Lexmex

That's possible if some of it broke off. The only whey I would approach it, so that nothing gets royally screwed up, would be to open up from the inside like I did in this DIY and see what's amiss, because it should normally just grab a hold of it and take the new one in.

hypervish

I took it apart once to get out the old cable and didn't see anything wrong. But I wasn't really looking for anything specifically. I'll open it up again tomorrow, as it's about -7F here right now with windchill.

Do you remember seeing anything if you peered down where the antenna goes from the outside?

I'm trying to figure out if it's the old cable from the antenna or just the gear for the motor.

Thanks

Lexmex

Because I had everything open in there at the time (from the inside) it wouldn't look the same down the hole as you had it (had more light there). If I hadn't open it up the way I did and had the issue you are describing, I probably would have taken some coat hanger wire and stuck it down there carefully in the middle of the hole to see if there was anything near the supposed area of blockage.

hypervish

There was in fact many small pieces of the old antenna nylon cord stuck in the vertical tube.

I had to pull apart the motor, and the gears and stick the new antenna in backwards and try and push out some of the old cord. Got most of the major pieces out and I believe there is still one small piece left inside. But no matter ho hard i tried, I could not get it out. Spend nearly an hour just trying to get it out.

But, luckily the new antenna mast is working. I left that tiny piece in there, and it worked. Hopefully that piece doesn't cause me any trouble down the road. I waited 6 years to fix this antenna, who knows how long i'll wait if it breaks again! lol

Also, I broke the water drain tube trying to get it off. So it's now barely attached, but don't think it will be an issue as the new antenna has new gaskets on it.

boxbrownie

Not sure if its been said before but although using WD-40 (or such like) on the metal antenna will help the power action for a while, the actual WD-40 oil will find its way down the antenna sections into the base where the nylon cogged section resides, WD-40 is not recommended for use on plastics (even though the official WD-40 site says it OK, it is petroleum based and will over time enter the material and degrade it) and nylon components and will eventually harden and degrade the material just making the problem worse and the antenna harder for the motor to move.

Best to use a lubricant that is recommended for plastics as it will not affect the metal portion of the antenna at all (apart from cleaning and lubricatiing it).

It would be a shame if people go to all the trouble of replacing the antenna section just to lubricate it before use with WD-40 or another oil based lubricant which will start the process all over again.

White plastic grease in the aerial mechanism itself, and something like a switch cleaner/lubricant for plastic on the antenna mast should be enough.

RX469

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up and information on this.

phillyjohn

Great thread, you made the job easy with your step by step instructions

Thank you

Mut

Boy, it was a bit of a pain in the *** to get to the motor but replacing the actual antenna was super easy. Great guide.

jerwong

Thank you for the write up and for the detailed photos. I finally got around to doing this and my antenna works again. Just a few thoughts:

1. Consider wearing long sleeves, gloves, and possibly a mask and goggles. On the other side of that carpeted trim is fiberglass and not only will it scratch you, it will also make your skin itch for a while. I'm sure there are other health risks associated with prolonged contact.

2. I had several broken pieces that jammed the inside of the metal mast. I couldn't actually disconnect the bottom cable to remove the entire motor assembly because the opposite end went somewhere underneath my navigation unit and I didn't feel like disassembling that too. I was, however, able to twist off the metal mast and jam the old cable in and out repeatedly to clear it.

3. Be wary of counterfeits. I purchased a replacement mast that for $20 claimed to be OEM but was clearly just a knockoff (not surprising). It broke as soon as I installed it. It also would not retract the antenna all the way. I ended up going down to Longo Lexus and buying another unit for $88 plus tax. Sewell would have been $57.11 + $12.05 standard shipping = $69.16. I didn't want to wait as my car was already disassembled at this point.

JoshRX300

Anybody found an after market, short rubber antenna that adds range? My antenna is not going down all the way but is still functional, even the the reception could be better.

maorsela

Excellent DIY, as always!

Here's my story:

For a while, the antenna would make a grinding noise and will not fully extend (3/4 of the way). It would retract all the way though.

Bought this antenna replacement:
Came to install it just now, at first I thought it has to have a piece broken, stuck in the motor. I compared the two antennas and they appeared to have the same length of the white cable.

I opened up the side, got to the motor, opened it, but could not see any broken pieces. It was still lubricated pretty good, so I just put everything back together, fastened the antenna bay screw, and operated the radio.

The antenna doesn't make any more grinding noises, and it fully extends and retracts. I'm happy, an easy fix worth $20! Took maybe 40 minutes.

wing0

I feel defeated...

Did everything according to this DIY, but when I try to pull the mast out, it just wouldn't budge.
My antenna is locked in the fully up position right now so it makes it very hard to pull it out from the inside. After struggling with it for what seemed an eternity and even after spraying with PB blaster.
I gave up and put everything back together minus connecting the cable to the motor since it's not doing anything to the antenna anymore(maybe it'll save the motor in the long run).

Can the mast be corroded inside?

salimshah

Corrosion is less likely.

The tip is bonded with the nylon cable.

Once you remove the crown nut the mast can come out provided the cable is released. The cable gets released by the catching mechanism by over spinning the motor [when you hold buttons].

I would verify the crown nut has been removed.

You may have to reconnect the motor and do the over spinning ... this time listen to the motor and verify that it spins when you hold the buttons.

If the above fail to produce results then something is binding the release of cable or the cable is stuck or the mast has a kink that is preventing up/down movement. If I am in that situation, I would conclude that I have to destroy the mast. Since it is almost impossible to take the assembly out with the mast extended, I would snip the mast [protect the paint]. Then take out the motor assembly and disassemble it. Take photos to help you reassemble.

Make your choice of replacing the whole thing or just the mast, based on what you find inside. If there is damage, then dont waste money on just the mast as pretty soon you will be at square one.

Salim

wing0

Isn't this the crown nut?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/media/20...01.466324/full

I was contemplating on disassembling the motor to see where the cable was.
I always thought that if the mast is stuck in the extended position that it's the teeth on lower part of the cable that broke so I would've expect the mast to be easy to pull out.

I put everything back the way it used to be for the time being...not sure when I will tackle it again.
Although I did disconnect the power to the motor just save the motor a bit.

salimshah

Yes!

After removing the crown nut and letting the motor over-run to release the nylon the mast should fall off. Since it is not coming out, either you are not pulling hard enough or something is binding (crooked mast segment, nylon cable etc. Snips will enable you to set if free to then disassemble the motor assembly.

Salim