RX 300 fuse box
07-31-08, 07:24 AM
#16
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yes thats exactly it the one thats is melting is the ornage big one that u have squared off although i have 3 big fuses there you have only 2 Did you take out the third big one?
07-31-08, 07:27 AM
#17
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Actually that one is blank, there is no fuse that is supposed to be in that position according to my manual.
08-01-08, 11:22 AM
#19
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Ok tested the fuel pressure is at 2.8 So it seems that pump is fine. Damn i was sure that jerking and hesitating was from the pump but seems like its not
08-01-08, 03:39 PM
#20
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Pumps have 2 tests
1. Pressure
2. Flow
Hopefully you have the specs to measure your pump.
Salim
1. Pressure
2. Flow
Hopefully you have the specs to measure your pump.
Salim
08-03-08, 11:16 AM
#22
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The flow test measures volume of fuel pumped in certain time.
Pressure test typically does not have a flow test. [the gauge typically blocks the flow]. On mechanical pumps, there is pressure relief valve which bleeds the pressure and the electrical pumps have a cutout.
To be complete and precise the following three tests complete testing (sorry, I am trickling the information)
1a) Pressure test. [Checks if the pump will be able to push the fuel to the engine block)
b) Lift test, [This checks the suction capability of the pump ,,, may not be needed as the pump sits in the tank]
2) Pressure relief test. [When there is little demand (ignition on, or like idelling) the pump cuts out after building pressure.
3) Flow test. This ensures the pump can provide fuel to sustain wot.
One more thing about electric fuel pumps ... There is a safety built in ... there is a sensor from engine [some thing that senses engine is turning] and if it is not turning the pump is cut off ... this prevents fuel being pumped in case of an accident (fuel lines can be cut). Note: This circuit has a bypass when you put the key in ignition. {you hear pump kick in, in anticipation of imminent engine cranking.
The engineering is beautiful.
Salim
Pressure test typically does not have a flow test. [the gauge typically blocks the flow]. On mechanical pumps, there is pressure relief valve which bleeds the pressure and the electrical pumps have a cutout.
To be complete and precise the following three tests complete testing (sorry, I am trickling the information)
1a) Pressure test. [Checks if the pump will be able to push the fuel to the engine block)
b) Lift test, [This checks the suction capability of the pump ,,, may not be needed as the pump sits in the tank]
2) Pressure relief test. [When there is little demand (ignition on, or like idelling) the pump cuts out after building pressure.
3) Flow test. This ensures the pump can provide fuel to sustain wot.
One more thing about electric fuel pumps ... There is a safety built in ... there is a sensor from engine [some thing that senses engine is turning] and if it is not turning the pump is cut off ... this prevents fuel being pumped in case of an accident (fuel lines can be cut). Note: This circuit has a bypass when you put the key in ignition. {you hear pump kick in, in anticipation of imminent engine cranking.
The engineering is beautiful.
Salim
08-30-12, 02:46 PM
#25
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doesn't really apply to this thread
I have a 00 rx and im having a hard time finding the location of the cig lighter fuse...even on google. No useful information comes up.
The reason I'm asking is because I hooked up my amplifiers turn on wire to the antenna wire which is located behind the rear seat (on the right) and now when I lock the car using the key the car gives off a constant beep/ring. It locks it but the noise doesn't go away so I have to lock it from the inside. And also radio signal us weaker now so I want to use the fuse for the connection. And no im going to connect it to the head unit, obviously that's where its supposed to go, but im not taking the head unit out. I hooked up a line out converter to wires that come out of the front passenger floor right before they reach the factory sub for the rca connection and replaced the sub with my aftermarket amp. Anyway any useful information is greatly appreciated.
The reason I'm asking is because I hooked up my amplifiers turn on wire to the antenna wire which is located behind the rear seat (on the right) and now when I lock the car using the key the car gives off a constant beep/ring. It locks it but the noise doesn't go away so I have to lock it from the inside. And also radio signal us weaker now so I want to use the fuse for the connection. And no im going to connect it to the head unit, obviously that's where its supposed to go, but im not taking the head unit out. I hooked up a line out converter to wires that come out of the front passenger floor right before they reach the factory sub for the rca connection and replaced the sub with my aftermarket amp. Anyway any useful information is greatly appreciated.
