mroxas

here is the picture of a worn-out front strut bearing... brand new one is fully assembled and closed...

artbuc

These strut bearings come apart easily. In fact, I had KYB bearings delivered apart with bearings all over the box. That's when I knew i needed to get OEM mounts and bearings. Are you sure this bearing didn't separate during disassembly?

1nablxsonr

Heya just got done replacing all struts on our 99' 2WD rx300. Things went fairly smooth, just some minor glitches. Thanx abunch to Lexmex for the detailed DIY. Just knowing the step by step instructions along with the visuals was great reference. We ended up using the stock mounts, did replace the front beariings and all 4 bump stops. We also used the plastic tubing for insulators. The ride feels way better, more control when taking turns. Does anyone know if it's necessary to do an alignment?

C-Stone

Thanks again to Lexmex and all those here who contributed to a very helpful DIY on strut replacement, etc. I just finished replacing the strut mounts, strut bearings, strut dust cover, and bottom spring seat rubber on both front struts on my '99 RX300 AWD, with 137,00 miles.

The local Lexus dealer had told me that I needed all 4 struts replaced at a price of $2200. I tested the struts myself, and they were fine. Just needed the newer rubber pieces, bearings, and mounts. Quieted the rattles and knocks up front to nothing.

I'll add one more pic to the pie. When assembling the struts, line up the red dots on the spring with the bottom strut flanges that face out. Line up the arrows on the upper seat, and the white dot on the upper mount with the red dots on the spring. This will put everything together correctly. Here is a pic:



Also, these OEM spring compressors worked excellently.

Again, thanks to all.

artbuc

How did you test your struts?

Lexmex

Nice photo. I have to apologize that when I originally did this DIY several years ago that we didn't do top part of the assembly. At that time, I had no issue with that area whatsoever and still don't to that day, but I always appreciate people following up on these areas I didn't comment on. I actually have to make an adjustment shortly to the brake pads DIY for a slightly different reason on something I didn't cover before.

C-Stone

artbuc:

1. I pushed down on the each side of the front of the car and watched for excessive rebound. They gently sprung back each time with no more than one and a half "bounces." In other words, you could tell that the oil/inner cylinder was doing it's job smoothing out the "bump" and easily overriding the large coil spring from "bouncing" excessively. (These are layman's terms, I'm sure there is a more "correct" way of phrasing this.)

2. I was working with a friend in the mountains of NC whose father-in-law is a master mechanic (in his 70s) at a Volvo shop in Virginia. He did the same test and told me the same thing. He also rode in the SUV and noted no unusual driveability.

3. After strut disassembly, I inspected the strut for dents or leaks. Absolutely NO LEAKS and looked in good condition. Then I pushed the "chrome" strut into the lower strut cylinder multiple times. Each time it resisted smoothly--in and out. No jerkyness, no noises, no leaks. There are other tests, which a person can youtube, which may help. Like driveability, body roll, etc.

Lexmex: All good! Thanks again for great, helpful posts, with pics.

djaton

LexMex -- good post.
Have 01 & 02 RX300's. WIll be tackling this job this spring as my 01 RX300 at 117K miles rears have a nasty rattle when hitting a bump. I have not noticed any ride issue at all so I am considering just removing springs and replacing the rear mounts and lower spring insulator as required.
I'm pretty comfortable with tools and this looks like a very straightforward job (famous last words?) but I will need to purchase a "safe" spring compressor.

A couple of questions:
- Is there any good way to test where the rattle is comiing from, either the top mounts or bottom rottted/worn insulator? I have no issue with replacing the bottom insulator only if I can get another 10-20K miles out of the stock rear shock setup on this car as we put few miles on it anymore. I'll go with OEM mounts if needed.
- Love the idea of the rubber hose on bottom of spring; but since the lower spring insulator is releatively low price is there any piece of mind to do BOTH the hose and new insulator or is that just overkill?

Thanks in advance

RX300CE

Hello,
how much for those spring compressors ? where did you bought them or do you have part numbers, they are looking great, thanks .

Lexmex

On your first question, I usually have someone else drive it slowly and then listen to see if I can track down the source of the noise. However, the rattle either comes from on top or inside the shock itself (the latter happened to me on the front passenger side shock). I've never heard the rattle with the worn out insulator.

On your second question, use the rubber hose alone. It's not really overkill to do both, but eventually those lower insulators will give out given the type of material.

mno221

Lexmex, i notice you didn't replace your strut mounts any reason why ?

Lexmex

Didn't see a need at the time to replace them. Despite the years in Mexico, they were in perfect shape.

JAB

mno221: If you do replace your mounts, do not use KYB; use OE.

MASSMINI

My KYBs went in this weekend. If you're a one man show the attached pic shows how to support the strut while you attach the three top nuts.

thaeleelyr

I need to tackle this repair by myself. I can borrow the coil compressors from the auto parts store, but I would like any opinions on things I should absolutely not do. I'm looking for advice on possible rookie mistakes that can be made and how to avoid them. I'm trying not to poke my eyeball out.

Thanks