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DIY: Lubricating the brake slide pins and replacing rubber dust boots

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Old 06-18-13, 07:18 AM
  #31  
Lexmex
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Originally Posted by bagsbie
Yes, I am going to pick the seal and the ring this week and replace it asap. Is it more difficult to pick the old boot/seal out if the piston is depressed all the way due to new pads or it should not really matter that much?
Well generally when it is depressed it is more difficult, but at the end of the day once it is out, it is out in terms of the seal.
Old 04-06-14, 03:46 PM
  #32  
gazi001
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Thanks Lexmex for nice DIY. I did rear calipers today. If the caliper piston depressed you could press the brake pad few times with put one brake pad in the rotor next to piston and sit the caliper and it will come out easily.
Old 08-15-15, 06:30 PM
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cheerio3
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I was replacing my front pads today, I had a torn caliper piston dust boot. Can anyone help me find the part that I would need to replace that dust boot? I have searched online and have not been able to find the product. Thanks!
Old 08-15-15, 07:24 PM
  #34  
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Edit, posted wrong part.

Last edited by carguy07; 08-16-15 at 01:57 PM.
Old 08-16-15, 05:28 AM
  #35  
cheerio3
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Is that the boot that goes on the piston? Pictured here?

Would that be this product?

http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...32735_0_15751/
Attached Thumbnails DIY: Lubricating the brake slide pins and replacing rubber dust boots-img_2957.jpg  

Last edited by cheerio3; 08-16-15 at 05:35 AM.
Old 08-16-15, 02:01 PM
  #36  
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Sorry, I posted a link to the boots for the slides. You found the right part in your link.
Old 02-03-16, 12:42 AM
  #37  
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in #14 does the pin just pop out using a c clamp? i looked at it and couldn't see how it's connected. i also noticed a tear in the material protecting the hose attached to the caliper. it's very tight back there and when lifting the caliper up the hose would be in the way. when removing the caliper by pulling it away from the pin, i had to pull on the hose with significant tension to be able to take the caliper off the pin because the hose was so short. i don't know why it's so tight but i thought the hose was supposed to be very fragile? it was even harder putting it back over the pin.

do you guys think it's necessary to get new disc hardware? mine are rusted and i'm 50/50 on replacing them.
Old 02-03-16, 02:56 AM
  #38  
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The slide will pop out, but if it's frozen you will need some force. I was just holding the caliper and smacking it with a hammer to break it free for a long time. I recent;y broke down and just replaced the calipers. If there is anything that resembles a tear in the flexible brake hose, replace it asap. Brake hardware needs to be rust free for the pads to move properly. They should be stainless steel (can't rust but will accumulate lots of junk). Try to clean them up with brake cleaner and a wire wheel or replace. Hardware is cheap. It sounds like you may be at the point where it's best to just get a new caliper (will likely come with new hardware) and the hose. It's really not a big job to DIY. I'm a big fan of speed bleeders if you want to one man bleed.
Old 02-04-16, 12:06 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by carguy07
The slide will pop out, but if it's frozen you will need some force. I was just holding the caliper and smacking it with a hammer to break it free for a long time. I recent;y broke down and just replaced the calipers. If there is anything that resembles a tear in the flexible brake hose, replace it asap. Brake hardware needs to be rust free for the pads to move properly. They should be stainless steel (can't rust but will accumulate lots of junk). Try to clean them up with brake cleaner and a wire wheel or replace. Hardware is cheap. It sounds like you may be at the point where it's best to just get a new caliper (will likely come with new hardware) and the hose. It's really not a big job to DIY. I'm a big fan of speed bleeders if you want to one man bleed.
used some pliers and was able to turn the pin, so i used the backend of the pliers to clamp the pin right out. using a c clamp would be much more difficult to use given how large it is. a new caliper costs much more so i'll just repair it. the guy at the store said i could just tape up the hose since it's just a small tear in the thin rubber layer wrapping the hose on the outside -- i think i'll buy a replacement and change it if it's a quick job.
Old 02-04-16, 02:13 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by hsmac
used some pliers and was able to turn the pin, so i used the backend of the pliers to clamp the pin right out. using a c clamp would be much more difficult to use given how large it is. a new caliper costs much more so i'll just repair it. the guy at the store said i could just tape up the hose since it's just a small tear in the thin rubber layer wrapping the hose on the outside -- i think i'll buy a replacement and change it if it's a quick job.
Horrifically bad advice!
Old 02-04-16, 07:01 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by carguy07
Horrifically bad advice!
what do you think about applying/spraying a coating of plastic? i'd prefer not to disassemble if unnecessary. i think friction from the caliper rubbing against the hose when someone opened it in the past created the tear. OP doesn't say to remove the caliper, but i found that i need to put significant pressure on the hose to be able to lift up or slide the bracket out of the pin. it feels like i shouldn't be doing it so... are we supposed to be undoing the bolts and removing before disassembling it?

Last edited by hsmac; 02-04-16 at 08:45 AM.
Old 02-04-16, 08:19 PM
  #42  
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There really is no way to fix a split line to make it safe. I doubt it will fail on you tomorrow, but I would not let my wife and kid drive around like that for very long. With a split brake systems you will still have some brakes if it lets go, but you really don't want that to happen. Brake fluid eats paint, so if it blows out you risk making a big mess. If you wanted to wait a month or two and do it when you were doing pads and rotors, then it's not crazy to put it off for a little while. But you're talking about doing everything including bleeding right now. It would be crazy to not fix this at the same time. IMO
Old 02-06-16, 09:32 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by carguy07
There really is no way to fix a split line to make it safe. I doubt it will fail on you tomorrow, but I would not let my wife and kid drive around like that for very long. With a split brake systems you will still have some brakes if it lets go, but you really don't want that to happen. Brake fluid eats paint, so if it blows out you risk making a big mess. If you wanted to wait a month or two and do it when you were doing pads and rotors, then it's not crazy to put it off for a little while. But you're talking about doing everything including bleeding right now. It would be crazy to not fix this at the same time. IMO
i'm not sure what the definition of a split line is, but the braided steel isn't broken, just the plastic jacket maybe 1/2 inch rip. i just prefer the path of least resistance and prefer not to mess around with these lines if unnecessary.
Old 02-06-16, 10:43 AM
  #44  
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i'd consider replacing the hose. Brake hoses have a lifespan as well and can deteriorate from the inside too. You don't want them to blow out on you and risk lives. For the cost of $25+ and up per hose its well worth it to replace and not that hard a task for DIY.

You may think chafing is not a big deal but it is big enough that Federal vehicles have regulations about brake line condition for safety considerations.
https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulation...section/393.45 § 393.45 #2
Old 02-08-16, 07:06 PM
  #45  
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Thanks. I'll replace the hose when I get a chance.


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