Photo DIY: RX300 AWD Transmission Fluid, Pan, Filter Change
07-18-06, 08:44 PM
#46
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by deepbluesk
Hmmm.... Guess that's why I got confused... lol I changed the trany fluid & filter about a month ago, dropped the pan and got out as much as I could... but didn't know the "front differential and/or transfer case" shares the fluid.... I'll remember for next time.
I know the rear Differential uses Gear oil, but is there anything else up front that also uses gear oil ?
I know the rear Differential uses Gear oil, but is there anything else up front that also uses gear oil ?
The rear diffential for AWD uses gear oil GL-5, there is no confusion. Using common sense, the front differential basically perform the same function, so it also uses gear oil. Lexmex's thread has good DIY instructions (although he calls it transfer case). The transfer case, therefore, uses ATF and get filled when you pour ATF into the dipstick hole.
07-19-06, 05:57 AM
#47
Lexus Champion
The drive system is a little confusing ... The Awd and Fwd uses two different transaxles...
Only pretaining to All Wheel Drive models ....
There is a front "transfer case" the drives the propeller shaft to the rear differential. It is constructed of cast iron, like the rear differential unit. It also uses a quart of GL-5 80W-90 gear oil. Front wheel drive transaxles do not have this unit. The transfer case (above) is driven by the front differential.
On the Front Wheel Drive models ....
Both FWD and AWD have this front differential, as it drives the front wheels. It shares the ATF with the transmission, hence, the combination is a transaxle assembly.
The FWD doesn't have a propeller shaft. FWD doesn't use any GL-5 Gear oil.
Only pretaining to All Wheel Drive models ....
There is a front "transfer case" the drives the propeller shaft to the rear differential. It is constructed of cast iron, like the rear differential unit. It also uses a quart of GL-5 80W-90 gear oil. Front wheel drive transaxles do not have this unit. The transfer case (above) is driven by the front differential.
On the Front Wheel Drive models ....
Both FWD and AWD have this front differential, as it drives the front wheels. It shares the ATF with the transmission, hence, the combination is a transaxle assembly.
The FWD doesn't have a propeller shaft. FWD doesn't use any GL-5 Gear oil.
07-19-06, 09:49 AM
#48
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Tammy
The drive system is a little confusing ... The Awd and Fwd uses two different transaxles...
Only pretaining to All Wheel Drive models ....
There is a front "transfer case" the drives the propeller shaft to the rear differential. It is constructed of cast iron, like the rear differential unit. It also uses a quart of GL-5 80W-90 gear oil. Front wheel drive transaxles do not have this unit. The transfer case (above) is driven by the front differential.
On the Front Wheel Drive models ....
Both FWD and AWD have this front differential, as it drives the front wheels. It shares the ATF with the transmission, hence, the combination is a transaxle assembly.
The FWD doesn't have a propeller shaft. FWD doesn't use any GL-5 Gear oil.
Only pretaining to All Wheel Drive models ....
There is a front "transfer case" the drives the propeller shaft to the rear differential. It is constructed of cast iron, like the rear differential unit. It also uses a quart of GL-5 80W-90 gear oil. Front wheel drive transaxles do not have this unit. The transfer case (above) is driven by the front differential.
On the Front Wheel Drive models ....
Both FWD and AWD have this front differential, as it drives the front wheels. It shares the ATF with the transmission, hence, the combination is a transaxle assembly.
The FWD doesn't have a propeller shaft. FWD doesn't use any GL-5 Gear oil.
Originally Posted by TunedRX300
This is the question that should settle the confusion.
The rear diffential for AWD uses gear oil GL-5, there is no confusion. Using common sense, the front differential basically perform the same function, so it also uses gear oil. Lexmex's thread has good DIY instructions (although he calls it transfer case). The transfer case, therefore, uses ATF and get filled when you pour ATF into the dipstick hole.
The rear diffential for AWD uses gear oil GL-5, there is no confusion. Using common sense, the front differential basically perform the same function, so it also uses gear oil. Lexmex's thread has good DIY instructions (although he calls it transfer case). The transfer case, therefore, uses ATF and get filled when you pour ATF into the dipstick hole.
I just didn't want to open a plug expecting gear oil and find I just dumped the new ATF....
07-30-06, 10:23 AM
#49
Intermediate
This is driving me nuts...
I did a tranny drain about a month and a half ago. Drained both tranny and the front diff.
I know this is not a complete drain, but the car only has 35000km.
