DIY: Replacing air/fuel sensor
10-31-12, 12:45 PM
#136
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ReadyAct, glad the the info on here helped. I know it saved me a lot of money and troubleshooting, or an expensive trip to the dealer.
Just a tip, PB Blaster works ten times better than WD40 on loosening rusty bolts. It is truly an amazing product, and I can't believe I was wrenching three decades before using this wonderful product. It will wick down through the threads and break up carbon buildup and rust much, much better than WD40. Even better than Liquid Wrench.
Just a tip, PB Blaster works ten times better than WD40 on loosening rusty bolts. It is truly an amazing product, and I can't believe I was wrenching three decades before using this wonderful product. It will wick down through the threads and break up carbon buildup and rust much, much better than WD40. Even better than Liquid Wrench.
11-10-12, 11:47 AM
#137
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Hi to all, I am getting ready to do this job and I have two questions.
1. If we are going to replace the sensor, why do we have to have a split socket to remove the sensor? Isn't it simpler to just cut the wires from the sensor and use a non-split socket?
2. PB blaster is mentioned as a way to loosen the threads, but i read somewhere that Kano Aerokroil is even better . Has anyone used it?
1. If we are going to replace the sensor, why do we have to have a split socket to remove the sensor? Isn't it simpler to just cut the wires from the sensor and use a non-split socket?
2. PB blaster is mentioned as a way to loosen the threads, but i read somewhere that Kano Aerokroil is even better . Has anyone used it?
11-10-12, 11:58 AM
#138
Moderator
Read the whole thread. for all suggestions.
I used boxed wrench and for me the job was very easy.
The most important thing to remember is to loosen 1/2 turn tighten 1/4 turn. Work it to protect the threads.
Salim
I used boxed wrench and for me the job was very easy.
The most important thing to remember is to loosen 1/2 turn tighten 1/4 turn. Work it to protect the threads.
Salim
11-10-12, 02:45 PM
#139
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I read the whole thread, didnt see any mention of cutting wires to avoid using split wrench, nor use of Aerokroil. What do you think about those alternatives? I know I may need the split wrench to tighten the new sensor, but it should not need a lot of torque when tightening it.
Jim
Jim
11-10-12, 03:28 PM
#140
Moderator
IMHO you are over thinking the problem.
You can cut the wire, but your socket has to be deep and should have enough hollow portion for the sensor [you have to figure this on your own].
You can grind the senor (discussed)
Borrow the sensor tool, put a clamp on it.
Use a box-wrench (my favorite).
Use your choice of thread breaker.. Which one is better .. jury is out.
How hard is your sensor stuck ... your luck.
Give it a try and let us know how it went.
Salim
You can cut the wire, but your socket has to be deep and should have enough hollow portion for the sensor [you have to figure this on your own].
You can grind the senor (discussed)
Borrow the sensor tool, put a clamp on it.
Use a box-wrench (my favorite).
Use your choice of thread breaker.. Which one is better .. jury is out.
How hard is your sensor stuck ... your luck.
Give it a try and let us know how it went.
Salim
11-12-12, 04:37 AM
#141
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I read the whole thread, didnt see any mention of cutting wires to avoid using split wrench, nor use of Aerokroil. What do you think about those alternatives? I know I may need the split wrench to tighten the new sensor, but it should not need a lot of torque when tightening it.
Jim
Jim
Even if you cut, most sockets won't fit unless you have some big deep wells, and you will need the split one to tighten the new Sensor.
11-12-12, 08:30 AM
#142
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Cutting the wire and using another "juice"
I agree with the prior two postings. I may have considered cutting the wire also but, being an utter novice, I didn't know if my car would run (to drive it to a mechanic after I was unsuccessful) if I cut the wire and had to drive my car that way. And I had great sucess with PB Blaster so again, use whatever works. I think the other issue is installing the replacement sensor which may require an open slotted socket anyway. Thanks for your questions. This forum is indeed helpful to me.
11-18-12, 04:09 PM
#143
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B1S1 Air/Fuel Sensor replacement
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I replaced the sensor yesterday, reset the CEL and so far, no light!
To Salim, thanks for your input. I have never found that over-thinking a problem or solution was too much trouble. It often prevents further problems from happening.
I found that disconnecting the plug was the most difficult part of the fix. I cut the wires at the sensor (point of no return!!) to try to get leverage on the plug to remove it. Didn't work. It is difficult to depress the tab. I found that using a long screwdriver (14 inches!!) and leveraging pressure off the bulkhead was the best way to depress the tab. But the person who mentioned that the tab will "click' gave me the best information. I heard the faint click, then 15 minutes later realized the tab might have been released. Returning to the underside of the car I was able to remove the plug. I didn't need to have cut the wires.
Next step was to remove the sensor. About 1 hour earlier I had sprayed it with the AeroKroil. But I don't think it was needed as the sensor just came loose very easily. In fact I was able to remove it by hand after the first 1/2 turn with the wrench. I then put the thread lubricant (provided with the sensor) on the sensor, screwed it in and tightened it up. After I got the plug loose it was a 10 minute job. My cost on this with the sensor, wrench and Aerokroil was about $120. My dealer had replaced the front sensor (the easier one) last year for $411. So I saved $290 thanks to this web site and the people that contribute to it. My thanks to you all!!!
Jim
To Salim, thanks for your input. I have never found that over-thinking a problem or solution was too much trouble. It often prevents further problems from happening.
