Reengineered rear valve cover??
#91
you were definitely not joking. The "troubled" bolts tlee mentioned took me 1 1/2 hours alone. Half of it was scratching my head of how to get a wrench back to the bracket on the left.
I put in a good 3 hours already, The first hour was removing the cowl, strut bar and wiper and its surrounding. I've disconnected 1 coolant hose and a ground, something is still catching the intake manifold since i can't lift it past its studs. Going to call it a night and regroup in the afternoon.
I put in a good 3 hours already, The first hour was removing the cowl, strut bar and wiper and its surrounding. I've disconnected 1 coolant hose and a ground, something is still catching the intake manifold since i can't lift it past its studs. Going to call it a night and regroup in the afternoon.
#92
Racer
is there an actual kit for this or do I have to order all the parts separately? Is the DIY you are refering to the video?
Thanks,
Steve
Here is the parts list for anyone else looking
11201-0A060 rear valve cover assby
11213-0A010 valve cover cylinder gasket
12204-20040 PCV valve
12261-20091 ventilation hose.
Thanks,
Steve
Here is the parts list for anyone else looking
11201-0A060 rear valve cover assby
11213-0A010 valve cover cylinder gasket
12204-20040 PCV valve
12261-20091 ventilation hose.
#93
#94
you were definitely not joking. The "troubled" bolts tlee mentioned took me 1 1/2 hours alone. Half of it was scratching my head of how to get a wrench back to the bracket on the left.
I put in a good 3 hours already, The first hour was removing the cowl, strut bar and wiper and its surrounding. I've disconnected 1 coolant hose and a ground, something is still catching the intake manifold since i can't lift it past its studs. Going to call it a night and regroup in the afternoon.
I put in a good 3 hours already, The first hour was removing the cowl, strut bar and wiper and its surrounding. I've disconnected 1 coolant hose and a ground, something is still catching the intake manifold since i can't lift it past its studs. Going to call it a night and regroup in the afternoon.
The second hardest part of this job for me is the "not-able-to-reach" bolt on rear valve cover at the left side which so close to heater pipe(I believe). You'll need to lose the bracket which hold the pipe and push the pipe back a little(1/4 inch maybe), then your socket will fit in. Or you'll need a wobble 1/4 in extension bar(which I don't have). Also you'll need to be taller than 6 ft, I experienced the difficulty to reach the rear engine bay because of my length(I'm 6 ft tall, I guess 6'2" will greatly help this matter).
Anyway, you already pass the hardest part(troubled bolts), your skills should get your through the rest w/o problem( I saw your posts, from there I can tell that you're very experienced).
#95
I should use stronger words on that bolts to warn you. There are 2 ground bolts, you may miss one at back which holding your plenum. Give this job extra time tomorrow, why? the inside of plenum and intake will cover by oil residue heavily(especially on cylinder #2,#1 side, it close to PCV pipe), you definitely want to clean it.
The second hardest part of this job for me is the "not-able-to-reach" bolt on rear valve cover at the left side which so close to heater pipe(I believe). You'll need to lose the bracket which hold the pipe and push the pipe back a little(1/4 inch maybe), then your socket will fit in. Or you'll need a wobble 1/4 in extension bar(which I don't have). Also you'll need to be taller than 6 ft, I experienced the difficulty to reach the rear engine bay because of my length(I'm 6 ft tall, I guess 6'2" will greatly help this matter).
Anyway, you already pass the hardest part(troubled bolts), your skills should get your through the rest w/o problem( I saw your posts, from there I can tell that you're very experienced).
The second hardest part of this job for me is the "not-able-to-reach" bolt on rear valve cover at the left side which so close to heater pipe(I believe). You'll need to lose the bracket which hold the pipe and push the pipe back a little(1/4 inch maybe), then your socket will fit in. Or you'll need a wobble 1/4 in extension bar(which I don't have). Also you'll need to be taller than 6 ft, I experienced the difficulty to reach the rear engine bay because of my length(I'm 6 ft tall, I guess 6'2" will greatly help this matter).
Anyway, you already pass the hardest part(troubled bolts), your skills should get your through the rest w/o problem( I saw your posts, from there I can tell that you're very experienced).
I'm officially part of the intake manifold removal self-torture club
This afternoon, it will be smooth sailing for the valve cover replacement. I just need to stop by the store for an E6 socket to remove the injector harness stays.
Last edited by fastnoypi; 03-02-15 at 04:38 PM.
#96
I reattempted last night, and got the intake manifold off. The wire loom off the throttle body was holding me back and a vac hose ( i suspect it is to the egr, located under the throttle body).
I'm officially part of the intake manifold removal self-torture club
This afternoon, it will be smooth sailing for the valve cover replacement. I just need to stop by the store for an E6 socket to remove the injector harness stays.
I'm officially part of the intake manifold removal self-torture club
This afternoon, it will be smooth sailing for the valve cover replacement. I just need to stop by the store for an E6 socket to remove the injector harness stays.
The studs you're going to remove by E6 socket are " locked " in the aluminum alloy valve cover, be careful with it, I sheared one of them. I grind the head of stud to square and use adjustable wrench to remove it. You also can use double-nuts method to remove it if you don't have grinder. It's my another "troubled" experiences(compare to the hardest step,it was feel like nothing at that moment).
#97
Racer
180 just for the valve cover? ouch!; I may have to look into getting it off ebay where i can hopefully find a oem redesigned one for less than that cause I dont think i can afford that. As for the rest of those; any idea how much besides the 9 dollar part? Also; is there a link to pics on how to get the cover off without breaking anything(hopefully)?