Now when I drive, the 2nd gear actually jerk the car back. Every other gear are fine(smooth transition).
I've left the car in the garage for over 24 hrs, but when I look at the dipstick, the fluid goes all the way up to hot mark and beyond that mark.
How do you properly measure the "cool" temperature mark.
When I finish driving the car, the fluid is a little beyond the high mark the last time I remember.
I'm not sure if this is causing the jerkiness of 2nd gear.....
I did a tranny drain about a month and a half ago. Drained both tranny and the front diff.
I know this is not a complete drain, but the car only has 35000km.
Now when I drive, the 2nd gear actually jerk the car back. Every other gear are fine(smooth transition).
I've left the car in the garage for over 24 hrs, but when I look at the dipstick, the fluid goes all the way up to hot mark and beyond that mark.
How do you properly measure the "cool" temperature mark.
When I finish driving the car, the fluid is a little beyond the high mark the last time I remember.
I'm not sure if this is causing the jerkiness of 2nd gear.....
07-30-06, 10:32 AM
#50
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by wing0
This is driving me nuts...
I did a tranny drain about a month and a half ago. Drained both tranny and the front diff.
I know this is not a complete drain, but the car only has 35000km.
Now when I drive, the 2nd gear actually jerk the car back. Every other gear are fine(smooth transition).
I've left the car in the garage for over 24 hrs, but when I look at the dipstick, the fluid goes all the way up to hot mark and beyond that mark.
How do you properly measure the "cool" temperature mark.
When I finish driving the car, the fluid is a little beyond the high mark the last time I remember.
I'm not sure if this is causing the jerkiness of 2nd gear.....
I did a tranny drain about a month and a half ago. Drained both tranny and the front diff.
I know this is not a complete drain, but the car only has 35000km.
Now when I drive, the 2nd gear actually jerk the car back. Every other gear are fine(smooth transition).
I've left the car in the garage for over 24 hrs, but when I look at the dipstick, the fluid goes all the way up to hot mark and beyond that mark.
How do you properly measure the "cool" temperature mark.
When I finish driving the car, the fluid is a little beyond the high mark the last time I remember.
I'm not sure if this is causing the jerkiness of 2nd gear.....
07-30-06, 10:41 AM
#51
Intermediate
I followed two guides on this forum.
They both said 4 to 4 1/2 bottle is how much should be drained.
I drained both tranny and front diff which adds up around there.
Hence I just put around that amount back in.
I did drain a bit out like a month ago so that it's pretty close to hot mark, but I never seem to be able to measure with the cool mark. How do you measure that?
They both said 4 to 4 1/2 bottle is how much should be drained.
I drained both tranny and front diff which adds up around there.
Hence I just put around that amount back in.
I did drain a bit out like a month ago so that it's pretty close to hot mark, but I never seem to be able to measure with the cool mark. How do you measure that?
07-30-06, 09:09 PM
#52
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by wing0
I followed two guides on this forum.
They both said 4 to 4 1/2 bottle is how much should be drained.
I drained both tranny and front diff which adds up around there.
Hence I just put around that amount back in.
I did drain a bit out like a month ago so that it's pretty close to hot mark, but I never seem to be able to measure with the cool mark. How do you measure that?
They both said 4 to 4 1/2 bottle is how much should be drained.
I drained both tranny and front diff which adds up around there.
Hence I just put around that amount back in.
I did drain a bit out like a month ago so that it's pretty close to hot mark, but I never seem to be able to measure with the cool mark. How do you measure that?
07-31-06, 06:09 AM
#53
Lexus Champion
You may have added too much fluid. The dipstick tells the tale.
Are you checking the fluid level hot ?
Did you step through the shift selector prior to checking the level; then,with the engine running and in park?
Are you checking the fluid level hot ?
Did you step through the shift selector prior to checking the level; then,with the engine running and in park?
07-31-06, 06:10 AM
#54
Super Moderator
Just FYI so as not to worry too much, my ATF hot level goes up to the IV where it says Type-IV, no doubt over the limit, but have not had a issue...so you have some leeway, but of course I would NOT recommend doing it. 
09-12-06, 08:14 PM
#55
Lexus Champion
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ca
Posts: 1,979
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just finished mine
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I bought 7 quarts and have put in about 6 1/2 so far. Cleaned the pan and all the magnets. Pretty easy and I would HIGHLY recommend everyone at 75,000+ miles do it, I was surprised how much metal I got out.
