EnzoRX

I just did an oil change yesterday and only ~4 quarts came out of the oil pan (last oil change was done at around 83,000 miles). I have a 2001 RX300 AWD with about 88,000 miles on it. I do not see any signs of leaking (no oil puddles on the garage floor) and the oil filter shows no signs of leaking.

I am suspecting I have an oil consumption issue. I changed out the PCV valve at about 83,000 miles (it is the brass/metal PCV that you need to screw in). If I need to change out the valve covers...do I need to change out both of them?

At the parts.com website, Part #11201-0A060, comes in two flavors...one is spec'd as "Right" and the other is spec'd as "Left". Which one is designated as the Rear Valve cover?

Are there any parts that I need to purchase (ie. gaskets, etc.) along with the new valve cover? I am going to give this task to my independent mechanic to replace whatever is needed.

Thank you, all.

hypervish

Well did you check the oil level before draining the oil? Remember, there is oil still in the filter.

Your oil consumption (if there even is any), is normal.

All engines burn a little oil, they have to. It may not be measurable but they do all burn oil.

iamdk72986

Hey Partywave, so the valve cover, the valve cover gasket and the hose from the PCV valve to the intake manifold is all for a RX330? My RX with the older style valve is consuming about a quart every 500 miles of mixed driving, although it seems to be mostly when I'm driving on the highway.

If the car has sat for a while after a long drive and I start the car, intermittently (maybe every 3 out of 5 times) I get a huge cloud of blue smoke for the first couple seconds and goes away. Initially I thought it may be valve stem seals but my other car, which actually needed valve stem seals, smoked like crazy after idling for a bit (say stuck in bumper to bumper traffic) or driving off from a red light. My RX only smokes when I start the car after it's been sitting for a while so I'm planning on giving this newer valve cover a shot.

Daniel

salimshah

There are other ways to determine potential reasons and it may be appropriate to follow them, instead to going on a hunch [which may or may not be correct]. Tests like compression test and valve leakdown test.

Salim

iamdk72986

Hey Salimshah, first of all, thank you for all you've been doing for the community. Although I've only been recently posting on the forums, I've been a long time reader and appreciate what you've done.

I have done a compression test and all read within spec. I haven't done a valve leakdown test as of yet as the one at my friend's shop broke and am waiting for a new one. I've been using Penzoil Platinum 5W30 and have done an AutoRX treatment about 10K miles ago. I've changed the PCV valve twice within the last 10K miles as well. The most recent time I changed the PCV valve, it had maybe 6K miles on it and when I shook it, it rattled very slowly as if there was oil in the valve. I put in a new valve and it's still smoking.
What interests me is although I push the valve all the way in, whenever I open my hood to check oil levels, etc, the PCV valve is slightly pushed out (about a quarter inch to half an inch at most) and I have to push it back in. The rubber seal on the valve cover for the PCV valve is moist with oil but not drenched from what I'm able to see. My guess is that the crankcase is too pressurized for whatever reason. Please feel free to chime in as I'm not 100% sure of my theory on this lol.

Out of curiosity, the 3000GT guys use this thing called Kranks Vents. Supposedly it greatly increases the ventilation rate in the PCV system with great results. Wondering if anyone has heard of it? It's basically a 1-way valve. Anyone tried using this method to potentially fix our poor PCV systems?

Daniel

salimshah

There are all sorts of theories floating around, and my personal view is the automobiles are now 100+ year old machines and have gone through so many improvements. At this time the problems are due to something "abnormal" in a particular engine.

I have to base my theory on some assumptions ... So here it is
1. The oil level does not rise in the valve cover to the bottom of the PCV, so liquid oil does not travel up and out of PCV.
2. Fuel, being the lowest to boil makes it to the PCV [expected normal behavior]
3. Engine being tilted, maybe Lexus/Toyota should have a PCV on bank2 (or both), but they mostlikely have done some research. [or may be not ]
4. Only oil vapors rich with fuel vapors make it to the PCV

So why are you loosing oil?

Common (dont know if it is correct or not) information here in CL is change the PCV and clean the pipe.

I dont think that the oil is traveling up to the intake and getting burnt. On the contrary the a stuck/clogged PCV or the pipe is building more pressure above the head and is squeezing more oil through the valves into the combustion chamber. <= Note this is just a theory

In your case, have to replaced the rubber gromet around the PCV. There is a shelf inside the cover that helps in recovering a torn grommet (but folks complain that it makes the flow restrictive).

I dont know if it helps ... for sure it is my rambling.