#98
Racer
Im thinking more and more that i probably should do this valve cover mod so i dont encounter any oil issues. But if its a major p.i.t.a.; then i may just pay to have a shop do it.unless my sisters husband can help me. Would need pics etc if i feel like i can attempt this one myself.(plus my sisters husband is a big do it yourself person so he has the skills to do it so i can get his help hopefully).
#99
Racer
you were definitely not joking. The "troubled" bolts tlee mentioned took me 1 1/2 hours alone. Half of it was scratching my head of how to get a wrench back to the bracket on the left.
I put in a good 3 hours already, The first hour was removing the cowl, strut bar and wiper and its surrounding. I've disconnected 1 coolant hose and a ground, something is still catching the intake manifold since i can't lift it past its studs. Going to call it a night and regroup in the afternoon.
I put in a good 3 hours already, The first hour was removing the cowl, strut bar and wiper and its surrounding. I've disconnected 1 coolant hose and a ground, something is still catching the intake manifold since i can't lift it past its studs. Going to call it a night and regroup in the afternoon.
#100
Racer
Just looked up that part number for the rear valve cover assembly on ebay and the search only found 1 listing and they want 195 bucks for it!....OUCH!!!......so much for possibly getting off a lot cheaper than that!. Also.....is there a thread somewhere with a set of step by step with pics instructions on how to get the rear valve cover off?(the one that has been the culprit for most people and that has the original flawed design). Also one more thing; is there any place I can find the replacement valve cover any cheaper than 180?
#101
180 just for the valve cover? ouch!; I may have to look into getting it off ebay where i can hopefully find a oem redesigned one for less than that cause I dont think i can afford that. As for the rest of those; any idea how much besides the 9 dollar part? Also; is there a link to pics on how to get the cover off without breaking anything(hopefully)?
Im thinking more and more that i probably should do this valve cover mod so i dont encounter any oil issues. But if its a major p.i.t.a.; then i may just pay to have a shop do it.unless my sisters husband can help me. Would need pics etc if i feel like i can attempt this one myself.(plus my sisters husband is a big do it yourself person so he has the skills to do it so i can get his help hopefully).
Removing the cowl and wipers is simple, pop the 2 plastic corner clips, remove the cover. remove every securing nut underneath.
I edited my post #95. It was the vac hose to the IACV.
#102
Racer
so basically; bottom line in order to get to the rear valve cover(the flawed one) is ya gotta take off the wipers; then take off the windshield cowl; then under that; find and take off the intake manifold; then once that is done one should be able to get access to the flawed valve cover. Is this correct or is there another step or more that im missing? And thanks for all the replies everyone. This really should give me a idea whether or not i can handle this myself or whether or not i need to seek the assistance of my sisters husband who is just about a expert in being a mechanic.Also; where could i possibly find the newer cover design and gasket set any cheaper(if possible) and what is the correct part numbers for the cover and gasket?
#103
so basically; bottom line in order to get to the rear valve cover(the flawed one) is ya gotta take off the wipers; then take off the windshield cowl; then under that; find and take off the intake manifold; then once that is done one should be able to get access to the flawed valve cover. Is this correct or is there another step or more that im missing? And thanks for all the replies everyone. This really should give me a idea whether or not i can handle this myself or whether or not i need to seek the assistance of my sisters husband who is just about a expert in being a mechanic.Also; where could i possibly find the newer cover design and gasket set any cheaper(if possible) and what is the correct part numbers for the cover and gasket?
Have you seen the video in post #79? It outlines just about everything.
removing the rear 2 bolts for the intake manifold support mentioned in post #85 were the hardest.
I think you should be able to do this job. Take extra care in separating and labeling the vac hoses and take pictures as you go.
The gaskets can be had cheap from rockauto. I used the Fel-pro gaskets.
tools i used
10, 12, 14mm sockets
1/4" torque wrench , 3/8 torque wrench
flat head screwdriver - for wire harness clips
needle nose pliers- for hose clamps
The following users liked this post:
coomassie (04-29-20)
#104
Lexus Test Driver
so basically; bottom line in order to get to the rear valve cover(the flawed one) is ya gotta take off the wipers; then take off the windshield cowl; then under that; find and take off the intake manifold; then once that is done one should be able to get access to the flawed valve cover. Is this correct or is there another step or more that im missing? And thanks for all the replies everyone. This really should give me a idea whether or not i can handle this myself or whether or not i need to seek the assistance of my sisters husband who is just about a expert in being a mechanic.Also; where could i possibly find the newer cover design and gasket set any cheaper(if possible) and what is the correct part numbers for the cover and gasket?
If you have to "find" the intake manifold, then please do not attempt to do this job.
I don't mean to be harsh, but I'm not sure how I can phrase it any nicer. My apologizes if I offend you, but just trying to make sure you don't find yourself in a pickle.
#105
Racer
This says it all... You shouldn't attempt to DIY this.
If you have to "find" the intake manifold, then please do not attempt to do this job.
I don't mean to be harsh, but I'm not sure how I can phrase it any nicer. My apologizes if I offend you, but just trying to make sure you don't find yourself in a pickle.
If you have to "find" the intake manifold, then please do not attempt to do this job.
I don't mean to be harsh, but I'm not sure how I can phrase it any nicer. My apologizes if I offend you, but just trying to make sure you don't find yourself in a pickle.