I did a drain and fill about 35,000 miles ago but today the fluid came out looking like a silvery chocolate milk.
I let the tranny return line pump out the old fluid, it kind of sputtered and stopped so I assume that meant it was empty, never did get the new fluid to come out the bright cherry red color I was expecting. Shut it down and put in another quart and a half. Going to drive around the block a few times and check it again.
[/IMG]I bought 7 quarts and have put in about 6 1/2 so far. Cleaned the pan and all the magnets. Pretty easy and I would HIGHLY recommend everyone at 75,000+ miles do it, I was surprised how much metal I got out.
I did a drain and fill about 35,000 miles ago but today the fluid came out looking like a silvery chocolate milk.
I let the tranny return line pump out the old fluid, it kind of sputtered and stopped so I assume that meant it was empty, never did get the new fluid to come out the bright cherry red color I was expecting. Shut it down and put in another quart and a half. Going to drive around the block a few times and check it again.
09-13-06, 04:23 PM
#56
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
I let the tranny return line pump out the old fluid, it kind of sputtered and stopped so I assume that meant it was empty, never did get the new fluid to come out the bright cherry red color I was expecting. Shut it down and put in another quart and a half. Going to drive around the block a few times and check it again.
Update: re-sized one picture to make DIY instruction more readable.
09-13-06, 05:32 PM
#58
Lexus Champion
The transmission pan and front differential, use the same aluminum seal washers; reusable.
The plugs, both fill and drain, in the transfer case and rear differential use a steel crush washer. I replaced mine.
The plugs, both fill and drain, in the transfer case and rear differential use a steel crush washer. I replaced mine.
09-25-06, 07:14 PM
#59
Intermediate
This is driving me nuts...
I did a tranny drain about a month and a half ago. Drained both tranny and the front diff.
I know this is not a complete drain, but the car only has 35000km.
Now when I drive, the 2nd gear actually jerk the car back. Every other gear are fine(smooth transition).
I've left the car in the garage for over 24 hrs, but when I look at the dipstick, the fluid goes all the way up to hot mark and beyond that mark.
How do you properly measure the "cool" temperature mark.
When I finish driving the car, the fluid is a little beyond the high mark the last time I remember.
I'm not sure if this is causing the jerkiness of 2nd gear.....
I did a tranny drain about a month and a half ago. Drained both tranny and the front diff.
I know this is not a complete drain, but the car only has 35000km.
Now when I drive, the 2nd gear actually jerk the car back. Every other gear are fine(smooth transition).
I've left the car in the garage for over 24 hrs, but when I look at the dipstick, the fluid goes all the way up to hot mark and beyond that mark.
How do you properly measure the "cool" temperature mark.
When I finish driving the car, the fluid is a little beyond the high mark the last time I remember.
I'm not sure if this is causing the jerkiness of 2nd gear.....
why?
The cool measurement was high, so I keep draining until I see that it's almost touching the top teeth mark of the dipstick and drained a little more. Went out for a drive for around 10km or so. Came back, now fluid barely touch bottom mark of hot. I added a tiny little more, hoping I just made it into the "safety" region....but now the jerk from 2nd-3rd gear is confusing me.
Another thing, is it normal for idle to dip below 800rpm when in reverse gear? I'm a little concerned about deposits on throttle body or could it be the MAF sensor?
09-25-06, 07:36 PM
#60
Super Moderator
Just a little update. I've drained more fluid out to see if it helps with the 1st-2nd gear shift. It did...but now it's 2nd-3rd gear that jerks back...
why?
The cool measurement was high, so I keep draining until I see that it's almost touching the top teeth mark of the dipstick and drained a little more. Went out for a drive for around 10km or so. Came back, now fluid barely touch bottom mark of hot. I added a tiny little more, hoping I just made it into the "safety" region....but now the jerk from 2nd-3rd gear is confusing me.
Another thing, is it normal for idle to dip below 800rpm when in reverse gear? I'm a little concerned about deposits on throttle body or could it be the MAF sensor?
why?
The cool measurement was high, so I keep draining until I see that it's almost touching the top teeth mark of the dipstick and drained a little more. Went out for a drive for around 10km or so. Came back, now fluid barely touch bottom mark of hot. I added a tiny little more, hoping I just made it into the "safety" region....but now the jerk from 2nd-3rd gear is confusing me.
Another thing, is it normal for idle to dip below 800rpm when in reverse gear? I'm a little concerned about deposits on throttle body or could it be the MAF sensor?