ravengotu

Has anyone put a K&N air filter in a 2000 300...any probs as i want to put one in

Tammy

I purchased one, ran it for 10 minutes, found no increase in performance, then removed it and shelved the filter. The toyota paper filter is best to use.. Toyota part number 17801-03010.
The K&N has been known and documented as to causing sensor (mass air flow-MAF) problems. This activates the check engine lamp error. The filter oil migrates downstream.
Try searching this forum on the different opinions given in the past. Some swear by the filter. MAF sensors run about $180.

Lexmex

When I first installed a K&N filter...I could feel a slight difference under throttle but nothing to write home about. Later, I cleaned off the oil and only oiled the front side. I too had the MAF sensor problem.

tcheung87

Hrmm, I've been running the K&N for a while now and haven't had any problems nor have I switched to anything else. I do notice the slight increase in throttle response but then again I switched when my paper filter was extremely dirty and ready for replacement. I'm happy with it though.

TunedRX300

MAF can be cleaned with carb cleaner under 5 minutes, if one is clumsy enough to overoil the filter. K&N improves air flow slightly at the expense of letting some particles through. But Toyota's paper filter also let in particles, people feel comfortable at the trade off level Toyota designed it because

1) they don't know Toyota already made the tradeoff for them
2) concerns about warranty. Yes, K&N over use Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, but Toyota can not void warranty for aftermarket filters, if a specific OEM part is required then Toyota must make it free for owners.
3) buy everything OEM - wonder why people keeps going back to crappy tires that came with cars for replacement?
4) How to change air filter, I will let Lexus change it!

My car prior to RX is a 94 Nissan Altima. I had it for over 80K with K&N, never had any problem.
I never had any problem with K&N in my RX, oil does not come off the pre-oiled K&N filter and cause a MAF cel code for me. I switch back to OEM during summer dusty months, and use K&N for the rest of the year. But that is just me.

Grumpa72

A lot of folks use K & N filters trying to squeeze out an extra horsepower or two. The cost is greater particulate matter that is allowed through the K & N. As they say, "there ain't no free lunch here." In the classic muscle car world, there are two groups of folks - those that want to keep the things alive without an engine rebuild as long as possible and those that want as much horsepower from their old muscle cars. I belong in the former and use the stock paper filter for maximum filtering efficiency. I don't have any K & N filters on any of my four cars, and that includes my old Corvette.

Gary

Pheonix

Why? They don't do **** performance wise, they're expencive, and they come with a very thin oil that will completely dry out quickly, requiring you to buy a $12-20 reoiling kit & go through that BS hassle a year later
Buy a normal filter. They're cheap & work just as good. When they get dirty, throw them away & replace it instead of fooling around with K&N's crap. You also won't ahve to both cleaning your MAF if it get's oily because you over-lubricate it when you re-oil it. Which is what most people do every time they oil one b/c they don't know WTF they're doing.


K&N sucks donkey tit, buy something else.
The simple fact is that a K&N filter WILL NOT increase performance, or responce in any way over a CLEAN filter. Performance increases come from a placebo effect & that you're "paying extra special attention in the hope that you didn't just waste $40-75".


ugh K&N is a crock. Get on ebay & buy a MAF adapter for $10 that comes with a generic cone filter. Atleast then you *might* pick up a few peak horsepower & you'll actually have an intake sound indicative of a custom intake on a hot engine.

TunedRX300

Irontoad sells OEM filter for $13.66 plus shipping, www.ajusa.com has K&N reoil kit for $8.51, shipped free when order with the filter $35.86. For me, it is a lot cheaper in the long run.
Ebay filter is not cotton gauze, foam breaks down over time.
If filter effeciency is the ultimate goal, why don't car maker design two OEM filter in sequence? Ever wonder why no one makes a HEPA filter in cars?
Flow and filteration are conflicting requirements, choose according to one's needs.
My $0.02.

StrmRdr23

i picked up the TRD drop in filter for my 2000 rx300 and ran it for about a year...i felt it increased my hp a little in the top end but my lower end suffered. this is all dyno'd by the seat of my pants, btw...i had installed a jdm exhaust on my rx at the time as well so i don't know what had the greater effect, either...while i had the trd filter in, i had several issues with my MAF. after cleaning the MAF, it was fine again. i have since switched back to the oem filter i haven't had any other issues with MAF. i don't think the minimal performance increase (if any) justified the price of the TRD filter over the oem paper one. the TRD filter is made by k&n from what i understand. you might have better luck with the tom's one. blitz also makes a drop in filter as well. good luck and post your results.

TunedRX300

Most aftermarket exhaust with bigger pipe and higher flow lose low end torque but gain on the high side.
Replacement paper filter is big business, $20 a pop, used filter has no residual value - no one wil buy an used dirty paper but people will buy re-usable used ones. Not defending K&N but just state a fact.

tcheung87

TunedRX300, I know you have a custom air intake, but I was looking into the Weapon-R one since I know my 1MZFE probably needs more than a K&N to really get going. Do you think the Weapon-R intake is a good investment? I don't like short-ram designs and I was wondering well if I could fabricate, or have someone fabricate a pipe that would extend the air filter all the way to where your RX is getting the air would it be worth it? I don't like where the intake would go if you just bought and installed it right behind the battery, and the Ram Air Kit from WR confuses me.

-tc

TunedRX300

You are right, short ram sucks warm air inside the engine bar. Weapn R is no exception, if you can extend the pipe outside the engine bay where stock resonator is, you benefit colder inlet air and higher flow. Lemex has the Weapon R pipe and has a setup similiar to what you described, your idea should work.
I prefer stock plastic because it insulates better than metal tube. Where you put the filter is your choice, altough lowering the filter closer to road dirts means you need to clean it more often. My idea came from Comptech's Icebox - plastic housing to encapsulate a short ram, then add an air horn collector outside the engine bay.

Lexmex

My mods are definitely illegal in California.

Anyways, I originally had the Weapon-R filter (now on my cousin's Golf) and attempted to get it to work. When I had it one there, I would press the accelerator and it would hit 3,000 RPM this enormous roar would come out. I did not think I got the thrust I wanted...then again I am at altitude. I tried to order the Weapon-R cold air box, but it was on back order forever. Those Weapon-R products are CARB approved.

TunedRX300 is right that the plastic will insulate better. With my heat shield I often touch behind it after an hour of racing and it is still cold. Even the heat shield seems cold. Now, I do have a lot of other modifications that keep the engine cooler.

Best place to start would be to remove the air resonator and see what kind of power gain you get from that.

tcheung87

That's what I was thinking Lexmex, gotta remove the restriction first. I actually am quite fond of the idea of tuning my RX, for sports-luxury =).

-tc

anulex

i looooovvvee tge sound of the performance cone filter that HAD on my rx. i am now trying to ge that using the stock intake box. after spending $404 fo 2 air/fuel sensors i am now using oem filter. i actually signed on to clublex to a search on K&N filter issues and find a new discussion. its crazy i had one on all my Hondas. no problem. put one on lex for 3mths. ckeck engine light would come on but go off in day. but finally it came on. wouldn't come off and started showing a max of 11/12 mpg. then i knew i was in real trouble. so until some one can prove different no more K&N for me btw was is the MAF? and whats it purpose?