aejaz

When I started this morning , again it drained like a 1/4 l of oil.. I checked where its coming from, and it was close to around the filter or just below/above the filter..(Overall close to the filter)

Went to see the mechanic and he also thought or confirmed it was bad filter..
Next door was oil change, the oil change guy kinda showed me his and my old filter
Tried to explain that the one I have is a bad one although it shows the same brand name (Toyota), he said something like second grade..

he also showed me the rubber around top of the filter is kinda loose and opened and also thought the leak is due to the filter..

Changed the filter.. parked the Car.. will wait 4-5 hours and startup to see if the leak/drain happens again.

There were a couple (only 2 or 3) since 3 hours after changing the filter.. which sounded like previous remains (Could be wishful thinking .. !).

Lexmex

I'm not sure what Toyota model filter you were using or how long you had been using it, but in general Toyota filters aren't horrible, they're actually good quality.

However, what you describe about the ring on the filter can be true. I always put some oil on the filter ring like shown below and get a good tight seal. That doesn't mean that the filter seal won't break or get distorted. I've seen that happen with certain vehicles my uncle would get to do an oil change or some other maintenance and he'd sometimes complain about the filter and/or the previous mechanic who did it.

Usually after an oil change I get a few drips, because sometimes some oil spilled on the way out of doing the previous oil change.

aejaz

Dont know what filter they give us at the oil change place..
The name Toyota is there on the filter.. But the broker filter I had seems to be a low quality duplicate made locally somewhere probably..

I did start it up after about 6 hours ..
No oil drops on floor (Washed the bottom after changing the filter )
No oil leak..so far..

Hope this will continue.. But I lost a litre of oil.. I need to refil it, Have to get it from the liqui moli Sales Rep again.. Not available in retain anywhere close to me ..

Lexmex

What other oil brands do they sell in stores there?

aejaz

They sell Mobil, castrol shell , toyota a few other branhs

I think Mobil and castrol are both synthetic and conventional or just synthetic
I already got another Gallon (it says 5l on the box) of Liqui Moli..
Think I have to buy the filter myself from branded shop or dealer.. Os the one you showed earlier
It is available here in Riyadh

aejaz

Lexmex

just to remind you of earlier discussion on oil burning

"Not sure if you are using 20W40 or 20W50, but top end I'd go would be about a 10W40. I've run 5W50 and even a 15W50 very early in the ownership of my RX300 (there were synthetic oil availability issues in the early part of the decade in Mexico).

What Nad1370 is talking about is that the oil itself can seep around the rings and get into the combustion where the air and fuel are mixed. He's advising a compression test (a dealer should be able to do this if they are competent) and see what the compression is in each of the 6 cylinders in the vehicle. Although I am aware you mentioned they did an overhaul on the engine, it's just really strange that you are still getting this issue.

Bad compression in one or more of the cylinders would allow oil to seep into the combustion. One possibility (and it should have been observable when they were working on your cylinders) is that the cylinder walls were pitted/scarred, but even then I find this absurd because a competent mechanic would have noticed this issue if it existed and it would have also affected your city driving, too.

I'd strongly suggest moving to a different grade of oil, say about a 5W40 or 10W40. One possibility that also comes to mind (but even then I'd be scratching my head) is that highway driving at higher speeds with that 20W oil (and that's not an oil that is going to flow as well as a 5W or 10W oil) is just sitting there and getting cooked because there is less flow. You'd probably see that same oil get cooked over a longer period of time if all you did was city driving. However, this would still likely occur over a longer period of time. The 20W40 or 20W50 is definitely well out of specification."



I had a long trip last week, went on with the liqui moli 5w30, strangely it brunt more oil than the standard toyota (20w40 ?)..

Any thaughts from this ?
Earlier it was burning around or little less than a litre for about 800KM
now at 450 KM I see a litre burnt or little more..

