Dreamspell

Excuse my ignorance, but what exactly does this DIY do? I read some posts in the thread but still don't understand.

None of my doors will lock/unlock with the switch on the driver's door. Will this fix it?

salimshah

What this DIY covers is the replacement procedure for the lock motor. One still has to diagnose the problem down to bad motor.

We can take a stab at diagnosing your problem if you give us more details like
1) Does the remote lock/unlock works.
2) Does the drive side door key lock/unlock other doors.
3) Does the passenger side lock/unlock switch operates the locks
4) When you say ALL does it include rear hatch
5) Do you hear anything (at each door) when the elec. switch form the driver or passenger side is operated.
6) Did you loose other locks over time or just one day all quit on you.

Even with all the above questions answered, we will be speculating over the net. You may need a mechanic to actually do a real diagnosis. Or just do a swap on one door and see.

Salim

Pughnitive

My driver's door lock motor was shot, but thanks to this awesome post I was able to fix it. Mission accomplished!

I was a bit frustrated through the process since it was my first time, but once I started mucking around inside the door I started to realize what 2002RX300 is talking about. I found the most difficult part to be removing the power wire from the wood door lock/window panel. Not much slack in there.

Thanks CL.

mofoaka

Diy was very straight forward. The hardest thing was waiting for the motor and gear puller. FYI, I too messed up the spring under the large gear inside the actuator. If not installed correctly, unlocking the car with door will require more force with your fingers. This spring provides tension for the gear to return back to original position. I'll try and take a picture when I pry into it again.

smgraham

I just read the door lock actuator fix write up. How do I get the pictures?

rzuniga1

I will appreciate any help. I change my Rear left door actuator motor of my 2003 RX300. After inserting the new motor andgear into the case I just applied the 12V to verify its operation. Then I reassembly the door. (I checked that it can be open manually from both sides), but when I lock the door using the remote or the driver door control this door unlocks, when I press the unlock (remote or drivers control) this door locks.


Any help will be greatly appreciated.

silverstee

I did this DIY today on my drivers door and ran into a problem.

When I hit lock all the doors lock, but the drivers door unlocks. When I hit unlock all the doors unlock and the drivers door locks.

I have no idea what could be wrong.

Any idea on what is wrong?

Thanks,

Jim

rzuniga1

Sure, The motors I purchased are spinning in the other direction. I found the motors using RX300 and year but didn't specify the type of motor mentioned at the beginning of this thread: Mabuchi FC280PC-22125. I received and installed FC280SC-20150. After applying 12 V to the original I verified that they spin in opposite directions so the actuator locks when the car signals unlock, and also unlocks when the car signals lock. I just ordered the correct ones and I will receive them in three days. Now I have expertise removing the actuator and I can do it relatively fast. will reply in one week with the results, and check the model of the electric motor you installed.

ldfog

A big thanks goes to 2002RX300 and all the others who commented on this DIY. I got tired of having to manually lock and unlock both passenger side doors, so I took the plunge. I did the rear door first, after reading that it was probably the easier of the two. It took me a while to undo everything, get the assembly out of the door and open the housing. I took my time, and tried not to force anything. I got it taken apart and the new motor installed, put everything back, and checked it several times to make sure before putting the door panel back on.

Yesterday I worked on the front passenger door. Again, I took my time, but having done it once on another door, it went a little faster this time. The only issue I had was trying to figure out how to unhook the rods from the plastic connectors. What worked for me, was to remove the two bolts holding the door handle, and once everything was completely loose, to push up the entire assembly, which pushed the rods out of the door handle hole. I could then very easily unhook them without putting strain on the 14 year old plastic. Installation was the reverse--put the assembly in the door, push up, connect the rods, lower the assembly until one Torx screw lined up, then started putting things back in order. Again, I worked slowly, making sure nothing was pinched. Once all the bolts and screws were back in place, I tightened everything down. I checked to make sure the lock worked several times, even drove around a bit to see if anything rattled. Last thing was to put the door panel on.