I found that disconnecting the plug was the most difficult part of the fix. I cut the wires at the sensor (point of no return!!) to try to get leverage on the plug to remove it. Didn't work. It is difficult to depress the tab. I found that using a long screwdriver (14 inches!!) and leveraging pressure off the bulkhead was the best way to depress the tab. But the person who mentioned that the tab will "click' gave me the best information. I heard the faint click, then 15 minutes later realized the tab might have been released. Returning to the underside of the car I was able to remove the plug. I didn't need to have cut the wires.
Next step was to remove the sensor. About 1 hour earlier I had sprayed it with the AeroKroil. But I don't think it was needed as the sensor just came loose very easily. In fact I was able to remove it by hand after the first 1/2 turn with the wrench. I then put the thread lubricant (provided with the sensor) on the sensor, screwed it in and tightened it up. After I got the plug loose it was a 10 minute job. My cost on this with the sensor, wrench and Aerokroil was about $120. My dealer had replaced the front sensor (the easier one) last year for $411. So I saved $290 thanks to this web site and the people that contribute to it. My thanks to you all!!!
Jim
11-19-12, 03:41 AM
#144
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Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I replaced the sensor yesterday, reset the CEL and so far, no light!
To Salim, thanks for your input. I have never found that over-thinking a problem or solution was too much trouble. It often prevents further problems from happening.
I found that disconnecting the plug was the most difficult part of the fix. I cut the wires at the sensor (point of no return!!) to try to get leverage on the plug to remove it. Didn't work. It is difficult to depress the tab. I found that using a long screwdriver (14 inches!!) and leveraging pressure off the bulkhead was the best way to depress the tab. But the person who mentioned that the tab will "click' gave me the best information. I heard the faint click, then 15 minutes later realized the tab might have been released. Returning to the underside of the car I was able to remove the plug. I didn't need to have cut the wires.
Next step was to remove the sensor. About 1 hour earlier I had sprayed it with the AeroKroil. But I don't think it was needed as the sensor just came loose very easily. In fact I was able to remove it by hand after the first 1/2 turn with the wrench. I then put the thread lubricant (provided with the sensor) on the sensor, screwed it in and tightened it up. After I got the plug loose it was a 10 minute job. My cost on this with the sensor, wrench and Aerokroil was about $120. My dealer had replaced the front sensor (the easier one) last year for $411. So I saved $290 thanks to this web site and the people that contribute to it. My thanks to you all!!!
Jim
To Salim, thanks for your input. I have never found that over-thinking a problem or solution was too much trouble. It often prevents further problems from happening.
I found that disconnecting the plug was the most difficult part of the fix. I cut the wires at the sensor (point of no return!!) to try to get leverage on the plug to remove it. Didn't work. It is difficult to depress the tab. I found that using a long screwdriver (14 inches!!) and leveraging pressure off the bulkhead was the best way to depress the tab. But the person who mentioned that the tab will "click' gave me the best information. I heard the faint click, then 15 minutes later realized the tab might have been released. Returning to the underside of the car I was able to remove the plug. I didn't need to have cut the wires.
Next step was to remove the sensor. About 1 hour earlier I had sprayed it with the AeroKroil. But I don't think it was needed as the sensor just came loose very easily. In fact I was able to remove it by hand after the first 1/2 turn with the wrench. I then put the thread lubricant (provided with the sensor) on the sensor, screwed it in and tightened it up. After I got the plug loose it was a 10 minute job. My cost on this with the sensor, wrench and Aerokroil was about $120. My dealer had replaced the front sensor (the easier one) last year for $411. So I saved $290 thanks to this web site and the people that contribute to it. My thanks to you all!!!
Jim
Love this forum, it has probably saved me a thousand dollars already on "common" maintenance.
11-20-12, 05:44 AM
#145
Driver School Candidate
OEM vs Denso ?
hi everyone,
Can someone tell what sensor will be better quality OEM Toyota or DENSO? And is there any posibility that somebody can clean them and resell as new one?
Thanks a bunch
Can someone tell what sensor will be better quality OEM Toyota or DENSO? And is there any posibility that somebody can clean them and resell as new one?
Thanks a bunch
11-20-12, 07:49 AM
#146
Moderator
For all sensors, dont buy any after-market stuff. [Others may work but not worth the trouble].
Once you accept the above, only buy from reputable or dealer stores. You will pay more but you are guaranteed to get the genuine stuff.
DIY and save.
Salim
Once you accept the above, only buy from reputable or dealer stores. You will pay more but you are guaranteed to get the genuine stuff.
DIY and save.
Salim
12-03-12, 03:13 PM
#148
Driver School Candidate
Torque pressure
Hi everyone,
Guys who know how tight should be new sensor, sensor instructions says to check manufacturer's specifications for torque.
Thank you for your contribution
Guys who know how tight should be new sensor, sensor instructions says to check manufacturer's specifications for torque.
Thank you for your contribution
01-25-13, 07:16 AM
#149
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I registered with Club Lexus today to offer my thanks for a fix I did 2 months ago and is still holding up.Just wanted to say your post was a huge help, I would only want to add that I had no chance of unplugging the sensor wires without removing the battery, just not enough room to get my hands in there. Thank You Thank You Thank You.
01-25-13, 08:31 AM
#150
Moderator
I registered with Club Lexus today to offer my thanks for a fix I did 2 months ago and is still holding up.Just wanted to say your post was a huge help, I would only want to add that I had no chance of unplugging the sensor wires without removing the battery, just not enough room to get my hands in there. Thank You Thank You Thank You.
Salim