aejaz

Thanks Salimshah and Lexmex again
The engineer at lexus service centre refuse and bypasses my request to do a compression test. Opening the enginie or checking the cylenders is a difficult task on the RX300 (2002), the place is so tight and congested , the mechanics simply try to suggest alternatives ..

I was in touch with an other mechanic , he seems to be a bit reasonable and explained to me how the mechabics usually look for easy jobs and make money.

He said trying the both the sludge remover and Engine oil saver is safe, but he is not very hopeful..

I am trying to find these things of the brand liqui moly , suggested by lexmex, I will call the dealer suggested by lexmex today and see if they have a shop in Riyadh (Is where I live)

aejaz

My car started giving misfires, and compressions test showed no compression one of the cylenders, when opened the head, found one of the vales is totally burnt where there is compression loss.

Replaced valves and piston rings.. compression issue and misfire is gone, but I still have the oil consumption (Reduced little bit)..

Now I have located the Liqui moli supplier in my city

I am thinking of using the Slude remover followed by oil saver

Can Cera tec oil additive help further.

Any advices on whch ones to try and in which order

Also how to use each of those to be used.

Apologize for asking too much,

This will really help and highly appreciated

aejaz

My car started giving misfires, and compressions test showed no compression one of the cylenders, when opened the head, found one of the vales is totally burnt where there is compression loss.

Replaced valves and piston rings.. compression issue and misfire is gone, but I still have the oil consumption (Reduced little bit)..

Now I have located the Liqui moli supplier in my city

I am thinking of using the Slude remover followed by oil saver

Can Cera tec oil additive help further.

Any advices on whch ones to try and in which order

Also how to use each of those to be used.

Apologize for asking too much,

This will really help and highly appreciated

Lexmex

How much oil consumption do you have?

Nad1370

I would'nt put any of that "stuff" in your engine after having new piston rings and valves installed. I also assume they put new oil rings and replaced your valve seals. Did they replaced all piston rings in all cylinders?

As Lex asked..how much oil? how, many miles have you put? driving ethics after the job?
You have to understand that newly installed piston rings need some time to "Break-in".
I also hope that your using Dino oil and not synthetic to break-in your motor.
If your using synthetic, your rings will take a long time to seat and will consume oil unnaturally.

aejaz

Lexmex..

About a liter for 800 KM on highway only
Driving in the city for over 3000 KM dont reduce any at all

Nad
All the piston rings are changed
I waited for 2 oil changes apporx 7000 KM only driving in the city

Then took a little longer drive, 400 up and 400 down,
When returned home at the end of 800+ KM it showed almost 1 liter less (Took one liter to have lid show the correct level)

The mechanic Says
It could be because , we dint change any pistons (Only changed piston rings) or dint do anything to cylenders.

The oil gets thicker or to be specific darker when this happens.
Oil is as is it when not driven on highway (High RPM speeds ?)
I dont go more than 4000 RPMs usually (Around 170 KMPH)

I Brought engine flush from the liqui moly guys, they dont have slude remover
Also brought "OL-Verlust-Stop"
The Liqui moli rep said this is what is called the Oil saver in English countries .
Here its only labelled in German and arabic..

He told me to use this along with oil..

BTW I see some oil on the pan below , which sounded like the main seal, however no drops fell down, just some oil accumulated there.. Never fell a drop (Observed /monitored )
So I thaught Oil saver could help , further it could help to do something in the cylenders or pistons which we dint work on during last engine job

aejaz

forgot to thank you guys for responding so quickly Thank you Nad and Lexus

BTW the liqui moli here also sells Cera tec, can this help in anyway?
Its the most expensive among the lot (Around $18 )..

salimshah

What is the compression of each cylinder? Is it within specification? There are rings, bore and valves which all affect oil consumption. A good mechanic can look at the plugs and tell you about combustion and oil consumption.

Salim

aejaz

Thanks Salim for reading and responding my questions..

Compression is ok for all cylenders, (Around 150?)
Spark plugs are changed during the valve changes (Engine Head job)

Good Mechanic seems to be rare item around here -
Here is what mechanic who did the Engine head job had to say

When the engine was opened, he saw and confirmed that the pistons and cylenders are in very good condition ..


Now he differs himself and says its time for piston replacement and or cylender work.. (New job for him ).

Just called, the mechanic was in double mind when the topic of bore came in earlier during the engine job
He said bore could cause the vehicle to consume more fuel and give less mileage, and he said as this engine is good now, there is no need of bore

I am now thinking he dint do it because he had to remove the cylenders which is a big job
The charges he took is for a engine job are same even if he includes the bore, I only pay bore extra expenses done from third party

Tired of mechanics and the Lexus dealer here,
Now thinking of the Additives ..

