Transmission Preservation Driving Techniques
10-18-06, 04:36 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Transmission Preservation Driving Techniques
I am trying to shift out of gear at stop lights/signs to preserve the clutches. While stopped it seems like the transmission is slipping on something, like riding the clutch on a manual, which would seem to consume clutch plates. Is this worth the trouble? The car seems to idle more comfortably in Neutral, out of gear.
I also try to use a similar pattern of driving as I thought I read somewhere that the computer adapts to driving techniques.
Are there any other ways to drive a longer lasting transmission?
I also try to use a similar pattern of driving as I thought I read somewhere that the computer adapts to driving techniques.
Are there any other ways to drive a longer lasting transmission?
10-18-06, 06:05 PM
#2
Lexus Champion
Well, as my personal hero Lexmex has shown screaming up and down a drag strip for years on end, conduct isn't quite as important as maintenance. He probably causes more wear in a weekend than you do in 3 months. 
I would think shifting in and out of gear would be harder on the clutches than just idling at a stop light.
I would think shifting in and out of gear would be harder on the clutches than just idling at a stop light.
10-18-06, 06:37 PM
#3
Moderator
I would strongly suggest not to put in park while at trafic light
Nothing to do with transmission longivity, but to avoid putting the vehicle in "R".
The auto trans is really awesome piece of machinery. Bands act as brakes locking gear based on shaft speed and gear selector. The clutch like slipage is through the torque convertor which also locks up at stall speed. So essentially there is no wear other than bands which act like brakes. [Then there is teeth gnawing and bearings wear.]
The other nice thing about the fluid is that there is no chemical bye products it is exposed to.
The only adverse thing is that the fluid gets heated up being sloshed around.
When you put the trans in Park, you decouple the torque convertor and thus the load on the engine is reudced and it gets into idle.
NOTE: When ppl try to warm the engine by static idling, they are not really warming up their tranny fluid. Could this be one of the factors?
Salim
Nothing to do with transmission longivity, but to avoid putting the vehicle in "R".
The auto trans is really awesome piece of machinery. Bands act as brakes locking gear based on shaft speed and gear selector. The clutch like slipage is through the torque convertor which also locks up at stall speed. So essentially there is no wear other than bands which act like brakes. [Then there is teeth gnawing and bearings wear.]
The other nice thing about the fluid is that there is no chemical bye products it is exposed to.
The only adverse thing is that the fluid gets heated up being sloshed around.
When you put the trans in Park, you decouple the torque convertor and thus the load on the engine is reudced and it gets into idle.
NOTE: When ppl try to warm the engine by static idling, they are not really warming up their tranny fluid. Could this be one of the factors?
Salim
10-18-06, 07:07 PM
#4
Lexus Champion
Shifting from reverse to forward (or visa versa) while the vehicle is still moving and not at a complete stop.
Keep the fluid fresh through multiple changes every fifteen thousand miles, at most.
Keep the fluid fresh through multiple changes every fifteen thousand miles, at most.
10-18-06, 08:46 PM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
Ah, I have a similiar story. I used to drive my mom's G35 around town in tiptronic mode for days until i got my RX. I had always wanted manual, and I used the tiptronic to make it seem manual, and then when I came up to a light, I'd shift into Neutral. After doing it a few times with my dad in the car, he started asking me questions as to why I did that and I always replied, "cuz it's cool."
So one day he came home with an article on that exact subject. It was entitled "Why Do People Shift So Much When They Don't Even Have a Manual?" As I read through the article i began to realize why shifting in an auto is much worse than the concept you think of as shifting in a neutral.
