Lexmex

Then add in the following order.

Redline WaterWetter
Toyota Red Coolant
Water

You should be able to get the WaterWetter and Coolant into the radiator without issue, but pour slowly.

I was also able to get 1 gallon or 3.785 liters of water into the radiator, that full total is 7.93 liters.

I the poured in water into the coolant reservoir until the full mark. By then 9 liters assuredly was in the system.

Note: When you pour into the radiator, it might seem like it overflows. Just let the fluid settle into the radiator and then keep pouring. You will know when you cannot put any more fluid in, because the fluid will not settle.

Lexmex

With the radiator pressure cap back on and the coolant reservoir closed, I started up the vehicle and turned the a/c on full and hot for 10 minutes and noted any change in level in the coolant reservoir, I noted none, but plan to take a test drive either later tonight or tomorrow when I go out.

Notice the 99F on the temperature gauge and later only down to 95F. It really was a hot day.

Lexmex

One final reminder, be sure to check the level in the coolant reservoir after you take your first drive and then check on a daily basis every morning and afternoon (assuming you drove it in the day). I keep a bottle of distilled water handy to top off just in case back to the full level.

On the day after I did the changeout, I did notice the level had dropped down to halfway between the low level and the full level. I topped off the reservoir to full and had no problems this morning after about a 50 mile drive.

sarah

Thanks for the excellent DIY info. It was extremely helpful when I recently
changed my own coolant. I usually let the dealers do the coolant flushes, but
I decided to do it myself this time.

First thing I decided was to switch over to the pink Toyota Super Long Life
coolant.(pre-mixed) It comes in 1 gallon bottles. (3.78 liters) I bought
5 bottles, or about 19 liters. Toyota dealer sold it to me at $16 per bottle.
(list price was $21)

(below not my picture.... just a random picture showing the pink coolant)


I managed to drain out nearly 9 liters of the old red Toyota coolant. I refilled
it with 9 liters of the pink Toyota coolant. I also washed to plastic reservoir
bottle and filled it with the pink coolant.

That afternoon, the RX300 was driven for about 3 hours. (half highway and
half stop and go traffic)

I came home and checked coolant level. The reservoir was still nearly full.
Opened the radiator cap and topped it off using about 1 cup of pink coolant.

A couple of days later, I completely drained the system again. This time,
I only manged to get 8.5 liters out. Probably because the car was parked on
a downhill driveway. I closed everything up and filled it up with 8.5 liters
of new pink coolant. Checked the coolant lever several times for a week. The
level in the radiator and the plastic reservoir remained the same.

Now my system should be contain at least 99.9% of the new pink coolant.
Hopefully, this "Super Long Life" coolant will last me at least 3 or 4 years.

Nickv

Ok, I finally got around to changing my coolant. I'll tell you my tale.
First, a visit to a local Toyota dealer resulted in me getting a $19.95/gal container of "Alert" brand coolant. I didn't notice it until after I got back to my car, but that is what I received after asking for Toyota brand coolant. It was the red version and they also had a pink version.

A trip to Pepboys resulted in me getting NOT the Purple Ice or the other wetting agent mentioned by LEXMEX, but Design Engineering Inc's version-cost $9.95. It was blue in color.

So I then tackled my RX300 2000. Got the recommended tools together and discovered that I don't fit UNDER my SUV, so I had to jack it up a bit. But first, I was able to attach a 5/16" inside diameter plastic tubing to the radiator drain and open that up. I got quite a bit out of just draining it. Btw, it looked really red and really clean and I was/am wondering if I really needed to do this afterall???? But I had started so I kept going.

I tried to open the front valve on the block but couldn't easily reach it so I went to the back one and got that one opened quite easily. It DID require a 14 mm wrench. I then went back to the front valve and jammed, and twisted, and poked, and cussed, but could NEVER get a wrench on it or my hand close to it.

Oh, I had taken off that black plastic cover that shields the front of the pan. That was easy off and easy back on. But that front valve.... I just couldn't do it.

As a result, after waiting and cussing a while, I closed things back up and began inserting the stuff. it went fine, until I noticed that the overflow container was still with the original fluid. I had totally forgotten about that container.

At this point, it was hot, I was sweating, and ready to move on. So, I continued filling things, closing things, and then trying it out. It runs fine. After a day, I needed to finish putting in my one gallon of distilled water to fill it back up. I'm happy, but still wondering if I really needed to do it???? I do appreciate everyones' assistance, and especially LexMex.

Lexmex

Mine was pretty clean, too, but that was because I last did mine in December of last year. One hint I can tell you, and I have heard involving the RX300 and some other vehicles is that some people get a P0125 error after some jerkiness after startup while driving on the road. Often, the coolant is just old/contaminated and needs changing in that instance and cleaning it out with some fresh coolant will do the trick.

That I often find true with some other fluids. Just within the last week I had some strange sounds, like short clunks, coming from beneath the engine when I made turns (it would be audible just after I came out of the turn). I found no loose parts, despite jacking the vehicle up in front and having my girlfriend turn the wheel back and forth and even listening to it as she made turns. I changed out my Power Steering Fluid to some fresh Mobil 1 ATF, and it has been quiet ever since.