Salim
ps: It not just me, every one who write in contributes.

iamdk72986

This is what I was thinking as well. I haven't thought of cleaning out the hoses as I assumed that with a hose of an inner diameter that big, it'd be pretty hard to clog but I guess I'm going to have to take a look now. I'll be sure to chime in again when I get the chance to take a look at it.

Daniel

PS - I suppose I didn't come off as fair. I thank everyone for their contributions to our community.

iamdk72986

OK, so this morning, I checked out the hoses for the PCV system and they weren't clogged. I took out the PCV valve and there was oil in the valve preventing it from rattling freely. I cleaned out the valve and put it back in. I drove about 30 miles, mixed between city and highway, but ending in mostly highway. I stayed at my destination for about half an hour to an hour. When I started the car, a ton of blue smoke came out of the exhaust pipe. I drove off almost immediately after I started the car and blue smoke continued to come out the exhaust pipe heavily for about 2-3 full seconds and then it stopped. I did the return drive back, parked the car for another hour or so and when I started the car, no smoke came out of the exhaust. I'm truly puzzled at the fact that the smoking issue isn't consistent. It's been 1100 miles since I did the last oil change (Penzoil Platinum 5W30 and Marvel Mystery Oil) and I've had to add about 2.5 quarts. This is with mixed driving (city and highway). Perhaps the newer valve cover isn't the answer?

Daniel

PS - Is the reengineered rear valve cover the same as one from an ES330?

gazi001

Partywave, Did you replace the rear valve cover yet? How was it? I have to do mine very soon. Any update with pictures!

Rdmoon

Typical for me, I accidentally lost my first post before it was finished so I'll try again. I bought a 2001 Lexus RX300 w/ 80,600 miles. The color is burnished gold. CARFAX showed that it was a one owner car from Long Island and was obviosly a short-hop errand car as it normally posted about 700 miles per month. Everything worked, though it was a bit scuzzy from tree sap and pollen. I washed it with Greased Lightning and a sponge and plenty of water. Then rubbed it down twice with polishing compound and it now looks like new. (also used RainX wax twice)
The point of what will come up on this post is that the Lexus Forum presents a lot of really good information and fixes that aren't always talked about much elsewhere. So, Thanks, Lexus Forum! Almost all of my solutions came through the forum postings.
1. Replaced plugs w/new Iridium performance plugs (supposedly a more complete burn). Also replaced the oil with Mobil 1 5W30 Synthetic for an upcoming cleaning. ($135 w/labor). Also had all the fluids replaced (about $200 w/labor). As a final help, I added XADO friction reducers to everything except the engine) I ordered from Amazon and the cost w/labor was about $75. (transaxle, rear axle, power steering, and auto trans.). Supposed to be good for 60,000 miles. The running gear is now dead quiet; really nice.
2. Read nearly 641 posts about the RX for education and new information; took a few months.
3. The RX was already on its second exhaust and it was getting weak. I Installed a Walker Quiet-Flow Stainless Steel exhaust system for $685 plus $115 labor. The Walker is a three piece system, with a CAT Conv., (#16121) muffler (#53406) and extension pipe, and the resonator assembly (#56096) with a short pipe and a built in tip. I ordered this at Advance Auto Parts and it took about 4 days to get there. (Always double check all parts and part numbers). It's quiet but has a subdued deep sound to it.
4. The steel rims were rusting at the spokes and the Michelin tires were not wearing even. I replaced the rims with Voxx alumn. wheels and Cooper CS4 Touring M+S tires. I ordered both from Discount Tires Direct. They were delivered to my door for $900. (80.000 mile tires)
5. Took the RX to a good alignment shop and they balanced all four tires and did a front alignment (rear was ok). (Cost was $97)
6. To this point, the car was getting 18 mpg no matter how you drove it or what grade of gas you used! This indicated one or more problems. I added 4 oz of Seafoam to the gas tank and asked how much it would cost for a new fuel filter. Surprise! The 2001 RX does not have a fuel filter under the seat. It uses a fuel screen set up that is mounted in the fuel tank. I drove the car for about ten milles and the mileage improved a little. The engine sputtered a time or two then began to smooth out, so I added four more oz of Seafoam to the tank. By the time tank was near empty the mileage was hovering at 19 mpg and I had a better throttle response also.
7. It worked so well that I added the remaining half-bottle to the oil as recommended by a couple of the Forum members. This to see if my dip-stick would turn from clean to dark and how miles it took to get there. At 10 miles, no change. 25 miles it was a little darker. At 100 miles it was a dark amber so I took it in for an oil change.
8. The really big fix was to order the upgraded rear valve cover, new pcv, and hoses. (I was using 4-5 qts every oil change.) I took my Forum info into my Toyota dealer and he went to the updated / revised numbers in the upgraded parts screen and found the parts almost immediately. (The parts came to $293 and the labor was an additional $150) The numbers were good. Here they are, direct off of the Toyota Invoice (these are special order items.) 11201-0A060 rear valve cover assby; 11213-0A010 valve cover cylinder gasket; 12204-20040 PCV valve; 12261-20091 ventilation hose. The pcv valve is a precision all metal unit made to fit this valve cover. The parts man also said it had a higher flow rate than the plastic one. The baffle on the valve cover is smaller and at different angles. The baffle chambers on the cover seem longer and more of a precision casting. I'd recommend ordering three or four valve cover bolts as they have a tendency to shear off on some of these V-6s. I now have 2,000 miles on the new setup with "cruises" of 60, 70, and 80 mph with no loss or use of oil whatsoever! This is a great fix! Also added XADO to oil to further reduce friction. The V6 is now super quiet and their was no sludge at all when we checked the RX before the new valve cover went on!
Coming back from a doctor's appt I got an avg of 23.1 over the 45 mile trip. Around town, I'm getting 19-22 depending on the traffic. These are 'liveable' numbers!
So what's left. The 90,000 service. That will cost around $800 with my independent mechanic. He uses the hi-grade kit and includes water pump and thermostat and replacing the antifreeze. I will also drain the Mobil1 Turbo Diesel 5W40 synth. oil (no clolor change after the 2,000 miles) and replace with AMSOIL 5W30 Signature series and try going a year between changes. I think it will make it. But I'll try to locate some petroleum 'litmus' paper and see if the acids remain low. Should be interesting.
I really believe that using a good synthetic oil is the best insurance you can get to prevent sludge and extend engine life. I use them in every piece of power I own.
That's what I've done to this point, thanks to the Lexus Forum. Everything I've tried has worked or has done no harm. But I can only verify what worked for me. Do your own research and let that and your pocket book be your guide! When the 90,000 mile service is done I will have a little over $16,000 invested in the car. It pretty much acts, looks, and handles like new and has the most efficient A/C I've ever seen in a car. It uses .3 mpg at 65 mph. Terrific! I now have a really great luxury SUV for a reasonable price. Let's hope it holds up! Thanks for letting me pass on what has worked to far, thanks to the Forum members!

