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My RX300 has around 125k miles.
Timing belt was replaced at around 83k miles.
For last few years, it has check engine light.
Well before that, CEL was off and on for a year or so but since 2 years it's on constantly.
Here are the error codes from autozone: P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1) P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2) P1150 A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
Not sure why P0171 is repeated twice.
I cleaned the MAF. It was all gray with dust build up. Now the resistors are clean.
That didn't change it.
It was running fine but since last few weeks, it struggles to get power, specially when stopped at traffic light.
Pushing pedal takes a bit before it moves forward.
So have to fix it.
Does Bank 1 mean upstream or downstream O2 sensor?
Can I get by replacing one at this time? This is not my main vehicle.
This is for groceries and short trips around town so don't want to spend dealer price for repairs. Are eBay parts good? I see downstream ones as little as $20 and upstream are around $30.
For Denso, downstream is around $60 and upstream is around $140.
What about knock sensor? Does that one also need replacement?
That thing is even pricier at autozone. It was showing $250 while eBay has Denso ones for $25.
Finally, how much labor cost are we talking if I buy these and have it installed by local mechanic?
Thanks.
I would clear the codes and see which one reappears first. Looks like you may have a couple things going on. Most likely the lean code is a result of a faulty AF and/or knock sensor. Do NOT buy critical sensors from eBay unless you can authenticate (I identify and call the dealership directly) seller is a storefront for a Toyota/Lexus dealership. Otherwise your chances of getting a used or counterfeit part are pretty high.
I would clear the codes and see which one reappears first. Looks like you may have a couple things going on. Most likely the lean code is a result of a faulty AF and/or knock sensor. Do NOT buy critical sensors from eBay unless you can authenticate (I identify and call the dealership directly) seller is a storefront for a Toyota/Lexus dealership. Otherwise your chances of getting a used or counterfeit part are pretty high.
So the eBay parts with Denso maybe counterfeit?
This vehicle won't bring 2500 if I trade in so spending half of that to fix doesn't make sense if I use genuine Lexus knock and O2 sensors plus intake gasket replacement.
If ebay parts fix it for little while, I can at least sell it or trade in without CEL lights.
You think knock sensor is the root for all these codes?
I took the error codes to one local repair shop and the guy said, it can't be O2 sensor.
He said too lean on bank 1 is most likely intake gasket leak and gave me a repair quote of $900. OMG!
$125 for diagnosis and $729 for repairs = $849 + tax.
On top of that he claimed, "We are way cheaper than dealer". Really???
Buy a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and read it with Torque app on android, or a wifi adapter with similar app on iphone. You will be able to get real time sensor data, such as fuel trims, to help you determine what is actually wrong.
Here is one I have had good sucess with
Regards to Lexus sensors, only buy from reputable sellers. I typically only buy new Denso sensors, and only from Amazon or brick and mortar autoparts stores. Even discounted OEM sensors from online Lexus dealers are typically much more expensive than Denso aftermarket. I do not buy from ebay.
For P0171, you could have a bad MAF. I got a P0171 some months ago, and even though only bank 1 was giving a code, both banks were running excessively lean, as indicated by high fuel trims which I monitored on my Torque app. I replaced the MAF with a Denso (the MAF affects both banks) and the fuel trim values reverted to normal and the code hasn't returned.
Since you already cleaned the MAF sensor I believe the lean code in this case is a companion code. You can buy Denso aftermarket sensors from Rockauto or Amazon (not 3rd party Amazon seller). No, I absolutely do not buy from eBay unless seller is a storefront for a legit dealership. I clearly stated this already so do not understand why you ask me again. Deciding when to stop repairing an old car is a complicated decision based on personal circumstances. In this case we are most likely talking about normal maintenance. However, if you have to pay someone else to fix it, it is almost impossible to find a reputable and competent shop which won’t end up costing you several times what it should as they often misdiagnose and install unnecessary parts. Did you clear the codes and see which one reappears first?
It is ridiculous to say it is a leaky intake gasket simply based on the codes. You can do a pretty simple test for vacuum leaks if you buy a code reader/scanner which shows fuel trims. Even without a code reader/scanner, you can test by “probing” vacuum lines and intake with propane. If you have a leak, engine speed will jump up as it sucks in the fuel. Do you have enough general knowledge or experience to do these simple tests?
Buy a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and read it with Torque app on android, or a wifi adapter with similar app on iphone. You will be able to get real time sensor data, such as fuel trims, to help you determine what is actually wrong.
Here is one I have had good sucess with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A
Regards to Lexus sensors, only buy from reputable sellers. I typically only buy new Denso sensors, and only from Amazon or brick and mortar autoparts stores. Even discounted OEM sensors from online Lexus dealers are typically much more expensive than Denso aftermarket. I do not buy from ebay.
Okay, that obd2 reader is pretty cheap so will get one.
Will it be able to tell MAF is bad?
Originally Posted by Lexmus
For P0171, you could have a bad MAF. I got a P0171 some months ago, and even though only bank 1 was giving a code, both banks were running excessively lean, as indicated by high fuel trims which I monitored on my Torque app. I replaced the MAF with a Denso (the MAF affects both banks) and the fuel trim values reverted to normal and the code hasn't returned.
