Rear hatch opening too slooooowly
01-05-12, 11:44 AM
#106
Driver
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arizona
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I posted about this a few days ago, but being super busy, I made the mistake of naming the aftermarket product, so I guess they erased my post. OK. So I paid around 63 bucks including shipping for 2 new struts for my 2000 RX300. They took longer to install than normal, because I had to use a 2 X 4 to hold up the liftgate while working, and bees, as you may know, infected with some virus that makes them wacky and unable to find their way back to the hive, drove me half nuts. One, after being smacked to the driveway, returned and flew into my socket. I did find that having a 6 inch long extension for my quarter inch socket set helped when working past the brackets at odd angles. Make sure you align the new brackets exactly like the old ones when mounting, and do not overtighten. If both struts are exactly alike, you will have to twist one so that the bracket alignment is correct for one side. These work great, even in the cold. We shall see how long they last. By the way, the bolt size was 10 mm. Best of luck to all.
Last edited by Xtom73G; 01-05-12 at 11:46 AM. Reason: add bolt size
05-20-12, 07:45 PM
#107
My liftgate supports are about 3 years old and have been opening/closing well. Today, the rivet which holds the top part of the piston to the bracket snapped off. Is this something I can repair myselgf with a simple screw or rod, or should I just invest in a new set of supports?
05-21-12, 04:44 AM
#108
It depends. Is the broken strut Lexus-brand or after-market?
To do a repair, or have it repaired, you'll have to remove the strut and be without use of the rear hatch until it is repaired. Is this something that is worth it to you?
Why are you mentioning replacing the pair of struts when only one is broken?
If you decide to have the strut repaired, I would try removing the strut and taking it to a machine shop. Depending on the machine shops in your area, you can probably have the broken rivet replaced.
On the other hand, the broken rivet could well be the symptom of a deeper problem, i.e., the piston is binding and it caused excessive forces on the rivet. So, it's probably worth it to just replace the strut.
To do a repair, or have it repaired, you'll have to remove the strut and be without use of the rear hatch until it is repaired. Is this something that is worth it to you?
Why are you mentioning replacing the pair of struts when only one is broken?
If you decide to have the strut repaired, I would try removing the strut and taking it to a machine shop. Depending on the machine shops in your area, you can probably have the broken rivet replaced.
On the other hand, the broken rivet could well be the symptom of a deeper problem, i.e., the piston is binding and it caused excessive forces on the rivet. So, it's probably worth it to just replace the strut.
Last edited by bob2200; 05-21-12 at 04:49 AM.
10-02-12, 03:58 PM
#109
I installed Lou's. I did them one at a time and just supported the hatch with my head. I had a helper but he ran off when I went to look at the directions.
Even so, the install was easy. The struts make a little gas noise when they open, but I could care less. So far, if anything, the struts may be a little too strong (the lift is more than enough and it's a bit more elbow grease to close the hatch).
Knock on wood, but I'm thrilled with the result for $50 and after living with this situation for too long. Once again, this forum comes through.
Even so, the install was easy. The struts make a little gas noise when they open, but I could care less. So far, if anything, the struts may be a little too strong (the lift is more than enough and it's a bit more elbow grease to close the hatch).
Knock on wood, but I'm thrilled with the result for $50 and after living with this situation for too long. Once again, this forum comes through.
10-02-12, 05:44 PM
#110
Moderator
It depends. Is the broken strut Lexus-brand or after-market?
To do a repair, or have it repaired, you'll have to remove the strut and be without use of the rear hatch until it is repaired. Is this something that is worth it to you?
Why are you mentioning replacing the pair of struts when only one is broken?
If you decide to have the strut repaired, I would try removing the strut and taking it to a machine shop. Depending on the machine shops in your area, you can probably have the broken rivet replaced.
On the other hand, the broken rivet could well be the symptom of a deeper problem, i.e., the piston is binding and it caused excessive forces on the rivet. So, it's probably worth it to just replace the strut.
To do a repair, or have it repaired, you'll have to remove the strut and be without use of the rear hatch until it is repaired. Is this something that is worth it to you?
Why are you mentioning replacing the pair of struts when only one is broken?
If you decide to have the strut repaired, I would try removing the strut and taking it to a machine shop. Depending on the machine shops in your area, you can probably have the broken rivet replaced.
On the other hand, the broken rivet could well be the symptom of a deeper problem, i.e., the piston is binding and it caused excessive forces on the rivet. So, it's probably worth it to just replace the strut.
Salim
06-27-13, 01:24 PM
#112
Driver School Candidate
Just got a 2000 RX300 with bad lift supports.
Got a pair of these StrongArm 6102 at $25/ea from Amazon (made in USA):
Propped up the liftgate with a 6' ladder (just like they tell you NOT to do), removed them with a 10mm socket (I think). One bolt on the door mounted bracket is hard to get to, and you'll have to origami the support out of the way. Or use an open end wrench on that last bolt. You will have to rotate the mounting brackets in order that they line up properly with the frame and door. I used the existing supports as a guide. They are not easy to rotate, but they will rotate slowly.
