81corolla

As best I can tell there is no rear wiper wash fluid reservoir on the RX300.

But I am unable to get any fluid out the rear windshield wiper nozzle. My wiper fluid is topped off and the front ones work fine.

Basic questions:

* How long can I run the wiper pump motor w/o burning it up?

* If the line(s) from the front to the rear are bone dry, do I need to prime it?

* If the line(s) from the front to the rear is clogged, are there any wash out points? Does anyone have a spec. diagram of where the wash fluid line(s) run?

Any other thoughts on how I can debug this?

justfixit

Pump is located in right front fenderwell toward front of vehicle. You can pull fenderwell out enough to inspect without removing anything else. This system uses a single pump but can seperately supply fluid to front or rear.
If you disconnect 3 pin connector from pump motor put your negative lead in center pin. While attempting to use rear washer (with help from someone else) check for voltage on either of the two remaining pins. I cant remember which pin is for front or rear but you will see voltage on one of them. If not you have a switch problem or wiring problem. If you have voltage then the pump has an internal condition.
You can continue to use front washer with no ill effects.
You did know that there is seperate switch for rear and front washer I assume.
Good luck

Lil4X

You may have a case of a plugged nozzle. This is pretty common to a number of washer fluid additives that tend to produce crystals out of the dissolved materials in the fluid as it dries out. These crystals plug the nozzles, producing an erratic spray pattern and eventually plug the opening altogether.

To clear them, take a fine needle (a pin may be too large) and carefully insert it into the nozzle opening and probe around. After a little attention to the nozzle, try operating the washer again. It may take a couple of tries, but once water starts to flow again, it should clear itself (with a little help from that needle again) rather quickly.

It is pretty common for that rear washer to clog, probably because it isn't used that often and then only sparingly. The best remedy for this condition is to use only the minimum washer additives to protect against freezing in winter, and plain water in summer.

If necessary, in the spring you can use a turkey baster to remove the winter mix and refill the reservoir with water. Operate the front and rear washers to flush the lines and clear the fluid from the system.

gp1200x

When I bought my used 99 RX it had been sitting for a few months at least. It had a few bugs and this was one....in the middle of winter too.

They apparently never used the back wiper very much. The lines were full of a gel like material from the washer fluid solidifying. It was a real pain to clear it out...used pressure...but it finally worked out. I hope yours is not as serious as this but be prepared. Using compressed air may help you out but remove both ends first.

flash14

The fluid line runs down the passenger side of the vehicle, you can see it if you pull up the plastic door jam, I saw it when I was doing another job.... clear tube next to the carpet. Maybe you can work the control and see if anything moves in the line..... most likely the nozzle is plugged at the rear window....

81corolla

Thanks for all the replies.

I finally got around to taking apart the rear nozzle assembly and it appears to be the actual nozzle.

I've inserted a small pin in the outlet hole. That appears clear.

I've inserted a small pin in the inlet side. It goes in a little ways and then stops. See the photos to see how far it inserts. It appears to be hitting a gasket or some kind of sleeve. Should I try poking a hole in it?

And I've tried the most obvious thing which is to blow air out. The nozzle is clogged somewhere because no air comes out at all. I presume I should be able to blow air out of it and there's no fancy valve mechanism that requires liquid to actuate.

Should I soak the part in acetone, mineral spirits, water?

From the photo below you can see where the line disconnects. It's looking up from the trunk; panel has been removed. The line on the left hanging goes out hatchback to nozzle. One test would be to run washer fluid and catch it into a container to verify the line isn't clogged. But I need a helper for that so it will have to wait.

I have yet to call the dealer and see if I can order a new nozzle.

Sorry the other photos are a little out of focus.

81corolla

Here's the nozzle photos.

81corolla

See how pin only goes in so far and then stops? I would think it should go in further. It appears to hit a gasket or something. I couldn't find a hole in the gasket.

salimshah

Since you have the nozzle out, try dipping it in CLS or some thing similar ... product that removes calsification & mineral deposits (crud) .. Read the label to enusre no side affects are listed for the nozzle material. [Note do not add this stuff to the reservoir as it may harm the pump].

Using pins etc causes scratches inside and that expidite the onset of furhter crud accumalation. Compressed air is good.

I personally favor buying a fresh replecement nozzle. I hate undoing panels as snaps and their seats get stressed. I am always for a longer time solution.

Also invest in a better washer fluid. They come with less minerals as well have a detergent added on to spread the H2O molecules.

Salim

Lil4X

If you don't have something like CLR that is a weak acid, try a little cheap white vinegar (save the rest to soak your shower head). that should dissolve any lime deposit caused by hard water. Use your wife's good salad vinegar at your own peril.