I cleaned the MAF so the only option is to replace it if that's the case.
It was gray with dust and lent and now it's pretty squeaky clean.
Originally Posted by artbuc
Since you already cleaned the MAF sensor I believe the lean code in this case is a companion code. You can buy Denso aftermarket sensors from Rockauto or Amazon (not 3rd party Amazon seller). No, I absolutely do not buy from eBay unless seller is a storefront for a legit dealership. I clearly stated this already so do not understand why you ask me again. Deciding when to stop repairing an old car is a complicated decision based on personal circumstances. In this case we are most likely talking about normal maintenance. However, if you have to pay someone else to fix it, it is almost impossible to find a reputable and competent shop which won’t end up costing you several times what it should as they often misdiagnose and install unnecessary parts. Did you clear the codes and see which one reappears first?
It is ridiculous to say it is a leaky intake gasket simply based on the codes. You can do a pretty simple test for vacuum leaks if you buy a code reader/scanner which shows fuel trims. Even without a code reader/scanner, you can test by “probing” vacuum lines and intake with propane. If you have a leak, engine speed will jump up as it sucks in the fuel. Do you have enough general knowledge or experience to do these simple tests?
Haven't done any of these tests before so I'm new.
I did replace window motors in Camaro before so I can work little bit on cars but nothing yet on the engine compartment.
I don't get how eBay sellers are in business if they sell parts that don't work.
That's different question but if aftermarket MAF at least help diagnose whether my MAF is good or not, $20 is worth the try.
I see some eBay sellers sell 'Refurbished' OEM MAF. Maybe better than fake ones.
Of course if the bluetooth reader somehow confirms MAF is bad, then getting genuine for around $80 is okay. BTW, are online part stores, not eBay, like partsgeek better option?
As for knock sensor error, I'll try the hack of routing bad sensor wire to good one when I get some free time.
I found a local mechanic, small shop who said replacing O2 sensor or similar things will be $75 labor if I buy the parts.
I think that's charge is for an hour.
Now the trick to identify issue and correct parts as he probably doesn't have a lot of diagnostic tools like big shops.
I put like 12 oz of Lucas in the tank to see if it helps any and bought two cans of Techron concentrate plus.
Will try high octane fuel plus the techron on next tank.
I spent $600 last year on new tires, $500 on new starter so i'm trying to keep it going for little longer.
thanks
Just curious, are you sure you properly cleaned your MAF sensor? I ask because many people think they cleaned it but did not. Eg, they think the IAT sensor is the MAF sensor and/or do not know how to identify the hot wires which must be cleaned.
PS. $500 on a new starter! Was it made out of gold? Betcha a thousand bucks all it needed was a $20 set of contacts. Can get a remanufactured Denso for less than $100. If you want to keep this car for a while you should find another shop or learn how to do some basic stuff yourself. Replacing a starter on this car is crazy easy.
Just curious, are you sure you properly cleaned your MAF sensor? I ask because many people think they cleaned it but did not. Eg, they think the IAT sensor is the MAF sensor and/or do not know how to identify the hot wires which must be cleaned.
PS. $500 on a new starter! Was it made out of gold? Betcha a thousand bucks all it needed was a $20 set of contacts. Can get a remanufactured Denso for less than $100. If you want to keep this car for a while you should find another shop or learn how to do some basic stuff yourself. Replacing a starter on this car is crazy easy.
I attached the MAF sensor before and after picture on my 1st post.
Isn't that MAF sensor?
What happened last year was the car won't die.
I took the keys out and it was still running. Towed it to this shop that only deals with OEM parts.
They said the starter was stuck on on position and won't go back when ignition was off.
They replaced and showed me the old one.
I think part was around $275 and labor was around $150, total was round $425 something.
Originally Posted by Lexmus
I cleaned my MAF prior to replacing it, both the wires and brown sensor. Didn't improve the performance.
I cleaned MAF with contact cleaner and also sprayed some on the connectors.
How do I test it with multimeter?
Buy a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and read it with Torque app on android, or a wifi adapter with similar app on iphone. You will be able to get real time sensor data, such as fuel trims, to help you determine what is actually wrong.
Here is one I have had good sucess with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A
Regards to Lexus sensors, only buy from reputable sellers. I typically only buy new Denso sensors, and only from Amazon or brick and mortar autoparts stores. Even discounted OEM sensors from online Lexus dealers are typically much more expensive than Denso aftermarket. I do not buy from ebay.
Quick question before I order.
Is Bluetooth v 3.0 good or 4.0 is absolutely necessary?
thanks
I attached the MAF sensor before and after picture on my 1st post.
Isn't that MAF sensor?
What happened last year was the car won't die.
I took the keys out and it was still running. Towed it to this shop that only deals with OEM parts.
They said the starter was stuck on on position and won't go back when ignition was off.
They replaced and showed me the old one.
I think part was around $275 and labor was around $150, total was round $425 something.
I cleaned MAF with contact cleaner and also sprayed some on the connectors.
How do I test it with multimeter?
06-09-18, 09:03 AM
P0171 P0330 P1150 - 2000 RX300 2WD - Suggestions Please
