battery decision
07-31-11, 01:01 AM
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
battery decision
Hello my fellow rx family I'm back again lol. So I'm stuck in between what battery is better and last the longest.
Toyota branded battery by toyota dealer. 135.00 + tax with 7year warranty and 2 year replacement warranty
Lexus interstate battery by Lexus dealer. 115 + tax. 48month warranty and 24 month replacement
I currently have interstate on my car now. Which was already there when I first got the car.
I live in the east coast so we go through all the seasons pretty strong.
And I'm worried about what would be the best performanced brand in your personal experience or knowledge itself... thank you
Also I have 00 Lexus rx300 awd nor sure If that makes a difference
Toyota branded battery by toyota dealer. 135.00 + tax with 7year warranty and 2 year replacement warranty
Lexus interstate battery by Lexus dealer. 115 + tax. 48month warranty and 24 month replacement
I currently have interstate on my car now. Which was already there when I first got the car.
I live in the east coast so we go through all the seasons pretty strong.
And I'm worried about what would be the best performanced brand in your personal experience or knowledge itself... thank you
Also I have 00 Lexus rx300 awd nor sure If that makes a difference
07-31-11, 07:55 AM
#2
Moderator
Battery of my choice is Optima Red top. It is not a drop in replacement, you need the tray underneath to raise it and spread the cable/terminal to reach the posts. It is expensive, but is totally sealed and performs well.
Salim
Salim
07-31-11, 08:30 AM
#3
Super Moderator
Optima Red Top also served me well for almost 6 years, most of those in Mexico. I replaced it with a lightweight Deka ETX30L. You can see both how they fit on page 5 of my Car Domain page, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/221530...exus-rx/page-5
In my case, I used a 34/78 model, http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...pecs/34_78.pdf
The 34/78 required me to actually clip the ties holding the battery cables to extend the cables to reach the connections on top of the battery, because the positive was on the right side and negative on the left.
If you use the battery selector on Optima, http://www.optimabatteries.com/battery_selector/ it will show a 34R or 35. The 34R puts the positive on the left and the negative on the right plus gives the same performance as the powerful 34/78, thus you would not have to cut the ties for the cables to reach.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...ecs/34_34R.pdf
At the time I bought my 34/78 back in December 2004, I did not have access to buying a 34R, but wanted the Red Top.
My reason for getting the Deka over the Optima late last year was in part due to the southern climate I live in, the need for a lightweight battery (and not paying more for expensive lightweight options), plus it opens a space between the fusebox and the battery for an air intake tube for an air intake project I am going to be doing shortly (I am measuring these areas and buying parts as we speak (plan not to use PVC anymore for those curious). Finally, I am not intensive as far as electronics in my vehicle, so the need for something more powerful is not as necessary.
In your case, northern climates would steer me toward the more powerful Optima.
In my case, I used a 34/78 model, http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...pecs/34_78.pdf
The 34/78 required me to actually clip the ties holding the battery cables to extend the cables to reach the connections on top of the battery, because the positive was on the right side and negative on the left.
If you use the battery selector on Optima, http://www.optimabatteries.com/battery_selector/ it will show a 34R or 35. The 34R puts the positive on the left and the negative on the right plus gives the same performance as the powerful 34/78, thus you would not have to cut the ties for the cables to reach.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...ecs/34_34R.pdf
At the time I bought my 34/78 back in December 2004, I did not have access to buying a 34R, but wanted the Red Top.
My reason for getting the Deka over the Optima late last year was in part due to the southern climate I live in, the need for a lightweight battery (and not paying more for expensive lightweight options), plus it opens a space between the fusebox and the battery for an air intake tube for an air intake project I am going to be doing shortly (I am measuring these areas and buying parts as we speak (plan not to use PVC anymore for those curious). Finally, I am not intensive as far as electronics in my vehicle, so the need for something more powerful is not as necessary.
In your case, northern climates would steer me toward the more powerful Optima.
07-31-11, 08:33 AM
#4
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I recently bought a Duralast Gold 24-DLG from Auto zone for about $120. I had a Lexus
battery in previously. The Lexus battery had 640 cold cranking amps, the Duralast
has 750 CCA, and a 3 year replacement warranty.
battery in previously. The Lexus battery had 640 cold cranking amps, the Duralast
has 750 CCA, and a 3 year replacement warranty.
07-31-11, 08:52 AM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
Honestly, the Toyota-branded and Lexus-branded batteries are extremely likely to be identical. Certainly from the same manufacturer. I'd wager, Interstate, but I don't remember what my wife's RX had, OEM. I do know that battery lasted 8 years, however.
The truly sealed Optimas are mighty tempting, but if you take proper care of them, a flooded-cell battery, i.e. water and acid, will last forever. If the case cracks, or a plate vibrates loose, well, that's a problem of course.
If you do go with a non-sealed battery, and "maintenance-free" isn't truly sealed, BTW, remember to check the cells every six months, maybe every three in the heat of summer/cold of winter, and if you want to keep corrosion at bay, put an ounce of mineral oil into each cell. Trust me, it works.
There's always keeping them 'fresh' with a desulfating every 6-8 months, but there aren't a whole lot of people who want to do that, though it takes almost -0- effort.