Sometime today, I plan to show some pictures of an update that I did to the rear differential/transfer case oil change, as changing it out also improved some shifting.

Finally, there are plenty of other coolant additives out there and using one is better than not, at least in my opinion and for what I do and have done with my RX.

metaron

Lexmex, excellent and most useful thread but I have a quick three questions for you that I think whould add value to the thread if you can answer them(which I'm sure you can), they are:

1) What voltage ranges are regarded as safe and dangerous if we do a coolant electrolysis test with a voltmeter with the negative probe on the negative terminal of the battery and the positive probe dipped in the coolant(radiator cap)?

2) What are typical coolant temperatures?

3) Is a radiator flush/cleaner worth while?

salimshah

Lets see what Lexmex has to say, but some of the questions posted here have me scratching my head ..

1) The test of the coolant is with a float like instrument (hygrometer? or some thing sounding similar). Using a voltmeter

2) Are you asking thermostat temp .. (the device is stamped) and that is the temp at which the thermostat allows coolant from the radiator to come in. Once the engine has been running the temp keeps changing based on air flow and how much heat is being produced ... there is no fixed temp.

3) Flush .. should not be needed as long as Toyo coolant has been used.

Salim

metaron

Basically using a voltmeter to test for coolant electrolysis tells you how old/contaminated your coolant has become the more old/contaminated it is the higher the voltage and then the greater the amount of electrolysis that is happening. If there is high voltage then the electrolysis will start literally breaking down anything that the coolant is in contact with like the radiator hoses.

I haven't been able to find an awful lot on the web about it but the general consensus is to change your coolant when you get a 250-300 millivolt reading but if the engine is aluminium then 150 millivolt could kill it.

Just for the record my coolant is 5 year old/40K miles, I have even topped up with mineral water because I didn't know to use distilled and the voltage I'm getting is 0.05 volts/50 millivolts.

I found this this article here titled "Testing for Cooling System Electrolysis:"

http://www.completeradiators.com/articles/34.htm

Hope this clarifies what I was talking about.

salimshah

Makes more sense. But keep an eye on the "anti-freeze" capability which is measured by the other instrument.

Next time add distilled water as it does not bring in minerals that can deposit.

With 5 years, I would replace it. Remember the higher water (distilled) ratio helps run the engine cooler. But you need the anti freeze to prevent freeze-up. You cant go wrong with the premixed (which covers most of USA) but a self mix can be tuned to the location where the vehicle is operated.

Also, stay with Toyota/Lexus coolant. Other formulas can be better, but you will have to do your home work.

Good luck
Salim

maorsela

Another hell of a DIY!!

Thanks everyone for the great info and tips!

I flushed mine, then did a cleaning run with Bar's 10-minute flush , then filled with the Prestone from Walmart, WaterWetter, and distilled water.

Thanks again!

djaton

Thanks for the great post.

I love my RX300 so much I just bought a 2nd for my high school son

The rear drain was a PITA but what helped me was to turn wheels extreme left; then I jacked up pass side via frame member allowing wheel to sag - this gave more room.
Then a 3/8" ratchet; 3" extension; 3/8-1/4" converter; 10mm socket -- gave me 2-3 clicks per turn. MUCH easier.

Problem: I must follow instructions too closely as I saw LexMex's pictures of 2 gallons of Toyota red and I bought too (missed his note on high altitude mix). I must have drained ~9L of coolant (looked great @ 110K miles). Anyway I poured 2 full gallons of Toyota red into the radiator; 1 bottle redline additive; and could get only 1/2 gallon of H20 into the system!

Question: Will this result in a mix of too much coolant - will that cause any problems/issues? I could always go drain say another 1/2 gallon out and use it my next vehicle but I'd rather not have to.

BTW -- I live in South Dakota so at least I'm covered on the freezing end of the scale; I think I have read that insufficient H20 in a system will actually decrease cooling on a hot day - but is this real or just marginal concern.

Thanks all

Lexmex

Welcome to the Club.

Let's see, you had 2 gallons in there of the Toyota Red (3.785 liters X 2 = 7.57 liters), that's about 84% coolant. In winter, that mix you have in there right now of course is okay. Some people I know will go straight antifreeze if they go under zero a lot in winter.

When that freezing is over, I'd try to get that mix down to 65/60% on the coolant side, so really a 1/2 gallon dump would do the trick. The issue with too much coolant for a hot climate may not be seen until the coolant is older, but I would not play around with this at sea level. The engine needs that water for sure come summer time.

Some people I know have a cycle for freezing temperatures, where they would dump 1/2 gallon out in winter, add coolant, drain in spring by adding 1/2 gallon water. That's quite a common thing. Mexico City was a plain anomaly.

carguy07

To strong of a mix will make it freeze at a higher temp, backward of what you might think. 60/40 is the max it should be. You are up around 80% right now which means it can freeze at a higher temp. I would drain some back out and add back distilled water.

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

djaton

Thanks all for the prompt reply -- I'll drain a 1/2 gallon jug and replace with water. Do you think that is enough or should I go 3/4ths of a gallon?
DJ