Shocks KYB GR-2
01-20-13, 07:44 AM
#121
Lexus Test Driver
Lexmex, EXCELLENT write up and documentation.
I've worked with both coil and leaf springs on probably half a dozen of my vehicles over the years, and while I've never had one escape or threaten to kill me, I'm always VERY careful with them.
I really wish Koni made dampers for this chassis. They are truly amazing in how well behaved they keep body motion. I had Bilsteins on a 24K lb. diesel pusher 40' motorcoach chassis, they had 39K miles on them when we bought the vehicle, and the $800 spent on Konis was some of the best money I spent on that machine.
edit: When I mentioned the Konis, and the cost, for just *shocks*, people tended to freak out.
The difference was AMAZING.
KYB is great, for the price...I put them on my W124 Mercedes and it was transformed, but they're still a class, IMO, below Koni.
I've worked with both coil and leaf springs on probably half a dozen of my vehicles over the years, and while I've never had one escape or threaten to kill me, I'm always VERY careful with them.
I really wish Koni made dampers for this chassis. They are truly amazing in how well behaved they keep body motion. I had Bilsteins on a 24K lb. diesel pusher 40' motorcoach chassis, they had 39K miles on them when we bought the vehicle, and the $800 spent on Konis was some of the best money I spent on that machine.
edit: When I mentioned the Konis, and the cost, for just *shocks*, people tended to freak out.
The difference was AMAZING.
KYB is great, for the price...I put them on my W124 Mercedes and it was transformed, but they're still a class, IMO, below Koni.
Last edited by mckellyb; 01-21-13 at 08:25 AM.
01-21-13, 05:39 AM
#122
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Lexmex, EXCELLENT write up and documentation.
I've worked with both coil and leaf springs on probably half a dozen of my vehicles over the years, and while I've never had one escape or threaten to kill me, I'm always VERY careful with them.
I really wish Koni made dampers for this chassis. They are truly amazing in how well behaved they keep body motion. I had Bilsteins on a 24K lb. diesel pusher 40' motorcoach chassis, they had 39K miles on them when we bought the vehicle, and the $800 spent on Konis was some of the best money I spent on that machine.
I've worked with both coil and leaf springs on probably half a dozen of my vehicles over the years, and while I've never had one escape or threaten to kill me, I'm always VERY careful with them.
I really wish Koni made dampers for this chassis. They are truly amazing in how well behaved they keep body motion. I had Bilsteins on a 24K lb. diesel pusher 40' motorcoach chassis, they had 39K miles on them when we bought the vehicle, and the $800 spent on Konis was some of the best money I spent on that machine.
02-21-13, 12:51 PM
#123
Driver School Candidate
-----------------
Lexmex - Thanks for the detailed DIY. very good reference!!!
I changed out my 2 front struts and mounts last night and here's my insights for success for those who want to DIY this job:
1. Use KYB struts and test them out by hold them upside down and push them down a few time to see if they bounce back normally and listen to the sound they produce when bouncing back
2. Use OEM mount and bearings. Grease them both side of the bearing before installing
3. I used tubing like Lexmex suggested...Got it from HOmedepot $8 for 10Ft, 5/8in ID and 7/8in OD. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.USaDSR2sh8E
18"-19" length is sufficient for each spring, clean up the dirt on the spring portion where the tubing will be on first before install the tubing on
4. Borrow /loan a OEM Mcpherson strut spring compressor tool from autozone or your local part store
5. Use impact wrench...A MUST...if you dont plant to muscle with the coil spring manually
6. I reused the upper rubber insulator....make sure the arrows on this insulator, the seat and the mount line up with the red dot on the spring
7. Use your jack or something to hold up the strut assembly while you putting the top 3 bolts back if you have no helper like me...some of you already mentioned this
Have fun and be safe, wear your safety gears.. I'll tackle the rear this weekend.