Your RX isn't a Prius. You don't have an electric engine that can shift into neutral just because it doesn't need to move. The article discussed how daily shifting into Neutral inside of just staying idle at a light could significantly burn out your engine. They had said to do a test. If your car idled higher in Park than it did in Neutral they said that would prove their theory of neutral wrong. If your car was meant to idle in Neutral, it would be started in N, not P. Then they showed results of a test they had done with 2 BMW 330i sedans. The test was conducted over a months time and consisted of the same daily driving techniques as you explain. It showed that the car that shifted into N at stop lights/signs had corroded the clutch 3% more than the car that idle in D. THAT'S A LOT MAN! The test also showed no difference in gas mileage gained by shifting into Neutral.
Take it or Leave it,
ajk
So one day he came home with an article on that exact subject. It was entitled "Why Do People Shift So Much When They Don't Even Have a Manual?" As I read through the article i began to realize why shifting in an auto is much worse than the concept you think of as shifting in a neutral.
Your RX isn't a Prius. You don't have an electric engine that can shift into neutral just because it doesn't need to move. The article discussed how daily shifting into Neutral inside of just staying idle at a light could significantly burn out your engine. They had said to do a test. If your car idled higher in Park than it did in Neutral they said that would prove their theory of neutral wrong. If your car was meant to idle in Neutral, it would be started in N, not P. Then they showed results of a test they had done with 2 BMW 330i sedans. The test was conducted over a months time and consisted of the same daily driving techniques as you explain. It showed that the car that shifted into N at stop lights/signs had corroded the clutch 3% more than the car that idle in D. THAT'S A LOT MAN! The test also showed no difference in gas mileage gained by shifting into Neutral.
Take it or Leave it,
ajk
10-18-06, 09:11 PM
#7
Super Moderator
Carver...Gracias. 
I hope to get up to Texas to race closer to sea level. Not sure if this year, or I may try it out in Veracruz.
My father and I actually want to get some videos (it's about time) of my drag races, and we hope to do that this weekend assuming no rain unlike last.
On the subject of the transmission, did you know that the non 1MZFE Harriers have a tiptronic like system?
Well, a couple of more observations of mine over the years:
1) It takes the RX300 about 13 minutes to fully warm up from a dead cold start. I have noticed that doing so results in smoother shifting than if you start it up and start driving (which I do when I go to work).
2) When I go to the track, I usually give my RX about 4 minutes to warm up, so I am positive it can get out of second gear (this is partially an emissions related thingy)
3) Near my apartment there is about a significant hill that I must go down on the way to work. I do not push down on the accelerator when I go down it, I just let gravity do its job and use the brakes. Only time I have ever rammed it down a hill is on a toll road near my house that wraps around the NW side of Mexico City (I want to do a video of this to demonstrate the 112 mph fuel cut off) in order to hit 120.9 mph using forward interia after the fuel cut off.
4) Regular fluid changes. Be religious on it and do better than what Lexus requires. That means cleaning the pan and filter, too.
5) Yes, that lovely
Lexus ECM is adaptive. For example, try loading your RX with a bunch of people, take it for a ride, then have everyone get out, and then drive your RX solo...that RX of yours will feel more powerful as the ECM had to adapt just like it would if it were towing.
6) The tranny cooler that many of you have is an excellent idea.
7) TunedRX300's excellent idea to do an external tranny filter.
8) I have tried racing using the lower gears as opposed to just D. Does not make one difference in my 1/4 mile times.
9) I want to get some tranny modifications from this group, www.ipttrans.com, who has done tranny work for my hero Tony Leung with his 1994 Toyota Camry 1MZFE turbo, http://www.geocities.com/leunghomepage/HomePage.html
10) I also agree with those of you who have switched to Amsoil ATF, and I plan to make that switch when I get back to the U.S. or when Amsoil opens up a distributor here in Mexico City.
I hope to get up to Texas to race closer to sea level. Not sure if this year, or I may try it out in Veracruz.
My father and I actually want to get some videos (it's about time) of my drag races, and we hope to do that this weekend assuming no rain unlike last.
On the subject of the transmission, did you know that the non 1MZFE Harriers have a tiptronic like system?