As the thicker oil is burning more This looks like the Oil is not returning from somewhere .. I think I will go back to the conventional oil

Lexmex

In this particular case then, you have a real mechanical problem that needs to be addressed. The fact that the oil is burning whether at a higher weight or now more at a lower rate confirms that. Going back to conventional oil won't work here either. They need to do another compression test and fix the issue. The 5W30 is within specification.

aejaz

OIL burning SOLVED
I have some good news.. After replacing the PCV and rear valve cover, I went on highway and even after 2200 KM(1400+miles), no signs of oil burning.. Wow.. this is like a miracle for me..
All the mechanics suggested the engine job, to replace vales rings god knows what all.. which I let them do with no results. Lexus service centre engineer went a step ahead and suggested to do overhaul of the engine..

Picked hints from the thread below
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...lve-cover.html
Thanks a lot to everyone who responded and provided the useful information

salimshah

I thought you would be reading the thread abut burning oil and pcv, since you were among the first who reported burning oil at high engine rpms.

Glad your problem is solved.

Salim

aejaz

Apologize but can not find the real valve cover, but could find another part that I replaced along, the PCV valve part number 1220420040.. Sorry again, but the lexus guys did easily found the rear valve cover easily, I dint have to give them the part number..

aejaz

Thank you Salimshah, But during this process one of the mechanics fixed the valves without sizing them.
The engine makes sound (tak tak tak tak) and heating much more than before, It cools down quickly when running, but heats up immediately upto the middle of the indicator quickly. Not sure what to do now.. mechanics are really stealing me, not so brave to go back to ask mechanic what to do

2KHarrier

I didn't want to start a new thread, so I resurrected this one..

I just got home from an all-day driving trip, and when I stopped for gas after 160 miles, I noticed I was down a quart of oil. I checked it before I left this morning and it was at the full mark.
Well, i topped it off and kept driving. After I got home a little while ago, and driving another 170 miles, it was down a quart yet again.
I had the oil changed about 1800 miles ago with Dino 10-40.

I'm fearful that I may have a ring problem, although the car runs beautifully and I was averaging 23.1 MPG all day, which is by far the best I've been able to do on a long trip. Granted I was only doing 60-62 MPH the whole time.

I don't notice any oil consumption when driving around town.

In reading through this thread, there is discussion about the PCV valve ( I just replaced mine, and I checked both the vacuum line to the manifold and the return line coming off the intake and everything checked out clean and clear.

About the only thing I haven't done is a compression check, which I'll probably have to do next.

Has anyone ever experienced this problem?

2KHarrier

Well, I've put about 170 miles on the car since I posted the last comments, and it has not used any oil. There's been no freeway driving to speak of, except for a mile or two on the way to work, so I'm even more confused now than I was earlier. At the next oil change, I'm changing to a heavier weight oil, to see how that pans out..

2KHarrier

Ok, so I checked it again and the oil level is down about 1/2 quart. I added 1/2 quart of 20W50 and we'll see how that goes.....
I'll start using a heavier weight oil and maybe the usage will subside...............

johnplatt5

i'm having the same issues as you. I bought my rx300 (2001) from a family member who rarely took the vehicle on long trips. she put about 7k miles a year on it over a period of about 8 years. She never had any problems with oil consumption at all. I drive a lot for work and have put 15k miles on it in the last 6 months. At 60 mph or lower the oil consumption is minimal but faster than that I plan on adding a quart about every 250-300 miles. I've probably put in 5 gallons since I have owned the vehicle. I replaced the pcv valve and the rear valve cover had already been updated to the newer style. I've heard from my mechanic friend that generally if it was burning oil by it leaking past the rings I would see smoke coming out the tailpipe when its first started up. I've never seen smoke or any oil leaking, haven't had compression checked yet but without seeing any smoke out the back its tough to think that it would be blowing by that way. I've ran one bottle of auto rx through and have two more that I am going to use on it. nothing i've done has seemed to make any noticeable difference with the exception of just slowing down. I'm going to try to get the car into the shop so my friend can take a look at it sometime but for now I plan to continue carrying a cheap 5 qt jug of oil... This is a common problem but the generic answer of "it's sludged" seems to be the only response. I'd still like to know if anyone has figured out how and where the sludged engine is making the oil leak out