02-23-13, 02:42 PM
#124
Moderator
Just read through the entire post. Great information. Every once in a while I hear a slight bumping sound coming from the right rear area, so I'm thinking it may be an insulator or mount??
No noise up front at all, so I will do just the rear's this spring.
Thanks again Lexmex for a great write up!
No noise up front at all, so I will do just the rear's this spring.
Thanks again Lexmex for a great write up!
02-23-13, 03:13 PM
#125
Right Rear bump sound
Just read through the entire post. Great information. Every once in a while I hear a slight bumping sound coming from the right rear area, so I'm thinking it may be an insulator or mount??
No noise up front at all, so I will do just the rear's this spring.
Thanks again Lexmex for a great write up!
No noise up front at all, so I will do just the rear's this spring.
Thanks again Lexmex for a great write up!
Recently I rechecked the tightness of the strut mount bolts and layed myself on the ground under the rear of the car, shook and inspected everything. I could not find a source of a problem with the suspension, or anywhere where the strut/spring, or anything would rub, bind, or was loose. I found the exhaust seemed to be the only thing that I could find that could be making the thump. All of the rubber mounts are intact, but I found if I shook it hard, I could make it contact the frame just enough to make the thump I thought was the RR strut mount. Perhaps after 15 years (and being rear ended a couple times) the rubber exhaust isolators have become a little stretched. After shaking it around, it doesn't thump as much, but I guess I'll live with it for a while. However, it does annoy me.
02-24-13, 09:43 AM
#127
Moderator
You have to be kidding me! That's not what I wanted to hear. This is a common problem?I guess on the good side, as long as everything checks out when I do my inspection, I won't be in need of struts...
However, I will check the exhaust insulators just to make sure they are ok..
03-01-13, 03:34 PM
#128
Driver School Candidate
Yeah, I have the "thump" from the right rear. Lexus replaced strut mounts under warrantee a couple times, then (a year ago) at 14 years old it was getting to me again and thought I should replace all struts, mounts, and all rubber... It was expensive and money's tight, but did it anyway. I bought all the parts from Sewell (our site sponsor) and had them installed at a shop. They saved the old parts for me, so I do know they were replaced. Still the right rear thump remained. The shop that did the work was useless and did not earn any repeat business from me.
Recently I rechecked the tightness of the strut mount bolts and layed myself on the ground under the rear of the car, shook and inspected everything. I could not find a source of a problem with the suspension, or anywhere where the strut/spring, or anything would rub, bind, or was loose. I found the exhaust seemed to be the only thing that I could find that could be making the thump. All of the rubber mounts are intact, but I found if I shook it hard, I could make it contact the frame just enough to make the thump I thought was the RR strut mount. Perhaps after 15 years (and being rear ended a couple times) the rubber exhaust isolators have become a little stretched. After shaking it around, it doesn't thump as much, but I guess I'll live with it for a while. However, it does annoy me.
Recently I rechecked the tightness of the strut mount bolts and layed myself on the ground under the rear of the car, shook and inspected everything. I could not find a source of a problem with the suspension, or anywhere where the strut/spring, or anything would rub, bind, or was loose. I found the exhaust seemed to be the only thing that I could find that could be making the thump. All of the rubber mounts are intact, but I found if I shook it hard, I could make it contact the frame just enough to make the thump I thought was the RR strut mount. Perhaps after 15 years (and being rear ended a couple times) the rubber exhaust isolators have become a little stretched. After shaking it around, it doesn't thump as much, but I guess I'll live with it for a while. However, it does annoy me.
I also have the same issues...I've tried several ways and they did help with the noises
- put the some weights on the rear suspension then take off the top 3 nuts of each strut assembly and spray some white lithium grease at the bottom of each thread and re-tighten each nut to specs
- lube the stabilizer joints
- lube the the sterilizer bushings ...refer to the youtube video here:
good luck
10-18-13, 02:01 PM
#129
There is something else holding the reservoir. I can't see what it is and dont want to force it. Does it slide off to the front or side??? On do you pull straight up on it??
