Timing Belt DIY
03-07-11, 08:23 AM
#31
I agree. The Piston inside the Tensioner requires between 300 up to 2000 lbs of force to push it down. There is a little hole that once compressed you need to stick a hex-driver, or other hard metal rod into, which will keep the piston compressed while installing the new belt.
I can say the tensioner on my GS300 with 250K miles is still good, and when I did the TB on it at 225K miles, it was still hard as hell to compress. The one on my RX with 150K miles was also very hard to compress, and still good. Once compressed it takes a few seconds up to a minute for the piston to come all the way back out
I cant remember if our lexus tensioners are spring loaded or use compressed Nitrogen with Oil, but they really dont wear out very easily, if ever.
I highly suggest the idler wheels/bearings however...if they go, bad things can happen, plus it makes your car sound like a POS...hehe
I can say the tensioner on my GS300 with 250K miles is still good, and when I did the TB on it at 225K miles, it was still hard as hell to compress. The one on my RX with 150K miles was also very hard to compress, and still good. Once compressed it takes a few seconds up to a minute for the piston to come all the way back out
I cant remember if our lexus tensioners are spring loaded or use compressed Nitrogen with Oil, but they really dont wear out very easily, if ever.
I highly suggest the idler wheels/bearings however...if they go, bad things can happen, plus it makes your car sound like a POS...hehe
You will get opinions (that IS what they are) on both sides of the isle. I DID NOT replace the tensioner on my DIL's '99 RX, though I had it apart 3 different times and there have been no problem with it. It did stick a little the last time I had it apart, but I just "coaxed" it with a screw driver and it popped right out. I don't personally think it needs it if it seems to have the pressure it needs (you'll be able to tell when you compress it in a vice).
02-20-13, 10:39 AM
#34
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Help in replacing cam/crank seals
Hi I am new to this site, but read the wonderful posting you guys have posted and thus gave me a good knowledge of how to work with a good mechanic as i got duped by 2 mechanics for ginving me a sky rocketing quotation for a simple oil leak and a check oil light. One of them told me that the leak is from the rear VCG and need to change both the gaskets, so i got it changed with the 6 spakr plugs, the other one told me it is a steering pump leak and i got it replaced, but still oil is leaking. on the floor seeping from the chasis and moving back. I had done the TB recently and Serpetine belt with a Toyota Mechanic, and I dont think he had replaced any of the seals and W/P.
I thought this time I will raise the car up and see where the oil is leaking from and i noticed that whenever i stat the engine the oil leaks from within the TB cover and flows down over the upper oil pan, then over the lower oil pan and gets on to chasis and leaks on the ground.
I am not happy with the way things were handled in the past and hence i intend to do it my self.
How difficult is to remove the Cam Shafts (both left and right) and what if they turn while taking the bolts off ? I seen a good video posted on You tube for Timing Belt replacement 1 and 2, but nothing about replacing the cam and crank seals.
Any good video or instructions will be truly and highly appreciated as i dont want to get duped again with the high repair cost.
2000 Lexus Rx300 AWD only 98K miles.
I thought this time I will raise the car up and see where the oil is leaking from and i noticed that whenever i stat the engine the oil leaks from within the TB cover and flows down over the upper oil pan, then over the lower oil pan and gets on to chasis and leaks on the ground.
I am not happy with the way things were handled in the past and hence i intend to do it my self.
How difficult is to remove the Cam Shafts (both left and right) and what if they turn while taking the bolts off ? I seen a good video posted on You tube for Timing Belt replacement 1 and 2, but nothing about replacing the cam and crank seals.
Any good video or instructions will be truly and highly appreciated as i dont want to get duped again with the high repair cost.
2000 Lexus Rx300 AWD only 98K miles.
02-21-13, 02:33 PM
#38
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Hi Lexina;
I have done my timing belt, it really isn't that bad. If you have any questions, let me know... If your doing the water pump, you have to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get it off the torx-headed stud. Other than that, its pretty straightfoward. I also did my tensioner, and Idler. I was a little afraid the motor would drop when I unbolted that mount above the belts, but it didn't move hardly at all.
Good luck!
-Barry_st
I have done my timing belt, it really isn't that bad. If you have any questions, let me know... If your doing the water pump, you have to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get it off the torx-headed stud. Other than that, its pretty straightfoward. I also did my tensioner, and Idler. I was a little afraid the motor would drop when I unbolted that mount above the belts, but it didn't move hardly at all.
Good luck!
-Barry_st
02-03-16, 08:06 PM
#40
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Resurrecting the dead –
Kudos to the posters, especially on #17 and 39.
