bearbrew

The wires could be spliced but by doing so the splices would be under the vehicle and exposed to a very harsh environment. With the proper splicing tools and the correct harsh environment splices a weather proof connection could be accomplished. But most DIY people don't have all the speciality tools for such a job.
Doing a job that only needs to be accomplished once every 100,000 to 200,000 miles is something the installer has to determine whether to splice or not.

MVLEX

Nice job lexmex!!!!
Will that give you more mpg??

Lexmex

No, it's more emissions than anything, but I knew after replacing the a/f sensors up front (and those looked really messed up), I wanted this replaced. We do not have emissions in Florida, so it was not a big deal. Just something I wanted to get out of the way.

lexus4us

Very Nice Lex

lkersten

Thanks for the great tutorial. Do you know if this sensor being out can trip P1130 and P1150 DTCs? My OBD2 reader says that OS2 B1, S2 STF is operating at 0%. It also says that the fuel sys sta b1 and b2 have a state of CL, Faulty HO2S (which I take to mean heated oxygen sensor). Any help is greatly appreciated.

Lexmex

Welcome to the Club.

The A/F sensors upstream are usually the culprits there, not the O2 sensor that I replaced in this DIY. When the 2 upstream A/F sensors start to get worn, they will pop P1130 and P1150 codes (and similar ones)

thejanitor

Another superb guide lexmex.

what fault code relates to this sensor?

razali2k5

I believe the fault code for this sensor is P0136.

I just ordered a Bosch SmartLink sensor (part number 15739). This sensor will involve splicing, but the kit is made for that. I will be replacing it in a couple of weeks and I will report on my luck with this sensor. I really do not want to cut through the carpet, or take it off.

81corolla

For reference:

90179-08059 -- 12mm nut for O2 sensor (x2)
89466-20020-83 -- Gasket between exhaust and O2 sensor

razali2k5

Thank you for this information. The nuts on my old oxygen sensor were almost completely rusted off. It cost me $7.23 for both.

I finally installed the Bosch SmartLink 15739 sensor. This sensor took about 20 minutes to install since I did not have to take the seat out and cut the carpet. It came with the gasket so I did not have to buy it separately. The installation was simple with the Installation Guide. Basically, the splicing kit comes with a waterproof casing and the new sensor can be connected to the old wires (they even have a chart to match the colors of the different wires). As expected, my error code went away after installation. I would highly recommend this sensor for a hassle-free and easy installation.

Also, this sensor seems to be cheaper than others. On Amazon it costs just $45.77 right now.

hypervish

Hey Lexmex or anyone for that matter, I'm getting ready to change the sensor on my rx300. I looked under the seat and saw a cut in the carpet already there... I saw the same cut in your picture, so did it come like that from the factory or did someone already replace the sensor?
If that is the correct cut should i just make it bigger?

Cause I'm getting code 0420, and i figured it was this sensor, but IF it's already been replaced then it must be the CAT correct? I already have the sensor so I'll install it anyways...

Lexmex

That cut was already in the carpet from the factory.

I made the cut bigger to show everyone for the purposes of the DIY, but you may or may not need to make it bigger.

hypervish

Is the sensor directly underneath that cut or to the side? I believe it's to the right side, no?
So which way should i cut it bigger, because i can't really feel the sensor connection by putting my hand in the hole.

Lexmex

You can peek through the crack and see in there, but if you are sitting in the back seat and looking toward the front of the car, then from the middle of that cut, a bit to the right and forward.

Jerseyguy

I'm attempting this DIY and hit something unexpected. The nuts holding the sensor to the mount on the exhaust pipe have completely rusted away (see photo).

From what I can tell, the only thing holding it and the metal "shield" to the pipe is corrosion. I tried (gently) to move the sensor and shield but it won't budge.

My questions are: Should I soak the whole thing with penetrating oil and see if it can be worked loose? If so, any recommendations (PB Blaster, Kano Aerokroil)?

Assuming it does come off (without complications), should I do anything special when putting the new nuts onto the studs?

The pipe itself doesn't seem to be in great shape so I don't want to use brute force on it.

Any and all thoughts/recommendations are welcome. Thanks!