Whatever you do, don't poke around in there with anything too sharp. After about 20 minutes in the vinegar, try probing a bit with the pin again from both directions. If you want to apply a little more pressure, first grind off the point. As Salim said, you don't want to scratch anything, or poke a hole in something.

The hard work's done, if you want, you can always replace the nozzle. And while you're shopping buy a gallon of distilled water and flush the system with half of it after first removing the existing washer fluid.

81corolla

This will be my next step. The nozzle turns out to be fine. I soaked it in CLR as Salim recommended and then blew compressed air through it. Air flowed fine.

For the future, IMHO, blowing on it with my mouth wasn't the best test as the pinhole is very small and there's a bit of resistance - I really needed compressed air to see that it was open.

Next step: I had a neighbor run the rear pump while I held a cup under the hose. Although the wiper ran, still no fluid. Hmm...

So I asked them to go to the front of the car and listen to the wiper reservoir opening. I blew on the hose pushing air from the rear of the car back to the reservoir. And to my surprise, they could easily hear air bubbles churning in the reservoir.

With that I was pretty sure the hose wasn't clogged. And thinking I might have freed the opening, we tried again, but still no fluid in the back.

I will try to take the electrical connection off the reservoir as recommended by justfixit and test it. I can see it right through the slit in the fender/bumper. I'm afraid tugging on it will pull the whole pump assembly out of the reservoir as the pump doesn't appear real snug. But I'll put a pan out to catch the fluid.

Stay tuned...

Oyvind

To pull the pump out is actuall the way to remove it. It is just pressed into the reservoir. The connector have a lockpin to be pressed down for the reomoval. It's also two hoses, one for rear and one for front washer.
I just changed mine, (from under and in front of right front wheel) due to non of the washers worked. That is also what I find strange, here, since it seems to work in one direction, and not in the other. I thought it would be a matter of work all over, or don't work at all?
Check corrosion on plug. WD-40/2-26 and some fine sandpaper will do the job.

salimshah

Are there two pumps (one for front and one for rear)?
Or there is a diverter (valve which opens when rear washer is turned on)

OKmechanic:

Have you tried sucking on the far end while the pump is on?

I would have thought there would be some sort of one-way-valve and you would not be able to blow from the far end into the reservoir. Without the valve the pump can not create pressure.

One more test can be done. Put the far end in a cup half full of water. Turn the pump on and see if bubbles come out ... [just in case the nozzle provides the valve action].

Salim

81corolla

The reservoir has two electrical components. One is the "low washer fluid warning sensor"; it sits on the front the reservoir and can be seen through the bumper slit.

The other is the washer fluid pump; it's on the back of the reservoir. I got to it by taking the front right wheel well lining off.

The photo below shows a picture of the pump. The hose leading out the bottom left of the pump goes to the front washers. The hose leading out the bottom right goes to the back washer.

You can see that I've disconnected the rear hose above that white plastic "stent". The other end is dangling (top left of photo.) The fluid doesn't flow out of the white stent because the reservoir level is below the top of the hose. But when I lower the hose towards the ground the fluid flows (so line is clear).

I did blow on the other end of the hose disconnected from the stent and it was clear to the back.

When I run the pump, the front washer's continue to work and when I run the rear there's no spillage in front. This would imply either the pump is the culprit or it's not getting current.

I was in the process of draining the reservoir and it began to rain. If it lets up I'll go back out, drain the reservoir, pull the pump and inspect the pump for corrosion or whatever else might be awry.

Salim, it appears there is a diverter of some kind but don't know how it works...

81corolla

I just want to follow up and finish this thread.

The pump was bad. I took it to AutoZone, hooked it up to a battery and verified that the pump wasn't running when given power for the back.

The pump part number is: 85330-20470. I got it from Toyota for $45; Lexus wanted $75. Online is ~$33 + shipping/time. FYI, there are two pumps; one for models before May 2000 and one after - this part number is for models after May 2000.

For reference, I found another thread on replacing the pump:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=159628

FYI, if the pump fails again, I will get a "Y" splitter and simply run the hose from the dead side to the working side. Although fluid will run to both front and back when pump runs, that's not the end of the world. I'll hang onto the old pump should this occur.

One problem I had putting things back together was the hose line in the back leaked a little. I guess the tubing weakens a little once it "forms" and it didn't have as snug a fit on the nozzle as before. The hardware store had it in bulk so I got 12" and now it is snug w/no leaks.

The second problem I noticed is the "low fluid sensor" doesn't appear to work. My reservoir was empty and the light never came on in the dashboard. The bulb is good as it lights up when turning key to ACC.

I even went as far as to disconnect the plug from the sensor on the reservoir and still no dashboard light. Any ideas? It's not a big deal as it's easy to check from the outside.

Thanks for all the help.