I routinely get at least 8-10 years out of a flooded-cell battery, and each one has had internal plate death or a cracked case which did 'em in.
The truly sealed Optimas are mighty tempting, but if you take proper care of them, a flooded-cell battery, i.e. water and acid, will last forever. If the case cracks, or a plate vibrates loose, well, that's a problem of course.
If you do go with a non-sealed battery, and "maintenance-free" isn't truly sealed, BTW, remember to check the cells every six months, maybe every three in the heat of summer/cold of winter, and if you want to keep corrosion at bay, put an ounce of mineral oil into each cell. Trust me, it works.
There's always keeping them 'fresh' with a desulfating every 6-8 months, but there aren't a whole lot of people who want to do that, though it takes almost -0- effort.
I routinely get at least 8-10 years out of a flooded-cell battery, and each one has had internal plate death or a cracked case which did 'em in.
Last edited by mckellyb; 07-31-11 at 11:25 AM. Reason: grammar FAIL
07-31-11, 09:22 AM
#6
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I put a red top optima in my rx a couple years ago and love it so far. I run optimas in all my cars right now. Bought most of them on amazon, most recently bought a group 35 yellow top for $157, which i think is a great deal.
Trending Topics
08-01-11, 01:37 AM
#8
By the way, do a search on Google for Optima battery problems. Interesting stuff.
08-01-11, 03:59 AM
#9
Optima before Jonson Controls was a super high quality bulletproof battery. Old ones are still on the road and seem to last forever. After Johnson Controls took over quality control went downhill fast. They are NOT the same batteries that Optima built it's name and original reputation on.
08-01-11, 04:24 AM
#10
Super Moderator
I used to see one of those battery plants on the highway in northern Mexico. The Sears Platinum is also a very durable battery. I know a few friends near Tampa that use them and love the things.
12-01-12, 09:51 AM
#11
Optima Red Top also served me well for almost 6 years, most of those in Mexico. I replaced it with a lightweight Deka ETX30L. You can see both how they fit on page 5 of my Car Domain page, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/221530...exus-rx/page-5
In my case, I used a 34/78 model, http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...pecs/34_78.pdf
The 34/78 required me to actually clip the ties holding the battery cables to extend the cables to reach the connections on top of the battery, because the positive was on the right side and negative on the left.
If you use the battery selector on Optima, http://www.optimabatteries.com/battery_selector/ it will show a 34R or 35. The 34R puts the positive on the left and the negative on the right plus gives the same performance as the powerful 34/78, thus you would not have to cut the ties for the cables to reach.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...ecs/34_34R.pdf
At the time I bought my 34/78 back in December 2004, I did not have access to buying a 34R, but wanted the Red Top.
My reason for getting the Deka over the Optima late last year was in part due to the southern climate I live in, the need for a lightweight battery (and not paying more for expensive lightweight options), plus it opens a space between the fusebox and the battery for an air intake tube for an air intake project I am going to be doing shortly (I am measuring these areas and buying parts as we speak (plan not to use PVC anymore for those curious). Finally, I am not intensive as far as electronics in my vehicle, so the need for something more powerful is not as necessary.
In your case, northern climates would steer me toward the more powerful Optima.
In my case, I used a 34/78 model, http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...pecs/34_78.pdf
The 34/78 required me to actually clip the ties holding the battery cables to extend the cables to reach the connections on top of the battery, because the positive was on the right side and negative on the left.
If you use the battery selector on Optima, http://www.optimabatteries.com/battery_selector/ it will show a 34R or 35. The 34R puts the positive on the left and the negative on the right plus gives the same performance as the powerful 34/78, thus you would not have to cut the ties for the cables to reach.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...ecs/34_34R.pdf
At the time I bought my 34/78 back in December 2004, I did not have access to buying a 34R, but wanted the Red Top.
My reason for getting the Deka over the Optima late last year was in part due to the southern climate I live in, the need for a lightweight battery (and not paying more for expensive lightweight options), plus it opens a space between the fusebox and the battery for an air intake tube for an air intake project I am going to be doing shortly (I am measuring these areas and buying parts as we speak (plan not to use PVC anymore for those curious). Finally, I am not intensive as far as electronics in my vehicle, so the need for something more powerful is not as necessary.
In your case, northern climates would steer me toward the more powerful Optima.
12-02-12, 07:33 AM
#12
Super Moderator
It still runs but a word of note from others with these lightweight batteries (and I had the issue once with this battery when I was a way for a week on travel), you need to run these things every few day or stick them on a trickle charger. I can't say the Deka turns over the vehicle with as much force as my old Optima but it does do the job. If I were in a colder climate, I'd opt for another Optima or something similar).
12-02-12, 07:50 AM
#13
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Salim
12-03-12, 05:49 AM
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On another note, I noticed that soon after replacing the battery, my door lock actuators failed
(driver door and rear passenger side door). Coincidental, maybe, but the new battery was definitely
more powerful than the OEM battery. Could this is why the actuator motors burned out??
(driver door and rear passenger side door). Coincidental, maybe, but the new battery was definitely
more powerful than the OEM battery. Could this is why the actuator motors burned out??