RX300 Brake Bleeder Screw Replacement DIY

[TunedRX300]

My 2000 RX300 is way overdue for a brake fluid flush. Ordered ATE Superblue brake fluid but both rear brake bleeder screws are so rusted that valves can not be opened. I ordered new screws from www.speedbleeder.com instead of Toyota since these screws have little balls to prevent air coming into calipers during bleeding or flushing. Self locking valves make future bleeding and flushing much easier.
Replacement is easy. Parts: 4 new bleeder screws (SB7100 7mx1.0 for the rear), 1 liter of brake fluid. Tools: 8mm open wrench (Lexus tool bag has one), 8mm six point socket, ratchet, clear plastic hose, empty bottle to collect used brake fluid, Lexus jack and lug nuts wrench (22mm socket and torque wrench, optional) and a pair of Latex gloves.

[TunedRX300]

First step, I laid out my tools and parts. I like ATE Superblue because has a different color, makes it easier to tell when to stop bleeding later. Another reason dry boiling point 536°F, wet boiling point 392°F, a lot better than most DOT 4.

[TunedRX300]

Put parking brakes on, loosen lug nuts, take off the wheel after you jack up the car at the appropriate jack point. Use the 8mm six point socket to take old bleeder screw off the caliper. Use your empty bottle or a shop towel to collect brake fluid. Don't spill it over any painted area of the car.

[TunedRX300]

Thread a new bleeder screw on the caliper. Notice new bleeder has special paint to make a good seal.

[TunedRX300]

Open up the bleeder valve with 8mm open wrench. Attach hose, pump brakes, and stop when the fluid color change if you want to flush all old fluid out. If you just want to bleed the air out, stop when there is no bubble.

[TunedRX300]

Pop the hood and twist the brake fluid reservior open, add new brake fluid, don't let it dip below low level when you bleed.

[TunedRX300]

Close the valve with 8mm open wrench. Be careful not to over-tighten it. Pump the brake to make sure no fluid is coming out and cap the valve.

[TunedRX300]

Put the wheel back, torque lug nuts to 76 lbs-ft, and you are done on one caliper. Repeat for other three calipers and you are done.
Last picture is a side by side shot of a rusted bleeder screw vs. the new one. Speedbleeder also sells stainless steel ones if road salt is a concern.

[edgy]

sweeet!!!!


excellent DIY thanks

[TunedRX300]

Thanks, another member Fern asked me where to get the bleeder hose from another thread. I bought from a local auto store Pepboys or Autozone or Napa for around $8. Good thing is they have various rubber adaptors to fit different bleeder screws. When I bleed my Acura TL, I used a different rubber adaptor.
Also I forgot to mention that Toyota wanted $5 per bleeder screw for the Highlander, needs to special order, and make a trip to the dealer. I assume Lexus will charge even more so when I found out that Speedbleeder is $14 per pair plus shipping, it is an easy decision for me.

[edgy]

now if I can just figure out, wht size speed bleeder i need for the STOPTECHs !!?

[TunedRX300]

Originally Posted by edgy

now if I can just figure out, wht size speed bleeder i need for the STOPTECHs !!?

Email Stoptech or Speedbleeder, I believe I saw some BBK include speedbleeder screws. Stoptech has great products and good collection of white papers on brakes. I learned from one of their white paper the disadvantage of one man pressure bleed kit (generate 20 psi of compressed air to force new fluid into the system while you are tring to bleed air out of the old fluid ). With speedbleeder screws mounted, you can pour brake fluid directly from its vaccuum sealed can into the brake reservior.

[edgy]

Originally Posted by TunedRX300

Email Stoptech or Speedbleeder, I believe I saw some BBK include speedbleeder screws. Stoptech has great products and good collection of white papers on brakes. I learned from one of their white paper the disadvantage of one man pressure bleed kit (generate 20 psi of compressed air to force new fluid into the system while you are tring to bleed air out of the old fluid ). That is another reason I picked Speedbleeder screws: one man kit, no air pumped into my ATE Superblue. Brake fluid is directly poured from a vaccuum sealed can into the brake reservior.

Thanks again.. i am orfdering my set of 4 for the RX & a set for the rear of my IS & one set for the Stop techs... Those use the M10x1.0 SB1010s or SB1010 depending on length....

one Q, you list SB7100-7mx1.0 "for the REAR".. .do the fonts use a different SB model...

?

[TunedRX300]

Originally Posted by edgy

Thanks again.. i am orfdering my set of 4 for the RX & a set for the rear of my IS & one set for the Stop techs... Those use the M10x1.0 SB1010s or SB1010 depending on length....

one Q, you list SB7100-7mx1.0 "for the REAR".. .do the fonts use a different SB model...

?

I only installed rear ones, front ones I am upgrading to Rotora BBK so I will have to contact speedbleeder also.

[Fern]

Hey Tunedrx300

I thought I would share this link with everyone (without the intention of swaying the crowd one way or the other).

Just as a FYI and take it for what its worth.

David Zeckhausen is well known in BMW circles for his knowledge of clutch and brake hydraulic mechanisms and high performance applications.

here is a link to what he says about various brake bleeding processes.

http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/b...ol/bleeder.htm

I think, to bleed brake fluid regardless of the method is always better than to let it sit there, even if you use the process that I saw on a Subaru forum once... (one guy would sifon out with a turkey baster and replenish every couple of trips until he went through 1 bottle of fluid)
Although I don't know what its doing for the rusty fluid and air bubbles sitting in the caliper.

Cheers,
Fern