RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

What the heck is this?

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Old 07-30-12, 04:20 PM
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bgross88
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Default What the heck is this?

Okay, here is a good one for you all. Took my 2000 RX 300 in for inspection today. All they did was replace a side marker, and a license plate bulb. They drove it around back and let it sit until I picked it up. When I got there, it would start..and that's it. Started perfectly every time I cranked it. But no lights, turn signals, instruments, windows--nothing. And it wouldn't go into gear.

Checked a few fuses..all were fine. Pulled the battery cable..let it sit for 2 mins. BLAM...everything works perfectly.

Ran it home, and it's still fine. WTH would cause that? If they didn't drive it out of the garage bay, I would at least say it was directly related to something they did. But since they were able to start and move it, I'm at a loss.

Also, the battery is only 6 months old-but doubt it's that since it started fine.

I tried searching, but to be honest, really wasn't even sure what to search on!

All is well now, but am curious as to this board's thoughts!

Thanks.
Old 07-30-12, 04:30 PM
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IndyRX300
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Maybe just an electrical gremlin??? That is weird.
Old 07-30-12, 04:55 PM
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hypervish
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Usually when something weird happens like that, it's the battery. But you said it's pretty much new. But keep in mind, that doesn't mean it can't be bad, there are defective units.

I say don't worry about it for now, if it happens again, then get the battery tested.
Old 08-21-12, 05:58 PM
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bgross88
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So, after 3 weeks of being 100% fine, my RX300 did the exact same thing as I mentioned in the original post. I will get the battery tested tomorrow, but if anyone has further suggestions, I am all ears at this point!
Old 08-21-12, 06:09 PM
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salimshah
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It can be the solenoid.

Salim
Old 08-21-12, 06:38 PM
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bgross88
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Thanks, Salim. I will get it checked out tomorrow and report back.

Got to thinking..are you referring to the starter solenoid? The car starts fine, there are no gauges, no radio/computer functions, no power windows, and I can't get it out of park. Just to reclarify...

Last edited by bgross88; 08-21-12 at 06:44 PM.
Old 08-21-12, 07:58 PM
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I think you're right. Sometimes a bad solenoid doesn't need much to coax a few more starts out of it. Like maybe connecting and disconnecting the battery. Or maybe the battery connections but probably the solenoid.
Originally Posted by salimshah
It can be the solenoid.

Salim
Old 08-22-12, 11:47 AM
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bgross88
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Well, I am even more confused than ever. Got the it to start with everything working correctly, simply by pulling both cables, and cleaning terminals. Went to Advance for test..battery/starter/alternator all checked out good. Got it home..parked it in driveway(STUPID!!!!!!), and 45 mins later, same thing. Cranks everytime..no power accessories, won't go into gear.

So I called the dealer I bought it from, and got a very helpful service adviser on the phone for 20 mins. By the end of the call, he said he "has no idea'". Boy, is that every comforting!!!

I REALLY don't want to take it to the dealership for service, but at this point, I'm not sure I have a choice.
Old 08-22-12, 12:08 PM
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It sounds like you may have a bad terminal connection from the battery to the main power junction with that cable. If the neutral safety switch doesn't see that the car is in park (or N), it won't allow the car to move, but not having gauges etc. means that it's more than just the NSS. I also don't think it's just a solenoid issue because the starter solenoid doesn't control gauges or anything electrical.

If the battery checks out, I would replace that cable (they're about $140 IIRC), and see what that does.

Big Mack
Old 08-22-12, 12:44 PM
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bgross88
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Thanks, Mack. I was able to get the car into gear by using the lockout override button..drives like a champ..at least it's in my garage now.

Still no electrical "stuff"....I think I may replace both battery cables, and go from there.
Old 08-22-12, 03:58 PM
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bgross88
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One more update...it's something in the instrument cluster/dash. Long story short...after digging around all day, was under the dash, and all the power came back on. Flickered, and stayed on.

So, there is something under there that controls the power distribution to the entire vehicle. Is the PCM/ECM there, or in the engine bay? Still not sure how to properly diagnosis/fix the issue, but for now, it seems like I can play Fonzie, smack the dash if it happens again, and all is well.
Old 08-22-12, 06:51 PM
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hypervish
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Originally Posted by bgross88
One more update...it's something in the instrument cluster/dash. Long story short...after digging around all day, was under the dash, and all the power came back on. Flickered, and stayed on.

So, there is something under there that controls the power distribution to the entire vehicle. Is the PCM/ECM there, or in the engine bay? Still not sure how to properly diagnosis/fix the issue, but for now, it seems like I can play Fonzie, smack the dash if it happens again, and all is well.
The following is somewhat unrelated as it doesn't have to do with the RX so feel free to skip over it, but it is similar to the issue you are experiencing.

The 3rd generation chrysler/dodge minivans, such as the one I used to own, had an issue in the instrument cluster with a bad solder joint. SO, sometimes the car wouldn't start and if it did none of the gauges or anything worked. One or two smacks on the cluster fixed the issue. The real fix was to open the cluster up and touch up all of the solder joints, which I had to do twice. The first time the vehicle would run, but no gauges would work. Then two years later the car wouldn't start so the mechanic diagnosed it as a bad fuel pump cost me over $400 to replace and then still same problem. I was so frustrated at one point that I started slamming the dashboard and guess what, it frickin' came alive. LOL, so then once again I went in and fixed the solder joints. All was well after that.
Old 08-23-12, 08:14 AM
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salimshah
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Originally Posted by bgross88
One more update...it's something in the instrument cluster/dash. Long story short...after digging around all day, was under the dash, and all the power came back on. Flickered, and stayed on.

So, there is something under there that controls the power distribution to the entire vehicle. Is the PCM/ECM there, or in the engine bay? Still not sure how to properly diagnosis/fix the issue, but for now, it seems like I can play Fonzie, smack the dash if it happens again, and all is well.
Dont assume your assumption is correct. You can have power all over the vehicle, but the power to your cluster and solenoid activator wire could be dead and that makes you think there is no power everywhere. [the starter gets power directly from the battery].

Salim
Old 08-23-12, 09:41 AM
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bgross88
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Dont assume your assumption is correct. You can have power all over the vehicle, but the power to your cluster and solenoid activator wire could be dead and that makes you think there is no power everywhere. [the starter gets power directly from the battery].

Salim
Forgive the rather obvious questions,but if the solenoid was bad/dead/without power...the car would not start, correct? Mine starts every time, without fail.

Or does the solenoid provide power to everything else...

Apologies if that's an obvious answer..fairly new to the Lexus world, and how they have things designed.

And as always, I appreciate everyone's help!!
Old 08-23-12, 04:21 PM
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salimshah
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Originally Posted by bgross88
Forgive the rather obvious questions,but if the solenoid was bad/dead/without power...the car would not start, correct? Mine starts every time, without fail.

Or does the solenoid provide power to everything else...

Apologies if that's an obvious answer..fairly new to the Lexus world, and how they have things designed.

And as always, I appreciate everyone's help!!
Please ignore my post about solenoid ... your problem seems to killing the +12v to the brake-switch and that would explain the transmission lockout.

So how can it be diagnosed? You need to record all that is not working and then a tech has to look at the wiring diagram and figure where the voltage is disappearing. You can also set test points based on the way the vehicle is wired.

If you have to pay some one, you have to consider pay higher hourly rate to a more skilled person.

Salim


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