UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

has anybody here changed out their front bearings?

ive been getting some noise from my front wheels that sounds like a bearing is going bad, i have bad rotors which im changing out this weekend which will eliminate that possibility but if the sound continues i wanna know if im gonna have to shell out the 600 bucks each wheel to the toyota stealership

so if you done it, how bad is it?

thomas1

I believe you have to press them out. If you take the hub off, and take it to your local machine shop with new bearings and seals, I am sure they can handle that....

code58

UNOHOO- i don't know if you have a Harbor Freight in your area but they have some incredibly cheap prices on tools. Buy yourself a "mechanics stethoscope". I will do more for you in diagnosing rotational noises than anything else I know of. Jack the car up and put it on jack stands or on a car lift and run it and (very carefully) listen to the front bearing housings (the non rotational part) with the probe of the "M.S." You won't have to guess at where the noise is coming from. Information is power- eat your Wheaties- don't go in a weakling completely at their mercy. Soon your bank account will be their bank account. Remember if you have an AWD to jack up and put on jack stands ALL 4 wheels! Good luck and let us know how you come out.

UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

yea i could see that playing out very poorly lol

ill look to see if i can grab up a stethescope, would a medical one work? my girl is a nurse and i can prolly get one of those for free

code58

I'm not saying it would be of zero value UNO but a mechanical stethoscope is designed for the job, a medical one isn't. My wife's a nurse but i was never tempted to use one of her stethoscopes on my car or truck. HaHa A mechanics stethoscope has a long slender probe about 12 in. long on it and you can hear noises as well as you can hear "people noises" with a medical stethoscope. You can buy 'em cheap at Harbor Freight (I have 2 of them and I don't think I paid more than $5. for either one of them.)

UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

cool deal, thanks for the tip

UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

heres the part im going to be picking up for both front wheels, anybody got any suggestions? like type of lube to use or anything like kind of stuff, you guys usually like to throw brand names around and debate on how good they are compared to the other brand because of testing that was done back 199X lol, anyway let me know what you guys think

http://lexuspartsonline.com/index2.h...&siteid=214281

thomas1

Well changed the left front bearing yesterday, Started by removing the axle nut (210 ftlb) and then dropped the tie rod end, ball joint from control arm, brake caliper, brake caliper support, speed sensor, and then the two bolts that hold the shock strut to the steering knuckle....
next used a shop press to push the hub assembly out of the steering knuckle, removed the E ring holding the bearing into the steering knuckle and then pressed the bearing out.
pressing was real nerve racking, would not budge, then all of a sudden it would make a bang and move. This was with lots of penetrating oil soaking. Note forget I also removed the dust shield before removing the bearing. (This goes around the speed sensor gear)....After cleaning up everything with fine emery, pressed new bear into the steering knuckle, then the clip, and then the axle hub. Had to use varried size sockets to press on the correct area of the bearing so as not to damage the bearing...So far good, but havent taken out on the highway to see if the drone is gone...I still have to do the right side also, but Now I feel confident enough to do the job. Bought the shop press for $106 12ton...HF....The locals were going to charge $50 per hub to press out...so I am half way there....

code58

Good for you Thomas. One thing I would suggest is to put some lube on the surfaces of the shaft and inner bearing race. A very light coat of grease or even oil, anything to lube. It won't hurt anything, the bearing will be perfectly tight on the axle shaft, but it will eliminate the "popping" when it moves. I realize it's not going to pop when it goes back on like it did coming off, just works better that way.

thomas1

Thanks Roger, I did add a light fillm of oil on the bearing before I pressed it in. The axle shaft is splined, so I greased it....dont want it to corrode encase I have to change half shaft...

code58

Why didn't I figure that you would think of that???... well actually I did, but the easiest way to convey the information to others who might change their own and NOT think of it.
Also good thinking on the grease on the axle shaft. Can you imagine what someone living in "rust country" (read SALT!) have to deal with in a case like that. I even took the wheels off the F-150 not too long after I got it and cleaned the light film of rust off the hub and axle where the wheels fit "hub centric" and put a light film of water proof grease on that surface so that when I pull the wheels, they will actually come off! Those buggers really fit tight and any rust AT ALL gives you fits in getting them off. Can't imagine what the mechanics in "North Country" go through that have to deal with that.

thomas1

Yea Roger, I see pictures on these sites all the time of cars in Snow and salt country and it makes me grimace. I have a feeling our California cars dont have as many failures because of it. Yep lived there as a kid, but I like snow when I can see it 50 miles away on the mountains...Too many years in North Dakota, South Dakota, Massechusetts, Illonois, Idaho....That white stuff is for Christmas Cards...

code58

Thomas, I was born and raised in it. As a kid, it was kinda fun. As an adult, I decided even before I became an adult, that I didn't want to live my life in that weather. Left it and NEVER looked back! I have never missed it for a single minute. The most used wrench in that kind of country is a "hot wrench". I don't think I have to explain that one. Keep the "striker" handy.