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Old 11-20-06, 10:52 AM   #16
Lexmex
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12. Start the vehicle and turn on the A/C with temperature to HOT and run the vehicle for about 15 minutes monitoring the coolant level for the first few seconds here on the dash. If coolant level should drop in the reservoir, add coolant as needed until it reaches the full level and holds steady.

If you have opened both engine drain blocks and the reservoir and noted it took 9 liters, you probably will not need to do much with this step.

In the alternative, you can run the vehicle around the block. When I was in Mexico City, it took me 15 minutes of driving before I started to notice anything, but that is a different altitude and climate.
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Old 11-20-06, 12:07 PM   #17
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Very good writeup and photos.

The AWD rear bank drain valve is accessed by removing the right front wheel.

It is the same brass design as the front drain.
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Old 11-20-06, 12:12 PM   #18
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Very good writeup and photos.

The AWD rear bank drain valve is accessed by removing the right front wheel.

It is the same brass design as the front drain.
Thanks, I will have to take a look for that one to see if I can snap off a photo.
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Old 11-20-06, 12:19 PM   #19
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Nice DIY with photos.
Coolant flush is next when I decide to buy a TRD T stat.
To get rid of air trapped, one can stuff a funnel at the radiator opening and squeeze the radiator hose until there is no bubble coming up. Funnel will prevent any coolant spill when you pour more coolant and when radiator burps out air.
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Old 11-20-06, 01:04 PM   #20
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Very informative , what is the purpose of the "not hot" additive and why the TRD thermostat, just curious.
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Old 11-20-06, 06:21 PM   #21
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Very informative , what is the purpose of the "not hot" additive and why the TRD thermostat, just curious.
Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I actually had to go into work today (today is Revolution Day in Mexico).

NotHot or WaterWetter reduces the coolant temperature by reducing surface tension. Keep in mind that in the course of combustion heat is of course generated. Well, in this process hot spots develop in the engine along the path of the coolant. We don't like these hot spots. To make matters worse, the heat in this areas has a tough time being released from the system. because heat generate vapor in the form of bubbles just above them. Well, these products reduce the size of the bubbles and thus heat can more readily be removed from the system. I prefer the WaterWetter over the NotHot, but availability and importation are difficult here. These products also have some good anti-corrosion plus other beneficial benefits.

Some of these companies say up to a 30F lowering, I don't know about that, but stuff does cool my little baby down.

Now the TRD T-Stat (you can get this from CL sponsor L-Tuned parts). It is a PITA to install, but this little device reduces the valve opening temperature from 180 F to 160 F. Thus, the engine runs cooler, more power. Now this of course means reduce heat in the engine bay for cooler air into the engine, especially with short-ram systtems like mine. Again, won't make a huge difference, but every bit counts.

The one other cooling mod is the Tom's High Pressure Radiator Cap that increases the valve opening pressure from 0.9 kg/cm2 stock to 1.3. This helps cool down the radiator quicker.
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Old 02-06-07, 10:47 PM   #22
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Default Engine Coolant Drain Plug #2 for AWD

I was checking my engine oil leak and found what looks like the engine coolant drain plug #2 for AWD. It looks exactly like the one close by the oil filter. Looking at the service manual picture again, the drawing is 3D so it should be opposite of the oil cap, exactly where I found it, down near the front sway bar.
Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 02-07-07, 07:36 AM   #23
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It looks funny in my manual, my cousin and I went nuts looking for it. Thanks for the photo. I was still able to get all of the coolant out, but at the end of this year will try doing it with this one also. Thank god Lexus didn't engineer this where both plugs have to be open, ala front differential/ATF pan.
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Old 07-10-07, 04:51 PM   #24
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Just changed the coolant, I get more juice out of the 2nd drain plug on the engine block. So if one wants to drain off as much old coolant off, needs to open up the radiator drain, the engine drain plug near oil filter, and the engine drain plug near front sway bar.
I will post picture in a separate DIY thread, when I found time...
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Old 07-10-07, 06:23 PM   #25
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Just changed the coolant, I get more juice out of the 2nd drain plug on the engine block. So if one wants to drain off as much old coolant off, needs to open up the radiator drain, the engine drain plug near oil filter, and the engine drain plug near front sway bar.
I will post picture in a separate DIY thread, when I found time...
Excellent. I wondered how much would pour out of that rear plug.
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Old 07-10-07, 09:10 PM   #26
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I did not measure, but it dripped for 5 minutes. My guess the rear bank holds about the same coolant as the front bank.
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Old 07-11-07, 08:46 AM   #27
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Yeah, it seemed like forever and a day to get it out.
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Old 07-11-07, 01:34 PM   #28
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I couldnt find it either when i did the coolant flush and just said f-it. Kinda sad that i found it AFTER i did my tranny flush. Its probably pointless to redo the coolant flush after 2 months right? No need to waste $, i think.
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Old 07-11-07, 02:19 PM   #29
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I think you are good to go. I drained as much as I could out of radiator and both banks of the engine because I am switch to aftermarket coolant. Very cost effective as long as you don't mix Toyota with other coolants.
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Old 06-14-08, 07:06 PM   #30
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I found a second engine block drain plug on my FWD. The location is not entirely "moronic" (as Lexmex suggested), it's probably more logical than the one on AWD. Like the first one, this one is right under the exhaust manifold, but on the other side of the block. Which means you need to get under the car, and you will find it right in the middle, above the axle, the tube pointing rightwards. It will be right next to a little plate with your VIN that's attached to the block.

The black thing in the bottom right is the oil pan, the thing in the bottom left corner is the rear corner of the transmission pan, the rusty thing at the top is the exhaust manifold.

My guess is they moved it from here in the AWD version because you wouldn't be able to get to it because of the drive shaft.
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