I am thinking beyond piston rings where the previous owner's irregular maintenance caused issues, which may go with the additives sludge remover or oil saver etc etc..

hypervish

Try auto-rx if you think you may have bad seals for example rear main seal. Many have succeeded just by using that. It is available to buy on their website at http://www.auto-rx.com/

Lexmex

The Ceratec is useful when everything is a-OK with your oil and consumption (it's expensive, too, so you don't want to use it if it's not the right time).

When you get up in the morning and check the oil level, where is it on the dipstick?

In addition what is the type and grade of oil in the engine right now?

The reason I ask this is sometimes after driving, the level can be off, especially after driving on highway at higher speeds vs. city driving.

The motor oil saver may help in this situation, but first we need to know regarding the questions I mentioned above.

The AutoRx is another possibility but I dare mention that in countries outside of the U.S. (and I saw this living in Mexico), certain additives I am accustomed to here in the U.S. are not readily available elsewhere. Such was the case with Amsoil for instance.

aejaz

Thanks Lexmex again,

I use standard toyota oil , its not too heavy neither its synthetic

When I wake up in the morning before I start the car..the dipstick shows the perfect oil level unless I have done a single highway trip of above 800 KM.

Once the oil level goes down after 800+ on highway, it stays there never returned back ..Until I add the oil

1. I did a engine flush with the Liqui moli engine flush (They dont have sludge remover here)

2. last night I changed oil and added 300 ml of Oil saver...

I used to see a drop or two of oil in the morning on the floor.

Last night I parked at a clean place to check if that drop comes down

This could be wishful thinking, but this morning the drop is not there , the floor is clean

After the engine flush along with the Oil saver additive I see some differences like
1. Idling faster (very less difference though)
2. Smoother, or the engine is quiter than before

I would really like to wait until I go on highway.. once everything is ok I would like to try Cera tec a couple of times for smoother /quiter engine..

You are right about AutoRx and Amsoil
AutoRx can only be ordered online.. customs is a pain in this country ..

Lexmex

On the oil level, if it is reading normal on the dipstick when cold as you should, then there is no problem. Reason why after a long trip you read less is that there is still oil that hasn't gone back down into the oil pan and is still in the upper part of the motor.

However, assuming you start to see some consumption when you wake up in the morning and check the dipstick then I'd offer different advice.

Reason I ask about the oil you are using is that given where you are located, you'd want to be using a heavier oil than what is normally called for. Standard oil is a 5W30, but you probably want to run a heavy W30 or a W40.

Come to think of it, when I lived in Mexico, the BMW dealer had Castrol 0W30 (it was the only place in the country I could get it) and that's the same oil I use now. You might be able to pick it up. If they don't know what it is, ask them for the BMW LL-01 oil. Other than that, going to a 5W40 oil would work.

That environment is prone to causing oil shearing on a much larger level and thus more oil consumption. If for some reason you can't get a heavier oil, then adding the Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver would help with a basic 5W30 oil such as the one from Toyota you are using (I am likely sure it is made by Exxon/Mobil as I recall the one sold by Toyota in Mexico had the same markings). As you mentioned below you are using the Motor Oil Saver and thus that may be helping there already. Let's see what your consumption in the next few weeks.

Shown below is the Castrol oil and the Ceratec.

The first one is the BMW oil I was talking about...same as the Castrol Syntec 0W30 sold in stores elsewhere in the U.S. (see second photo).

Last two photos are the Ceratec from Liqui Moly (to my knowledge this product is no longer sold in the U.S., though I may be wrong on this), http://liquimoly.blogspot.com/2007/1...ra-tec-is.html

aejaz

Than you lexmex again

The oil consumption issue is only when I go long drives over 800+ KM otherwise the oil level never goes down

After a long drive 800+ KM it goes down by 1 liter approx.. and never returns back..

I have to add the burnt or missing 1 liter oil..

After adding liqui moly oil saver , I havent seen any drop of oil on my floor for two days
Otherwise I used to see a drop to two every day on the floor when I wakeup

I have to wait until I go on a long drive to see if the Oil saver have done something to oil consumption as well

Other changes I observed after engine flush followed by Oil saver treatment
1. Improvement in idling (A little faster now ..)
2. Smooth acceleration, less noisy (It wasnt much noisy earlier either , but now better)
3. The pic shown about the CeraTec is the same I saw here with the distributer..
its about US $18 ...
$. Once everything is good and going , I would like to add ceratec once or twice , as I heard it makes the engine more smooth and helps protecting from wear and tear ?

Lexmex

Where exactly underneath the engine were the oil drops coming from, the oil pan or somewhere else?

If you're not sure let me know and I'll point out some areas with a photo that could be possibilities.

Ceratec in Mexico used to cost me $50 max, though eventually I got if for $35 USD.

I wasn't the only one to add Ceratec to their vehicles in Mexico. My friend Michael had a 1993 Mazda RX7 and used Ceratec (rotary engines love to eat oil) and his consumption issues improved and the vehicle was quieter.