Thanks again for everyone who has participated in this DIY. It really is fairly easy to do, once you've done it once. The pictures were a great help--I knew exactly what I was looking for when I opened it up. This also saved me about $1200 by not having to take it to the dealership.

rzuniga1

I just finished replacing the 3 door actuators in my 2003 RX300. The drivers door was done at the dealership 2 years ago ($ 500). As I said I used the correct motors and all the doors work perfectly now. I also have some pictures on how to remove the door switch and window control panel in the front passenger door. All comments mention such a hook as a PITA, but I found that it is a hook that has to be rotated (not pushed up or down). It will help future readers to do it safer and faster. I will work on the pictures and add them to this thread. Thanks to all members for the information provided in this forum.

salimshah

Dealer most likely replaces the whole assembly.

Salim

Dimarc67

DIY steps are spot on for a front door , but it took me about an hour to figure out how to Rubik's the lock mechanism out of my driver-side rear door . The window track is majorly in the way, and, unlike the front door, it cannot be moved (even after removing its bolt) without seriously risking damage/destruction.

The best description I can give for removing the lock mechanism from a rear door is this:

1. While holding the lock mechanism in the same orientation as it is when mounted, move the mechanism toward the door hinge (to the right on a driver-side rear door) such that the plastic cable shroud slides out of the access hole, and the lock mechanism is between the inside door surface and the window track--on the lock mechanism make sure that the gray metal bracket with the mounting screw hole is visible in the door access hole (maybe even sticking out a little).
2. When the lock mechanism is as far between the inside door surface and the window track as it can go (maybe even seemingly wedged there), rotate the top of the lock mechanism toward you while lifting it out of the access hole.

This took me about an hour to figure out (was desperate not to force anything), and even when I did figure it out, it was still a little difficult to find the exact spot and orientation for removing the lock mechanism.


Once I got it out, all of the rest of the DIY fell into place.



Cracking open the actuator was easier than I expected. The edge of the face nearest the connector shroud was not entirely fused anyway, so it was an easy matter to insert a matte knife point and carefully leverage the razor blade along the seam all the way around.


Once I had the actuator open, I was able to apply 12V DC directly to the motor leads to confirm the motor wasn't doing well. It would try to spin the worm gear, and fail. (And I confirmed that there was no resistance that should stop it.) Reversing polarity had the same result (with the effort in the other direction).


Since I didn't order a new motor until I confirmed that's what was needed, I put the whole lock mechanism, with motorless actuator, back together and put the whole door back together. Now when the motor arrives, it won't be such a hassle to get it all apart and back together again.



Hope this helps someone.


Dimarc67
Frederick, MD

McSooner

Hi all. First post here. Wanted to say that this site has bee a wealth of knowledge for this DIY'er.

My problem is this.........I simply DO NOT see or understand how the metal rods detach from the plastic clips. I've read through all of the pages and cant get a clear understanding.

Can anyone help please?

TY

ldfog

Welcome to CL! There are a lot of great people here, willing to share a lot of experience and know-how.

I don't claim to be an expert, but I was in your shoes about 3 weeks ago. I couldn't figure out how to get at those rods and unhook them without breaking anything. What worked for me was to have the entire assembly unbolted from the door frame, so it's all loose. There are two bolts holding the door handle on--one you can get to from the inside, and the other is covered by a rubber plug on the side. Remove the plug and take out the bolt. Because the handle is what pulls on the rods, you can now push the assembly up, and the rods will come up through the hole, One rod you have to pivot and the other is not. Be careful, but you should be able to unclip the rods from the plastic ends. Assembly is the reverse--put the assembly in the door, push up til the rods are coming out the handle hole, and clip them back in. Lower the assembly until you can line up at least one Torx screw to hold the assembly in place so you don't have to hold it, then carefully put everything back. Tighten all the bolts when everything is in, and test the mechanism several times before you even think of putting the door panel on.

Take your time, and don't force anything. You can do it!

2002RX300

I'm assuming you're talking about the plastic clips from the door handle. They just pop out, just use a reasonable amount of force to unclip them. You can see the picture I took of the rods and how the clips are orientated in them, showing one is already popped out. When you look up in there you can see which way they pop out.