10-18-13, 02:33 PM
#130
10-19-13, 05:40 PM
#131
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/661295-low-speed-rear-end-knock.h
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...end-knock.html
Last edited by MASSMINI; 10-19-13 at 08:19 PM.
04-01-14, 06:48 PM
#132
I'm tackling this repair right now and I've run into a bit of a snag. I can't get my front passenger side strut retaining bolt loose. The entire shock post is spinning. I tried clamping it with a bit of rubber hose and channel locks, but I can't get a good enough grip. How do you keep that post from moving?
Also, are we suppose to grease between the strut mount and the spring seat (or whatever it is called)? I thought the ball bearings were contained. There is a rubbery bit on the new ball bearings, I thought so that the entire unit doesn't spin and the bearings take the brunt of the work. Am I wrong about this?
On a side note, I did one strut and put the hose on the bottom as suggested. I found that by spraying WD40 directly into the hose prior to installation made it pass over the metal incredibly fast.
Also, are we suppose to grease between the strut mount and the spring seat (or whatever it is called)? I thought the ball bearings were contained. There is a rubbery bit on the new ball bearings, I thought so that the entire unit doesn't spin and the bearings take the brunt of the work. Am I wrong about this?
On a side note, I did one strut and put the hose on the bottom as suggested. I found that by spraying WD40 directly into the hose prior to installation made it pass over the metal incredibly fast.
04-01-14, 09:33 PM
#134
Moderator
Bit late, but one is supposed to loosen (and NOT remove) the nut before removing the ends... while there is tension.
Fast forward ... just as carguy suggested use an impact wrench or channel locks on the shaft ... assuming you are throwing them away and you can mar the shaft.
Grease on rubber parts can be bad. You need to know what is the constitution of rubber to figure out which lubricant would be safe. If you want lube to install, I just use soap.
Lot of videos show people clamping the strut on a vice. New strut tubular section should never be squeezed. You can hold it in a vice as long as you pass the bolt and have one nut on the inside and another on the outside of the U. The inner nut prevents the U from being deformed.
As you put it together face the bolts and bounce the vehicle and then torque them down. Dont forget to have it aligned.
Salim
Fast forward ... just as carguy suggested use an impact wrench or channel locks on the shaft ... assuming you are throwing them away and you can mar the shaft.
Grease on rubber parts can be bad. You need to know what is the constitution of rubber to figure out which lubricant would be safe. If you want lube to install, I just use soap.
Lot of videos show people clamping the strut on a vice. New strut tubular section should never be squeezed. You can hold it in a vice as long as you pass the bolt and have one nut on the inside and another on the outside of the U. The inner nut prevents the U from being deformed.
As you put it together face the bolts and bounce the vehicle and then torque them down. Dont forget to have it aligned.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 04-01-14 at 09:40 PM.
04-02-14, 07:51 AM
#135
You know, it's those little details that make a world of difference. I'm using hand tools, 'cause that's how we roll here. For some reason I was worried about the post finish and was using a bit of rubber to not mar the surface which tended to slip. So I may try just putting the channel locks on the bare metal. If that doesn't work, compressing the spring wasn't too bad, and the retaining nut is still on where it was, so I'll just decompress it and if I have to put it partly back in so I can break that nut loose. *sigh*
I was asking about greasing between the mount and spring seat, not for installation purposes, but because a previous poster recently suggested greasing between these two (it's maybe 6 posts back from this). I didn't think you had to do that because of the bearing, but I wanted to check to see if it's one of those "common knowledge" things that gets left out of instructions.
Thanks for the replies.
I was asking about greasing between the mount and spring seat, not for installation purposes, but because a previous poster recently suggested greasing between these two (it's maybe 6 posts back from this). I didn't think you had to do that because of the bearing, but I wanted to check to see if it's one of those "common knowledge" things that gets left out of instructions.
Thanks for the replies.