Well, a couple of more observations of mine over the years:
1) It takes the RX300 about 13 minutes to fully warm up from a dead cold start. I have noticed that doing so results in smoother shifting than if you start it up and start driving (which I do when I go to work).
2) When I go to the track, I usually give my RX about 4 minutes to warm up, so I am positive it can get out of second gear (this is partially an emissions related thingy)
3) Near my apartment there is about a significant hill that I must go down on the way to work. I do not push down on the accelerator when I go down it, I just let gravity do its job and use the brakes. Only time I have ever rammed it down a hill is on a toll road near my house that wraps around the NW side of Mexico City (I want to do a video of this to demonstrate the 112 mph fuel cut off) in order to hit 120.9 mph using forward interia after the fuel cut off.
4) Regular fluid changes. Be religious on it and do better than what Lexus requires. That means cleaning the pan and filter, too.
5) Yes, that lovely
Lexus ECM is adaptive. For example, try loading your RX with a bunch of people, take it for a ride, then have everyone get out, and then drive your RX solo...that RX of yours will feel more powerful as the ECM had to adapt just like it would if it were towing.6) The tranny cooler that many of you have is an excellent idea.
7) TunedRX300's excellent idea to do an external tranny filter.
8) I have tried racing using the lower gears as opposed to just D. Does not make one difference in my 1/4 mile times.
9) I want to get some tranny modifications from this group, www.ipttrans.com, who has done tranny work for my hero Tony Leung with his 1994 Toyota Camry 1MZFE turbo, http://www.geocities.com/leunghomepage/HomePage.html
10) I also agree with those of you who have switched to Amsoil ATF, and I plan to make that switch when I get back to the U.S. or when Amsoil opens up a distributor here in Mexico City.
Trending Topics
10-18-06, 09:51 PM
#8
I have used Amsoil Universal ATF in my RX AWD for over 7000 miles with excellent result.
Some predicted that Amsoil ATF will cause my tranny to develop shift problem. They are wrong, for 7K miles, not a single slip.
I bought a case @ $7.5 per quart shipped to my door last year, which in my opinion a better value than Toyota OEM because synthetic base oil can endure higher temperature without changing its viscosity and lowers flash point protection. I plan to go 45K - 60K before changing, not just blindly but to send a sample of used ATF for spectrum analysis.
At the next drain and fill, which is at least 2 years from now, I will install that external tranny filter that Lexmex mentioned since it takes more time and $ to drop the pan and change the OEM tranny filter.
Some predicted that Amsoil ATF will cause my tranny to develop shift problem. They are wrong, for 7K miles, not a single slip.
I bought a case @ $7.5 per quart shipped to my door last year, which in my opinion a better value than Toyota OEM because synthetic base oil can endure higher temperature without changing its viscosity and lowers flash point protection. I plan to go 45K - 60K before changing, not just blindly but to send a sample of used ATF for spectrum analysis.
At the next drain and fill, which is at least 2 years from now, I will install that external tranny filter that Lexmex mentioned since it takes more time and $ to drop the pan and change the OEM tranny filter.
Last edited by TunedRX300; 10-18-06 at 10:18 PM.
10-24-06, 03:38 PM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
This is a great topic, I am going to try to keep fluid fresh with 15k drain/fills and won't consider shifting to neutral at stops.
this seems hard to do regularly at dealers to keep costs down, can't dimyself.
That means cleaning the pan and filter, too.
10-30-06, 07:21 AM
#10
Super Moderator
Another thing I thought of, don't know if mentioned previously...don't let the gears hang.
That is if you are accelerating (whether you are mashing the pedal or not) and it seems to get at the high whine right before it changes gears and it does not shift up, let off the pedal and give it a chance. Don't force it.
That is if you are accelerating (whether you are mashing the pedal or not) and it seems to get at the high whine right before it changes gears and it does not shift up, let off the pedal and give it a chance. Don't force it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