lexus2k2

Rdmoon - thanks for the long reply with details. Good information.

I am getting mixed feelings about Seafoam in this forums.

If I were to use it .. is it better to use before I change the rear valve cover or after ?

The Mech also is recommending that I change the spark plugs and tuning while he is changing the rear valve cover .. saves on labor.

I am at 90k .. have not done the "big" maintenance yet.

What else can I get done so I can save on labor.

Dadikins

Timing belt & water pump

Rdmoon

Hi lexus 2K2. I'd leave instructions to your mechanic to look for sludge build up while the valve cover is off. What you find under one will likely be the same in the other one. If there's little to no sludge showing you could then add the 4-8 ounces of SeaFoam to the oil, check for color changes (light to dark or black) and if all seems reasonably good after a 100 miles, get an oil change with a good synthetic oil and enjoy your good fortune. The SeaFoam really has made my RX300 run more like a new one!
I'd say the other posting suggesting the timing belt & water pump is a good one. The full service usually will replace the timing belt, water pump, and you might as well have the antifreeze replaced and thermostat checked, which can be done at the same time. You can always refer to the manual for the other service needs beginning at around 80K and figure out what you rcan easonably take care of . My 90K will come up near the end of June and I'll be glad when it's over due to the expense.
And if your mechanic doesn't find sludge, add whatever is left from the SeaFoam to the gas tank. It just might help clean things up there too! Since SeaFoam is a kind of solvent I'd be careful around paint. I don't know just what it would or wouldn't do. It's probably in the fine print somewhere. Good luck with all of it!
-- Rdmoon --

salimshah

Guys ... Please keep the discussion on topic. This thread is about valve cover.

It will be a shame if I were to delete all the time and energy spent in composing the notes to keep the house tidy.

Salim

Partywave

Hi gazi001, yes, my post you quoted included pics of when I replaced my valve cover; pic of the baked on sludge old valve cover that was removed and a pic of the brand new valve cover that replaced it. It was the best money I ever spent. My RX has run great ever since.