RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

Engine "sludged"; needs replaced at 62k

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Old 01-13-05, 05:11 PM
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toy4two
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Default 2 things to do

Run nothing but Mobil 1 Full Synthetic motor oil in your new engine..

Get your service records from Lexus next time you are there.

I switched to Mobil 1 after getting my RX with 37,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 5,000 miles. I also got all the service records from Lexus. Since my car was a lease return all the service was done at the Lexus dealership so I have full documentation all the scheduled service was done on time.

I also change my own oil and save the dated sales reciept of the new oil and filter I buy every 5,000 miles. That should be good enough. If not I guess you could take a picture of the ODO with the oil reciept next to it.
Old 01-14-05, 03:05 AM
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Lexusfreak
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I think the call for synthetic is a wise one.
Old 01-16-05, 09:46 PM
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joako
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Yes, definitely go with synthetic oil. Volkswagen/Audi had similar problems with the 4 cylinder turbocharged engines in the Passat and A4 and now requires synthetic oil in these engines.
Old 01-17-05, 07:19 AM
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I'm considering going from Mobil 1 to Amsoil now after I have heard that Mobil 1 is not the best synthetic choice out there........we shall see.
Old 01-17-05, 03:09 PM
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mmarshall
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Originally Posted by toy4two
Run nothing but Mobil 1 Full Synthetic motor oil in your new engine..

.
I can partially but not entirely agree with toy4two here. Synthetic will definitely give your engine better protection than dino oil, but should not be needed in areas that don't see extreme summer or winter temperatures. I don't normally recommend synthetic for most areas of the country, and in most cases regular dino oil does an adequate job. But full or partial synthetic, costly as it is, might not be a bad idea with this engine....the design of this engine is known to have narrow oil passages that make the oil run hot and prone to gelling.
If you DO choose synthetic, don't use it until your new engine has a least a couple of thousand break-in miles on it. The excessive slickness of the full synthetic often prevents a new engine from breaking in or the piston rings seating properly.
Treat your new engine the same way you would a brand-new car....the same break-in rules apply. (If you need them or don't know them PM me and I'll give them to you).
And remember...the MOST important rule with ANY oil....dino or synthetic.....is keep it changed.
Old 01-17-05, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mmarshall
I can partially but not entirely agree with toy4two here. Synthetic will definitely give your engine better protection than dino oil, but should not be needed in areas that don't see extreme summer or winter temperatures. I don't normally recommend synthetic for most areas of the country, and in most cases regular dino oil does an adequate job. But full or partial synthetic, costly as it is, might not be a bad idea with this engine....the design of this engine is known to have narrow oil passages that make the oil run hot and prone to gelling.
If you DO choose synthetic, don't use it until your new engine has a least a couple of thousand break-in miles on it. The excessive slickness of the full synthetic often prevents a new engine from breaking in or the piston rings seating properly.
Treat your new engine the same way you would a brand-new car....the same break-in rules apply. (If you need them or don't know them PM me and I'll give them to you).
And remember...the MOST important rule with ANY oil....dino or synthetic.....is keep it changed.
Tonight it's going down to -24.............Canada is a wise choice to use synthetic.
Old 03-18-05, 11:39 AM
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LexusSexus
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Originally Posted by toy4two
Run nothing but Mobil 1 Full Synthetic motor oil in your new engine..

Get your service records from Lexus next time you are there.

I switched to Mobil 1 after getting my RX with 37,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 5,000 miles. I also got all the service records from Lexus. Since my car was a lease return all the service was done at the Lexus dealership so I have full documentation all the scheduled service was done on time.

I also change my own oil and save the dated sales reciept of the new oil and filter I buy every 5,000 miles. That should be good enough. If not I guess you could take a picture of the ODO with the oil reciept next to it.
Thanks for the tips
Old 03-18-05, 11:45 AM
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LexusSexus
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Exclamation

just TODAY it looks like my tranny may have gone bad as well. Dealer is replacing the tranny solenoid (it feels like it is having trouble shifting) and will go from there. Best part of this has been all work was under warranty - LUCKILY! - nothing lost but a bit of time. I always get a nice loaner and zero hassle. Engine would have cost near $8k if it wasn't covered.

I'll repost with the results after the solenoid is replaced. Service manager knows I am bad news when I show up now - ha!
Old 03-18-05, 02:12 PM
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Traturn
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is there a way to check if there's a sludge build up? would they detect it when the mechanics are doing the oil change?
Best way to check for sludge is remove the front valve cover.

It wouldnt be detected doing an oil change.
Old 03-18-05, 03:10 PM
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parula
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toy4two, I can ditto that. I change and take pics for change records - I will only use full synthetics with this vehicle as I plan on keeping her a while!
Wishing I had used it on the Honda too at this point.
Old 03-20-05, 04:03 PM
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Rockville
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Default I swear by Mobil One

MMarshall's advice is excellent and the narrow passage problem was resolved on the new RX330's engine after the gelling issue in the 300. There is another product that I have used for years but is difficult to find. It is called Militec 1. It has many uses and can be added to the transmission, power steering, differentials and of course the crankcase. It is not a lubricant even though it is a synthetic. It increases the surface tension of the metal on a microscopic level and it works. I started using it with SAAB turbos so that the turbo bearings wouldn't coke up from the heat. I put it in every other Mobil One and filter change in my RX300.
Old 03-20-05, 11:10 PM
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HarrierAWD
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Default I swear at Mobil One and other snake oil

I hear Militec 1 with milk will help with ED problem. It's a wonder elixir.

Folks, please don't buy into those snake oil idea. Regular oil change will protect your engine just fine - dino or synthetic. Don't be obsessed with the kind of oil in your engine.

If the unfortunate does occur, Lexus will give you a brand new engine during the first 8 years. So what's the problem???

Last edited by HarrierAWD; 03-20-05 at 11:31 PM.
Old 03-21-05, 06:37 AM
  #28  
Lexmex
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I currently use a blend of Mobil1 5W-50 and 5W-30. No sludge. Some people like Amsoil or Castrol Syntec, and I have no problem with that.

There are additives that you can use. I have used a product called Restore and another one called Oil Extreme (they also make one called Gas Extreme). These are excellent products that can help restore compression, but I have also noticed they clean up the engine pretty good, no varnish. Lexus also checked my valve covers and perfectly fine.

When I change my oil, I use LiquiMoly Engine Flush. You put it in and run the car at idle for about 10 minutes and then change the oil.

Also look into Auto-RX.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com is a great place to start.

This may seem excessive, but my car is under extreme conditions here. Unfortunately, a lot of the stuff I mention above is not sold in Mexico and I need to import it. Most of the stuff advertised down here is snake oil.
Old 03-21-05, 04:44 PM
  #29  
parula
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LexMex, with Mobil1 do you really feel you need the other treatments, meaning have you found they help? Just asking, was in the Yuc this year and it is HOT so I am curious. Was going to look you up but no time.
Old 03-21-05, 09:01 PM
  #30  
Lexmex
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No matter what kind of air filter you use, impurities will get into the oil and into the combustion chamber. In addition, Pemex gas, even if you use Premium is nothing like American gas, high sulfur content and full of impurities. I know my cylinder walls are already scratched. Thus, I need the additives.

When I change my oil, I often see a different tinge, almost greenish in the oil,.than what I saw in the states.I have American friends who did their own oil changes in the states, and also notice this difference.

If I were still in the U.S., I would do a simple oil change w/filter without the additives.
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