chachacha

I have these codes read by autozone and a mechanic....

Does any know the different between toyota 89467-41030 (denso p/n 231-9021) and toyota p/n 89467-48011 (denso p/n 234-9009)?

They're both for Bank 1 Sensor 1 A/R sensor for 1MZFE engines.

Lexmex

I am not sure where you got that other number from, but the 9009 number is the one to use for that sensor in question.

chachacha

http://www.densoproducts.com/

Lexmex

I looked up that number, 231-9021, and nothing came up, then I tried 234-9021, and it brought up Camry, ES300, Avalon, Solara, which have a slightly different 1MZFE engine from the one in our RX300s.

The 9009 is the one you want.

I take it you have gotten these codes repeatedly over a recent period of time and it's not just the first time these codes have popped up?

Usually, I see if they come back quickly and then I know something is wrong.

blueridge

I just got these two codes. P1135 all of a sudden has come on, I clear it, and it comes back within a few minutes. After about 5 cycles I'm getting a p/d P1130 with the P1135.

Looks like the cheapest for OEM 89467-48011 is about $150. Anyone do better for a Denso?

Just to be positive, this is the one on the back of the engine prior to the CAT? Bank 1 Sensor 1? This puppy is popping P1135 every 5 min of driving.

code58

Probably gonna be tough to beat that on Denso. Seems as though someone found the 234-9009 for between $125.-$130. but it's been a little while back. The $150. is very good for the OEM 48011.

blueridge

I just completed the sensor change. Estimated time: 20 min

I soaked the sensor thread area with Seafoam Deep Creep and let sit overnight. When ready to do the work, I fired the engine for about 3 min to heat up the threads.

Then, I disconnected the battery, then unplugged the sensor. Using a 22mm Crowfoot O2 sensor wrench with a 1/2" drive I was able to loosen the old sensor. It was very tight!

Put the anti-seize that came with the sensor on the threads and installed the Denso 234-9009 sensor. Reconnected the battery and took it for a drive for 10 min. No CEL's!

Since I don't have a lift, I used ramps. The hardest part was reaching up to disconnect the plug with one hand. The plug is about 10" north of the sensor, there is a small tab that needs to be pressed, then a good hard pull from the O2 sensor side of the plug.

I was able to find the best price searching for a Denso 234-9009, not for the Toyota part number. Hopefully, they are exactly the same.

code58

Thanks for the input- we all learn that way. It's always a little discouraging when people come for help and get it and then you never hear any feedback from them. The 234-9009 should be the exact same thing as the T/L sensor, it's just that they can sell it that way without stepping on the toes of the car manufacturer they are making it for. Glad it worked out for you. I think your reasoning in the best way to prepare for success was very good!

blueridge

Thanks Code58,

I agree about the sensor, but I was just slightly concerned that what if they tweaked something in the T/L part number. I think I'm ok since I've tested this a little more tonight and no CEL's.

Prior to this change, I was getting P1135 within 5 seconds of every engine start since my post on 7/26. There was no warning signs leading up to this, just like a light switch and here comes the code.

Now, I guess it's time to wait for the other two. Hopefully they will come off ok. I was very worried about the threads, read a lot of problems with them stripping.

code58

Blueridge- I imagine rust is more of a problem for you in NC than here in So. Cal. The P1135 is the heater in the A/F ratio sensor, and it most often develops an open circuit (break) because it is in a very hot environment and the element heats up very quickly when needed. it has to be some pretty special metal to withstand what it does.
My suggestion to anyone who has an acetylene torch is to heat around the outside of where the threads are on the inside. It expands the metal and breaks the bond that the rust creates. Beats the heck out of cutting it out with a torch and welding a new one in.
Doubt that you will have to worry about the oxygen sensor (rearmost one) behind the CC. it normally doesn't give trouble, at least not like the front 2.

kosmo69

just bot an o2 sensor (denso p/n 234-9009) from speedycarparts.com for $128.

shio

Can anyone help:

I just sent my 2000 RX 300 to Ex Lube for oil change, they recomended me to change the power steering oil and flush the fuel injection line. I asked them to do the service. But one day later I found the "Engine Check" warning light is on. I took back to Ex Lube, they used the meter to read the code it is P1130 with message "Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering". They reset the code. I am not sure if the fuel injection flushing damaged anything? or this just need to reset and ignore the incident if the "Engine Check" warning never comes back again.

Thank you for your help.

Steven

carguy07

Probably no big deal. Even if it comes back a few more times over the next week or two, I would just reset the light and give it a little more time. If it does not come back then it's fine.