Timing Belt DIY
07-10-09, 02:12 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Timing Belt DIY
I am planning to do the timing belt in the near future, and I am trying to collect any information, warning, heads up, things to watch for. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Any tricks you have to make things easier is always better then in the book. Things I trusted the most is to hear from owners experiences. To me by looking at the engine bay, the rx first gen has a lot of rooms to work with.
I am surprised my search results did not have anything about timing belt replacement procedure, only from Salim saying to keep the marks properly. Most of the threads suggested to have the shop done, but that didn't answer the question. It is like saying, 'why fixing the old car, just buy a new one and be worry free.' I have done many timing belts before, including toyota, nissan, honda; except rx specifically. It is not about saving to me, but I like to do things right, and always being cautious before I do things. Mechanics have done poor jobs, and created more problems out of the blue.
I am surprised my search results did not have anything about timing belt replacement procedure, only from Salim saying to keep the marks properly. Most of the threads suggested to have the shop done, but that didn't answer the question. It is like saying, 'why fixing the old car, just buy a new one and be worry free.' I have done many timing belts before, including toyota, nissan, honda; except rx specifically. It is not about saving to me, but I like to do things right, and always being cautious before I do things. Mechanics have done poor jobs, and created more problems out of the blue.
07-10-09, 09:45 PM
#2
No technical advice, I'm afraid. But I would consider carefully those things that can go out in that general vicinity (idler/tensioner pulleys, cam seals, water pumps, etc). I had my timing belt replaced 2 years ago. Was told I should replace the water pump at the same time as a precaution, but everything else was fine. Well, the water pump is still going strong but the cam seals and tensioner pulley gave out requiring a repeat labor charge to get at them!
07-13-09, 08:51 AM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
To me if you did it once, the second time is a piece of cake. In one hour everything is all apart again because you have all the correct tools needed and know what is right to do.
07-13-09, 08:58 AM
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
Hi, does anyone know if the crank bolt has normal thread (left for loose, right for tight)? Thanks
Found the answer. Bolt is normal thread, and it is 159 lbs. I have removed bolt that was more than 185 lbs.
Found the answer. Bolt is normal thread, and it is 159 lbs. I have removed bolt that was more than 185 lbs.
Last edited by lexina; 07-13-09 at 09:13 AM.
07-13-09, 09:54 AM
#5
Moderator
While you are at it how about writing a DIY with pics.
Did you use the starter or impact wrench?
Salim
Did you use the starter or impact wrench?
Salim
07-13-09, 11:35 AM
#6
Hi Lexina;
I have done my timing belt, it really isn't that bad. If you have any questions, let me know... If your doing the water pump, you have to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get it off the torx-headed stud. Other than that, its pretty straightfoward. I also did my tensioner, and Idler. I was a little afraid the motor would drop when I unbolted that mount above the belts, but it didn't move hardly at all.
Good luck!
-Barry_st
I have done my timing belt, it really isn't that bad. If you have any questions, let me know... If your doing the water pump, you have to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get it off the torx-headed stud. Other than that, its pretty straightfoward. I also did my tensioner, and Idler. I was a little afraid the motor would drop when I unbolted that mount above the belts, but it didn't move hardly at all.
Good luck!
-Barry_st
07-13-09, 11:50 PM
#7
Hi Lexina;
I have done my timing belt, it really isn't that bad. If you have any questions, let me know... If your doing the water pump, you have to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get it off the torx-headed stud. Other than that, its pretty straightfoward. I also did my tensioner, and Idler. I was a little afraid the motor would drop when I unbolted that mount above the belts, but it didn't move hardly at all.
Good luck!
-Barry_st
I have done my timing belt, it really isn't that bad. If you have any questions, let me know... If your doing the water pump, you have to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get it off the torx-headed stud. Other than that, its pretty straightfoward. I also did my tensioner, and Idler. I was a little afraid the motor would drop when I unbolted that mount above the belts, but it didn't move hardly at all.
Good luck!
-Barry_st
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07-13-09, 11:56 PM
#8
07-14-09, 07:14 AM
#9
Moderator
Good point code58.
The tightening torque puts a stretch force on the threads when you are tightening. Once in place other factors come into play like locktite, metal to metal bonding, heat, rust etc. So the force needed to undo can be higher.
The only exclusion is obviously if it was over-tightened to begin with.
lexina if you do decide to write up a DIY, do share your reach and size of your hands. I gave up on changing timing belt after doing it on a transverse Accord (in-line 4).... reach was not a problem, but my hand/fist was too big to get in tight spots.
