JAB

At 210K my 1999 RX300 is overdue for its 2nd timing belt service. My independent mechanic has quoted me $875 for the job using OE parts. However, cash is limited and other areas of the car are demanding attention: air mix servo, valve cover leaks, door lock, etc. How ill-advised would it be to simply ask him to change the timing belt and skip the other aspects of the job? How much would I likely save? TIA

salimshah

Please explain/expand what exactly would be done for $875.
t-belt
ideller
tensioner
water pump
Oil-seals for cams
Crank-shaft front oil seal

Coolant
Oil
V-belts.

Also what was or was not replaced at 90k

Door lock and air-servo are comfort things.

Salim

JAB

All of the above, although oil was recently changed.

90K service was comprehensive, so all of the above.

saudiboy

I'm scared now because I don't know if I have ever had my timing belt done (unless it would have been done in connection with the transmission replacement).

Salim, are all of the things you listed, the things that need to be done in connection with the timing belt service?

Also, are we allowed to ask for/give recommendations for mechanics? I'm in Los Angeles and would prefer not to have to go to Lexus for this service.

salimshah

I am always confused when people talk about t-belt change and quote 300 to 1200 for service and I prefer to see the cost broken down to actual parts and labor. The dealer also performs other service(s) that can increase the bill.

For me, the T-belt change should be the belt only. Idellers, tensioner, water-pump, seals should be inspection items and changed only if needed.

For my 90k service, t-belt and ideller were the only things that got replaced. For 180k service, I would most likely replace the tensioner, water-pump and the t-belt. Ideller and seals would be inspection based replacement items. I expect 200k from water-pump. I might even do preemptive ideller change (the original lasted only 90k.

That would be my course of action.

Vbelts, lock and servo can be done when more cash is available.

Salim

lexrally

Hey Forum
I just reached the 90K mile mark, and have a quote from the Toyota dealer for the 90K service:
water pump kit 122
timing belt 76
vane pump belt 8
v-ribbed belt 31
antifreeze 29.41
labor 379
parts 265

total 685


Additionally, I can have the seals replaced on the cams and crankshaft for an addiitonal $190
Also the thermostat,hoses, etc etc etc.

Or, I can just get the timing belt only for a total of $389.

I am thinking it if it ain't broke, dont fix it, the only thing I need is to replace the timing belt so the engine
does not get damaged if it breaks. True I can save a little by doing it all at the same time, but it seems
to me all the other stuff will last well past 90K, is this a reasonable assumption?

lexrally

Also, I should mention, I just replacedall the drive belts and coolant recently, so I do not need those items.

artbuc

Problem is that you can not predict imminent failure with inspection.

salimshah

True but on the flip side, one can premptively change things which can last another 90k miles.

Jab and others can decide where to draw a line. Some change water pump every 90k miles and some change the T-belt every 120k miles.

I can only suggest what I would do.

Salim

salimshah

Here are my thoughts on replacement of various things related to t-belt on RX300. Please note these are just my suggestions and there is no long-term analysis done by me, People should consult Lexus.

T-belt 95kmiles
water pump 190k miles (using Toyota coolant)
ideller 95k
tensioner & tensioner roller 190k
Cam seals 190k

Salim

saudiboy

If you don't tend to the T-belt (and there's no way to know whether failure is imminent, right?), you could blow up your engine.

But what about these other items? Could their failure cause significant damage? Would there be any warning before that damage occurred?

salimshah

A torn belt will lead to interference of valves and piston.

Some of the other items may or may not cause catastrophic failure. In case of leaks (seal and pump), the down side is additional labor. You can get into more serious trouble if the tensioner fails or ideller, you may loose the belt. If the water pump seizes up, you can mess up the belt.

My ideller started squeeling and it was noisy, shortly before 90k miles.

Salim

trips1

The biggest problem that i guess most of the people run into is when the mechanic (dealership or independent) says that all of the above items are not in good condition and should be replaced.
If the car is at the dealership then one does not even get to see if the parts are really bad or not.
I am just wondering if even asking for the replaced part is helpful or not as they can always be broken manually.
Or may be i am too skeptical of auto mechanic industry

artbuc

Agree except tensioner pulley (not the hydraulic cylinder) should also be replaced at 95k by the same logic that you would replace the idler at 95k. As Code58 has pointed out, these bearing are running dry by 95k miles. Also, I would not replace the hydraulic tensioner piston ever unless it was leaking oil.

salimshah

Other than the visual check on the hydraulic tensioner pin, one must do the test ... specified in the service manual.

Talking about dealership and major shops, they have to deal with many other issues.
1. Up selling to maximize profit and keep their staff, mechanics, parts etc in business.
2. Handling customers perception. This is where a DIY would most likely take the risk and not do all. The shops tend to reduce risk of return irate customers by doing more than necessary. Lately the shops try to put the burden on customers by saying we recommend these changes.

Salim