Though I was not having any problems with original parts at 190k miles on my ‘99, I got the AC Delco kit. The new timing belt had preprinted white line marks on it to line up with the 3 gears - double checking that everything was lined up.
A small mirror on a handle was helpful to check the difficult to see line up marks on the rear cam gear.
After pulling water pump away from block, the 2 e torx studs going through water pump came loose with a PB Plaster soak and a little back and forth torque.
Old belt looked good but there is slight play in the tensioner roller, tensioner plunger appears to be fully extended and will not push back in without using a vise.
Kudos to the posters, especially on #17 and 39.
Though I was not having any problems with original parts at 190k miles on my ‘99, I got the AC Delco kit. The new timing belt had preprinted white line marks on it to line up with the 3 gears - double checking that everything was lined up.
A small mirror on a handle was helpful to check the difficult to see line up marks on the rear cam gear.
After pulling water pump away from block, the 2 e torx studs going through water pump came loose with a PB Plaster soak and a little back and forth torque.
Old belt looked good but there is slight play in the tensioner roller, tensioner plunger appears to be fully extended and will not push back in without using a vise.
02-04-16, 04:21 PM
#42
Resurrecting the dead –
Kudos to the posters, especially on #17 and 39.
Though I was not having any problems with original parts at 190k miles on my ‘99, I got the AC Delco kit. The new timing belt had preprinted white line marks on it to line up with the 3 gears - double checking that everything was lined up.
A small mirror on a handle was helpful to check the difficult to see line up marks on the rear cam gear.
After pulling water pump away from block, the 2 e torx studs going through water pump came loose with a PB Plaster soak and a little back and forth torque.
Old belt looked good but there is slight play in the tensioner roller, tensioner plunger appears to be fully extended and will not push back in without using a vise.
Kudos to the posters, especially on #17 and 39.
Though I was not having any problems with original parts at 190k miles on my ‘99, I got the AC Delco kit. The new timing belt had preprinted white line marks on it to line up with the 3 gears - double checking that everything was lined up.
A small mirror on a handle was helpful to check the difficult to see line up marks on the rear cam gear.
After pulling water pump away from block, the 2 e torx studs going through water pump came loose with a PB Plaster soak and a little back and forth torque.
Old belt looked good but there is slight play in the tensioner roller, tensioner plunger appears to be fully extended and will not push back in without using a vise.
02-05-16, 06:37 AM
#43
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i guess it's too late now but how much did you get the kit for? i did some research and went with the aisin kit which includes all oem parts. there's not a significant price difference but regardless is worth the extra cost considering that many aftermarket parts fail early. all bearings, belts, pump, and hydraulic are all the same parts.
02-10-16, 04:58 PM
#44
I never did the hydraulic tensioner. I compressed my old one both times using a heavy duty C-Clamp, inserted a hex wrench into the hole to keep it compressed, and then released it after installing the new timing belt. Did that on a few Toyotas, and my old RX also.
The only other thing I replaced with the job was the actual pully wheel with bearings, it can make an aweful sound. I used an AC Delco one that had the same size bearing and wheel, it cost 1/3rd what the toyota one did, and has lasted longer than the Original that I replaced at 100K miles.
Pulling the main crank pully is a little difficult, but not as bad as a Honda...those are ridiculous...
to loose main pulley - use a 1/2" drive socket on a breaker bar and crank the engine over (before disassembling the timing belt of course) - saves a LOT of time. I never had to do anything special putting it back on, they dont tend to loosen, my second timing belt at 225K miles the crank pully was still tight to take off.
The only other thing I replaced with the job was the actual pully wheel with bearings, it can make an aweful sound. I used an AC Delco one that had the same size bearing and wheel, it cost 1/3rd what the toyota one did, and has lasted longer than the Original that I replaced at 100K miles.
Pulling the main crank pully is a little difficult, but not as bad as a Honda...those are ridiculous...
to loose main pulley - use a 1/2" drive socket on a breaker bar and crank the engine over (before disassembling the timing belt of course) - saves a LOT of time. I never had to do anything special putting it back on, they dont tend to loosen, my second timing belt at 225K miles the crank pully was still tight to take off.
02-12-16, 09:06 AM
#45
Racer
boy; this does not look like a easy job to say the least. I hope i dont have to replace mine anytime soon. Im pretty sure mine was replaced at 90,000 because Ive put 19,000+ miles on my rx since i got it a little over a year ago without any problems so far. Problem is most shops Ive gotten quotes from want like 1000+ to replace the timing belt because there is like close to 6 hours of labor involved. which is $ I dont have as Im on a fixed income at the present time.