01-13-14, 07:48 AM
#27
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I dont have the info on 140a fuse, but if you are referring to high Amp fuses, they are bolted in. The slip connection works for low amp. You have to remove the hold-down and access the nut/bolt from below. Reminder remove the battery terminal before messing with the main fuses under the hood.
Salin
Salin
01-13-14, 07:50 AM
#28
Moderator
I have a 00 rx and im having a hard time finding the location of the cig lighter fuse...even on google. No useful information comes up.
The reason I'm asking is because I hooked up my amplifiers turn on wire to the antenna wire which is located behind the rear seat (on the right) and now when I lock the car using the key the car gives off a constant beep/ring. It locks it but the noise doesn't go away so I have to lock it from the inside. And also radio signal us weaker now so I want to use the fuse for the connection. And no im going to connect it to the head unit, obviously that's where its supposed to go, but im not taking the head unit out. I hooked up a line out converter to wires that come out of the front passenger floor right before they reach the factory sub for the rca connection and replaced the sub with my aftermarket amp. Anyway any useful information is greatly appreciated.
The reason I'm asking is because I hooked up my amplifiers turn on wire to the antenna wire which is located behind the rear seat (on the right) and now when I lock the car using the key the car gives off a constant beep/ring. It locks it but the noise doesn't go away so I have to lock it from the inside. And also radio signal us weaker now so I want to use the fuse for the connection. And no im going to connect it to the head unit, obviously that's where its supposed to go, but im not taking the head unit out. I hooked up a line out converter to wires that come out of the front passenger floor right before they reach the factory sub for the rca connection and replaced the sub with my aftermarket amp. Anyway any useful information is greatly appreciated.
Salim
10-27-15, 05:59 AM
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peeroo
Hi guys thanks for all advice and help but i still got copule of more questions if thats ok 
.
When my RX 300 (year 2000) arrived my alternator fuse 120 Amps was completely melted down. Some other fuses were blown too but not melted this one was completely done. Anyhow we put 100 Amp fuse because i figured its not much of a difference to see how is it gonna last. Anyhow i still havent driven my rx cause i have a jerking problem when i step on the gas and this electrical problem. Anyhow ill get back to the fuel pump later. So every morning id start the car for about 15 mins just to keep the battery happy But 2 days ago i found that the alternator fuse has melted again. So i took it to an electrician who tested the alternator and the regulator and claims that its working fine and that he cannot find the reason why the fuse is melting. So we put some copper wires for a test and found out that they get extremly hot before they cool down. So his solution is to put a much thicker copper wire and let it stay as he cant see any harm in it. Now to me that sounds dodgy because manual says that fuse is supposed to be 120 Amps and not more. Any advice guys or thoughts?
Thanks
Aleks
. When my RX 300 (year 2000) arrived my alternator fuse 120 Amps was completely melted down. Some other fuses were blown too but not melted this one was completely done. Anyhow we put 100 Amp fuse because i figured its not much of a difference to see how is it gonna last. Anyhow i still havent driven my rx cause i have a jerking problem when i step on the gas and this electrical problem. Anyhow ill get back to the fuel pump later. So every morning id start the car for about 15 mins just to keep the battery happy But 2 days ago i found that the alternator fuse has melted again. So i took it to an electrician who tested the alternator and the regulator and claims that its working fine and that he cannot find the reason why the fuse is melting. So we put some copper wires for a test and found out that they get extremly hot before they cool down. So his solution is to put a much thicker copper wire and let it stay as he cant see any harm in it. Now to me that sounds dodgy because manual says that fuse is supposed to be 120 Amps and not more. Any advice guys or thoughts?
Thanks
Aleks
Bought my 03 rx300 with the 160amp ABS fuse blown but coppered. I took time to check all the fuses in the fuse boxes (engine compartment and driver side dash board) to make sure none is blown and all are of the correct amperage, as recommended.
In your case, i advise you unscrew the eng. comp. fuse box and check the wiring to make sure there is no damage, and or wire bridging.
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