Salim
The tightening torque puts a stretch force on the threads when you are tightening. Once in place other factors come into play like locktite, metal to metal bonding, heat, rust etc. So the force needed to undo can be higher.
The only exclusion is obviously if it was over-tightened to begin with.
lexina if you do decide to write up a DIY, do share your reach and size of your hands. I gave up on changing timing belt after doing it on a transverse Accord (in-line 4).... reach was not a problem, but my hand/fist was too big to get in tight spots.
Salim
07-14-09, 07:32 AM
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Hello Salim, good to hear from you. On toyota corolla, camry, nissan sentra, and 300zx, I used the starter method. On honda and and acura, I used a 5' extension long breaker bar since the crank pulley has the holding socket for the tool. The acura spec was 185 lbs, but it was more than that. The impact gun with 350 lbs/ft didn't get it loose. I first used the impact, but the gun seemed to get too hot, then I used the breaker bar. I will try to put the diy together when I am at it if I could get a friend to help me doing so.
07-14-09, 07:36 AM
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
Thank you Barry for the info.
Hi Lexina;
I have done my timing belt, it really isn't that bad. If you have any questions, let me know... If your doing the water pump, you have to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get it off the torx-headed stud. Other than that, its pretty straightfoward. I also did my tensioner, and Idler. I was a little afraid the motor would drop when I unbolted that mount above the belts, but it didn't move hardly at all.
Good luck!
-Barry_st
I have done my timing belt, it really isn't that bad. If you have any questions, let me know... If your doing the water pump, you have to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get it off the torx-headed stud. Other than that, its pretty straightfoward. I also did my tensioner, and Idler. I was a little afraid the motor would drop when I unbolted that mount above the belts, but it didn't move hardly at all.
Good luck!
-Barry_st
07-14-09, 07:39 AM
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
I found another thread here indicating it was 159 lbs, I am a bit surprise it was a little low on torque. I would think it should be about 185, and I am prepared for it. I have removed two of them at that rate of torque.
07-14-09, 07:58 AM
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
I have a normal size hands and I am 5'10. The accord i4 has a bit more room then the acura. there is only about an inch from the side to the acc. pulley. Imagine how tight that is. I thought it was impossible to do, but if you have the right tools it can be done. On the camry 2003, I can get to the TB at any time. The camry does not have the hydrolic auto adjuster tensioner, so the belt got loose over time and I had to get back to it to increase the tension. I think the newer models use hydrolic tensioners. Forgot I did once on cellica too. I do admit the screws that hold the TB covers are hard to put them back. I have to leave a few of them out. Looking at the RX engine bay, it looks like it is more roomy than other cars I worked on before, but I never under estimate on things I do.
Good point code58.
The tightening torque puts a stretch force on the threads when you are tightening. Once in place other factors come into play like locktite, metal to metal bonding, heat, rust etc. So the force needed to undo can be higher.
The only exclusion is obviously if it was over-tightened to begin with.
lexina if you do decide to write up a DIY, do share your reach and size of your hands. I gave up on changing timing belt after doing it on a transverse Accord (in-line 4).... reach was not a problem, but my hand/fist was too big to get in tight spots.
Salim
The tightening torque puts a stretch force on the threads when you are tightening. Once in place other factors come into play like locktite, metal to metal bonding, heat, rust etc. So the force needed to undo can be higher.
The only exclusion is obviously if it was over-tightened to begin with.
lexina if you do decide to write up a DIY, do share your reach and size of your hands. I gave up on changing timing belt after doing it on a transverse Accord (in-line 4).... reach was not a problem, but my hand/fist was too big to get in tight spots.
Salim
07-15-09, 12:07 AM
#14
You have to realize Lexina, that what it took to get it off is not a good representation of what the torque should be. If it has never been off before, I'm sure Lexus (Toyota) torqued it to 159 ft. lbs. when they built the engine. That is what the Lexus factory manual says, and that's what I torqued it to all 3 times I have had it off. I did use med. temp. lock-tite when I put it back all 3 times though. It appeared to have lock-tite on it the 1st. time I took it off, and I know it had never been off before.
08-05-09, 06:04 AM
#15
If you are planning on replacing the water pump your need to remove the cam gears. The back one is the pain in the butt. Their is no enough room. You need to remove the cam gear so that you can remove the cover plate, then you will have full access of the water pump. This plate covers 1/4 of the water pump.