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VVT Solenoid (OCV) Replacement DIY

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Old 05-06-13, 06:20 AM   #46
hypervish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfc View Post
Well I am about to give up on uploading pics as I did something wrong a lost a lengthy description and have tried numerous times to add multiple pictures but only one loads...??? I am sure all user induced. But anyway it's out new one is in now for reconnecting everything and seeing if the old girl will start and run properly.

Thanks for everyone's inputs! So how many of us really had to take the darn thing out? I will also be replacing filters and O-rings front and back. I am at this time not inspired to take out the rear OCV since my error code was only a 1354 pointing to the front one.
IF you want, you can email me the pictures and I can upload them on this thread. If you would like to do so, just send me a PM asking for my email.
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Old 06-01-13, 01:43 PM   #47
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Thanks so much for this DIY, I took my car to the dealer for the above symptoms, paid $160 for diagnostics and they still couldn't figure it out. Apparently they got different CEL codes at the time than when I did it.

But now I'm stuck on step 4, thankfully everything until this point was relatively easy.

But how do you get clearance to remove the filter retaining bolt? I can't figure out what other pipes to remove.
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Old 09-25-13, 02:59 PM   #48
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Default Updates on Toyota Part Number for OCV / VTTi...

---- Front or Left (near Radiator) :Old Part 15340-20010 = New 15340-0A010 (Made in Mexico) = 15340-20011 (Made in Japan) (Interchangeable) . Dorman part #: 917-211


---- Rear or Right (near firewall or windshield: Old Part 15330-20010 = New 15330-0A010 (Made in Mexico) = 15330-20011 (Made in Japan) (Interchangeable). Dorman part #: 917-214

For verification: I bought 15340-0A010 from local toyota dealer and installed it myself 9 months ago. I just bought 15330-20011 online and installed it couple week ago. No issues since.

Description for this can be varied:
- VVTi Control Valve
- Valve Assy, Oil Flow Ctl
- CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE
- Valve Assy, CAM
- Oil Control Valve Solenoid
- Engine Variable Timing Solenoid
- ect...but all the same...

Go with the Part Number...not the description... Hope this helps!!!
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Old 10-12-13, 08:57 AM   #49
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Thank You bears I am having the same problem with my es300 I ordered parts in and will be installing myself tomorrow. This thread is very helpful. Did anyone who had this problem also have a knock sensor issue I already replaced both and was wondering if the vvt going bad could set a knock code?
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Old 10-15-13, 12:02 PM   #50
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P1349 error today. low throaty rumbling idle. reset. drove again, light came on while in traffic again throaty rumbling idle.

Said they saw both open and close, but clearly one is going bad/is bad and is sticking open causing my issues.

Mechanic is going to quote and have part tmrw, and says i should be good to drive home, even with the throttle cutting out (because of valve sticking open).

Anyone have this issue and then ended up dead on the road or in safe mode?

i have a few hills to climb on my half hour drive home on highways, just wondering if i'm cool to drive home and not sleep at work today.

if anyone sees this, let me know!!!
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Old 12-06-13, 01:56 PM   #51
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I just made an account so I could come post a big THANK YOU for posting this thread. I generally know zilch about cars, and I bought a '99 ES300 off of a friend 6 months back (my first car in ~8 years). I bought a diagnostic computer when I got the car, hoping I could try and fix any future problems I had with it by myself. When "Lexy" started experiencing all the problems associated with a P1354 error, I pulled the code (as well as misfires on cylinders 2, 4, & 6) and found clublexus and this thread. I immediately ordered the part off of ebay for $36.

I just completed the replacement of the rear solenoid, took my girl out for a spin, and she's running as smoothly as ever again!! I am so happy I just saved myself probably hundreds of dollars with a little googling and a diagnostic cpu.

Again, thank you so much for posting this DIY!! It worked perfectly for me!! THANK YOU!
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Old 12-07-13, 08:58 AM   #52
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Welecome to CL and thanks for sharing your success story. Hopefully it will inspire others to join the rank of DIY'ers as you were.
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Old 12-09-13, 12:54 PM   #53
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EDIT: I just realized the instruction is for RX300, not ES300, it seems it is much easier for RX300 since there are plenty of room, any tips on how to remove BANK2 OCV for 99 ES300? there is very limited room in there, many hoses blocking the way for both BANK2 AND BANK1 OCV.


thanks for the writeup!

For bank2 (near rad) I am stuck at step 3:

1. for me the electric connector is stuck to the OCV, I tried to press the little plastic pin hoping it will release the lock to the OCV but I can not pull it off at all, actually it is not moving at all. Shall I try some WD-40? I don't want to destroy the electric connector which goes to the engine/computer.

2. I tried to pull out the OCV out *with* the electric connector on, the connector is not blocking, but there is a black hose which stand in the way when the OCV almost come out, maybe another 3 or 4mm room will do the trick but I simply cannot move that hose to make any room for OCV, how did you guys make room for the OCV?

3. How do you reach the OCV filter close to tranny? It seems impossible to reach or remove without a proper tool for es300.

Thanks!

Last edited by mlgbwk; 12-09-13 at 12:58 PM..
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Old 12-09-13, 01:02 PM   #54
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Make sure you disconnect the battery.

You need it disconnected to do any thing so leave the valve in the hole till you have it separated. Try to push the connecter in as well to break the seal.

You can use wd/40 sparingly, remember to spray clean with a cleaner made for electrical connections and dry it before reconnecting the battery.

Patience and persistence will pay off.

Salim
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Old 12-09-13, 01:20 PM   #55
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Thanks Salim! Let me try it and use more patience. I am afraid i will have to loose one or two hoses although I don't know what they are for and whether they are safe to remove and reconnect...

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Originally Posted by salimshah View Post
Make sure you disconnect the battery.

You need it disconnected to do any thing so leave the valve in the hole till you have it separated. Try to push the connecter in as well to break the seal.

You can use wd/40 sparingly, remember to spray clean with a cleaner made for electrical connections and dry it before reconnecting the battery.

Patience and persistence will pay off.

Salim
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Old 12-17-13, 03:41 PM   #56
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Thank you for the great instructions - I replaced both today.

Does anyone know the part number of the electrical connection? I broke the tab on the rear connector - it seats okay but doesn't completely lock into place

Thanks!

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Old 12-17-13, 04:31 PM   #57
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I would zip-tie it.

You may have to loop 2 or 3 ties to form a chain link. Intent would be that the connector does not slip off (wires can not be pulled away from the sensor).

Salim
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Old 12-25-13, 02:22 PM   #58
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I have a 2000 ES300 and pull a code P1349. P301, P0303, and P0305. I went to Auto part store and get a VVT solenoid. Have it replace. Problem solved.

Thank you for the post and pictures.

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Old 01-09-14, 01:31 PM   #59
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Installed this morning, can't wipe the grin off my face because I was about to sell my RX for $1500...should be getting much more now!
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Old 01-13-14, 10:34 AM   #60
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Great to hear... Together we can keep our RXs running far more cheaply!
I'm going to be searching for a DIY for the Bank 2 Sensor 1, myself... just need to see where it's at and what it's going to take
Here's to doing it yourself and KNOWING it's done right!

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Old 01-13-14, 10:34 AM
 
 
 
 
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control, engine lag, lexus, no overdrive, ocv, oil, p1354, price, rx300, solenoid, timing, valve, variable, vvt, vvt solenoid

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