marksm

I'm still mulling it over.. If it's because I cut and reversed the wires to the motor, how on earth can that affect the other things. common sense tells me it's no different than putting the correct motors in.

Anyway, I'll pull the panels off again this weekend and see if anything is obvious mechanically.

salimshah

The motor part is not your problem. I suspect something went wrong during assembly.
imho, you should not be driving with the panel on.

Salim

DougC

First, thanks for the write up. Helped immensely. The motors I ordeed had longer shafts so I cut them down. Problem was that after I reinstalled the small gear it did not have a tight fit, so after reinstall the actuator tried to work, but the motor shaft would spin and not work correctly. No way I could find only the gear to buy and all my searching could not locate the actuator replacement for my year and model (2000rx300) Took a shot and ordered a replacement actuator (DLA219) for a GS300 model ($85.00). It worked perfect. If you don't mind spending the money, I think this is the best way to go instead of splitting the case and trying to get the gear to fit properly. Like others have said, I would not have even tried this, so thanks to all.
Doug

2002RX300

A simple eBay search of "MABUCHI FC280PC-22125" yields many results, never mentioned long shafts. I've replaced three doors so far, easily done if following instructions.

ConX

Bought the recommended parts and spent Saturday morning reading the 17 pages of posts and Saturday afternoon doing the work. It was not pretty but it was successful. Cannot thank 2002RX, Salim and everyone enough for their posts. Would have been much easier having it done or buying a replacement but I really enjoyed myself.

I did cut and paste many of the posts into 2002RX's original instructions and created a document which I used as I went along. I have attached it. I used red text when I added or changed something.

Thanks again

Con

saudiboy

I broke the gear trying to get it off the motor. Any idea where to locate one?

ozzy77

I have a problem..i replaced both passenger doors today very easy to do but now they work backwards..the driver side will lock while the passenger side unlock.any ideas or suggestions?

marksm

I had that very same problem. I cut and reversed the wires but the inner gear is binding and once it is locked you cannot unlock it with the inside lock button or outside with the key.

marksm

You only replaced the rear door actuator or used the front door actuators for the GS300 as well??

marksm

Would these work in the RX300?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366759598

OleBob

Complied with directions given and got the lock to work. Biggest difficulty was splitting the case. I tried using an exacto knife but barely scratching the seam out. Finally took the blade out of a utility knife and tapped it around the seam with a small hammer until it separated. Take your time and work the seam a little at a time. Went around the seam 3 or 4 times working the blade down a little at a time.

As for the motor, went on Amazon and the motor was available with a long shaft, d shaft and short shaft. Short round shaft was the one (identical to one removed).

So far, forum has helped me in replacing struts, fixing dash rattle, intermittent window operation and door lock. Thanks to all with their advice. Everything works for the 1st time in 5 years. I got it operating like it did in 2000.

Ignorance is expensive
OleBob

blueman2

Working on this today, 2001 RX300. I got the case split with razor knife and careful work. When the motor came out, the gear fell off!

The design on mine is a little different in that the worm gear has a double D bore. The motor shaft has a plastic adapter with two flats that slides into the worm gear. The motor casing has a 24VD0X26 lightly stamped on one side.

My motor has a short round shaft. Of course, I had purchased a motor with a short D shaft. I don't think the D shaft will provide enough grip on the plastic adapter to do the job.

The plastic adapter was pressed to within about 3/32 of the motor case. I could not get a 3/32 drill between the adapter and the motor case but the 5/64 drill fit with some daylight showing.

I used the wrong end of the puller cross bar first and bent the heck out of it. Once I got the cross bar out and reversed ends it worked fine.

Now I am stuck with a disassembled mechanism, no replacement parts and the car needs to be usable tonight.

I am beginning to remember why I stopped working on cars!

blueman2

All right, I took the suggestion I had seen from one of the early posters about swapping parts in the motors. I cut a slot in the plastic end housing of the bad motor and drove out the plastic cover with the brush assembly. On one of the new motors, I cut the metal tabs on the metal housing and bent them back so I could get the plastic end cover out undamaged.. So far so good.

I thoroughly cleaned the old armature (I think that is what it is called) with denatured alcohol, a nylon toothbrush and a brass toothbrush to clean up the commutator. I cleaned the inside of the old motor housing with brake cleaner to get rid of the grime and oil that had accumulated inside. I also bent the retention tabs back flat so I could put the new end housing in.

I gently removed the armature from the new motor and disengaged it from the brushes. It had a plastic washer on the end, I had to gently push it down with a small screwdriver while tugging the armature shaft up so it did not deform the brush assemblies on the way out. When the washer was near the end of the shaft I was able to wiggle the armature enough to get the washer past the brushes with no damage.

I removed the plastic washer from the new armature and started it on the old armature. I then reverse wiggled it into place in the new plastic housing. I had to gently separate the brushes with a small screwdriver while I wiggled the shaft down till the washer was under the brushes. Then I was able to get the armature fully seated with the brushes on the commutator. Now the assembly went into the cleaned old motor housing. I used a small pin set to bend the tabs back down and gently set them flat into their recesses.

The good news is once I got it back together and installed, the motor worked. The bad news is the lock assembly does not work properly. When I use the fob to lock the car, the locks cycle, then the driver door re-locks and unlocks and finally locks again. When I hit the fob to unlock, all the locks cycle, the driver lock locks and unlocks and then locks again as do all the other locks.

So I think I must have mispositioned one of the cams inside the actuator or it slipped out of position while I was working on it. I suspect that when one lock is out of position relative to the others the system gets upset and tries to get them all in synch again. This is probably what drives the lock/unlock/re-lock cycle.

For now I am done. I admit defeat. I am not willing to undo the housing again and try to figure out how the cams and gears need to be positioned to work correctly.

I am going to leave the driver door master switch out so everything works reasonably normally (manually) while I order a new actuator assembly. Next weekend I will put it in.

Thanks to all for their contributions, it was kinda interesting taking it all apart and I learned some things.

Aqueon

Which wires did you reverse? I'm a little hesitant to cut blindly, and - at least as far as I can see - they aren't labeled. If I can find my multimeter, I could probably find out, but I'd appreciate your insight.

I'm trying to get my wife's car fixed up before we go out of town for vacation...

skihawaii

Great, that's something I was wondering reading these. Round or D shaft.
I've got my answer.
mahalo