do it from the front....Removing the backwards opening hood and reinstalling it is the hardest part...

jerwong

I changed my timing belt and water pump a little late. I had stopped going to the dealer after my extended warranty expired and had forgotten about my timing belt. By the time my mechanic reminded me, it was already past 120,000. I had both replaced. The belt that came out looked old but it was still in good condition.

salimshah

Can you take it to a mechanic to break the bind? Torque it back to about 100ft-lb and come home.

Salim

JAB

I have been following this forum for several years and I don't recall anyone experiencing a broken timing belt, and some have gone past 200K miles without a change. Have I missed any? I'm at about 110K since the last change and not rushing out to get it done, although I will in the near future.