Took me about 10 minutes.
Got a pair of these StrongArm 6102 at $25/ea from Amazon (made in USA):
Propped up the liftgate with a 6' ladder (just like they tell you NOT to do), removed them with a 10mm socket (I think). One bolt on the door mounted bracket is hard to get to, and you'll have to origami the support out of the way. Or use an open end wrench on that last bolt. You will have to rotate the mounting brackets in order that they line up properly with the frame and door. I used the existing supports as a guide. They are not easy to rotate, but they will rotate slowly.
Took me about 10 minutes.
06-30-13, 06:25 PM
#113
Moderator
Nice work.. I'm thinking about swapping mine out since they look original
12-20-13, 10:03 AM
#114
Amazon Prime 2-day shipping)
The original parts are more than $300 for the pair. The origninal ones that came with the RX300
lasted 12 years. However, I figured that even if the StrongArm $49 strtus last only 3 years, I can
replace them 6 times(18 years). 6 times $49 is still a couple of dollars short of the $300 that
Toyota wants for the parts.
The original ones were not strong enough to reach the top 4 inches by itself.
It was easier than I thought and took me maybe 10 to 15 minutes. Just a 10mm socket wrench
and a 10mm open-end wrench. The StrongArms didn't comes with bolts and I just re-used the
original bolts on the Lexus.
I don't know if I f*c*ed it up or something, but the struts were surprisingly strong. After I open
the liftgate and pull it about 3 inches, it swings up by itself very smoothly and quickly. It's almost
as if it will fly off... but stops during the last inch of travel. Closing the liftgate is now also much
harder, since the struts are new and require a lot more force to push close. Is this normal?
Thanks!
Last edited by BlueCrabby; 12-20-13 at 10:08 AM.
12-20-13, 10:42 AM
#115
Moderator
I replaced the trunk struts in SC400 with strongarms, and they lasted 3 yrs 
Same observation there, the replacements would lift the trunk halfway and overtime now they are worse than the aged originals were. Since they provided more lift, one had to push harder on the trunk to close ... but after 3 yrs, it is a different story. I will be switching to stabilus (which I think provide a warranty).
Please note the strong-arms for RX maybe a better product and StrongArms may have improved in quality. Strongarm's warranty may be different now, but the set I purchased 3 yrs ago had short warranty period.
Salim
Note: this is just one person's experience.
Same observation there, the replacements would lift the trunk halfway and overtime now they are worse than the aged originals were. Since they provided more lift, one had to push harder on the trunk to close ... but after 3 yrs, it is a different story. I will be switching to stabilus (which I think provide a warranty).
Please note the strong-arms for RX maybe a better product and StrongArms may have improved in quality. Strongarm's warranty may be different now, but the set I purchased 3 yrs ago had short warranty period.
Salim
Note: this is just one person's experience.
12-20-13, 11:52 AM
#116
I replaced the trunk struts in SC400 with strongarms, and they lasted 3 yrs
Same observation there, the replacements would lift the trunk halfway and overtime now they are worse than the aged originals were. Since they provided more lift, one had to push harder on the trunk to close ... but after 3 yrs, it is a different story. I will be switching to stabilus (which I think provide a warranty).
Please note the strong-arms for RX maybe a better product and StrongArms may have improved in quality. Strongarm's warranty may be different now, but the set I purchased 3 yrs ago had short warranty period.
Salim
Note: this is just one person's experience.
Same observation there, the replacements would lift the trunk halfway and overtime now they are worse than the aged originals were. Since they provided more lift, one had to push harder on the trunk to close ... but after 3 yrs, it is a different story. I will be switching to stabilus (which I think provide a warranty).
Please note the strong-arms for RX maybe a better product and StrongArms may have improved in quality. Strongarm's warranty may be different now, but the set I purchased 3 yrs ago had short warranty period.
Salim
Note: this is just one person's experience.
Obvioulsy, the original Toyota struts are even better, but at 7 times the cost, it may or may not
be worth yet.(even if the StrongArm lasts only 3 years)
It's 81 degreets outside today, so I wonder if the new StrongArm struts that i just installed are
being helped by the warm weather. They are just WAYYYY to strong. I just did a little stupid
tests by hanging a carry-on case to the liftgate. The carry-on case is 34 pounds, according
to my scale. I tied it to the rear wiper bolt. The liftgate still went up to the stop without slowing
down.
01-06-14, 09:16 PM
#117
Hatch Lift support for 2000 RX300
On my 2K RX300, I replaced both the front hood supports and the rear hatch supports with the Strong Arm support from Amazon. About the same price as other folks $50 plus or minus a couple of dollars. No charge for shipping with Amaz Prime~~~
AND I successfully did the job! Amazing. As I am a 73 year old man, with a lung disease on oxygen 24/7, mild congintive impairment, and some hand flexibility to add on to all the other stuff.
OK, I did not do it in 10 minutes. Not by a long shot. I did, howeever, use the non-recommended two by four for both the front and rear. Actually had to kind of make pyramid for the hatch supports. My boards weren't long enough...
In any case both front and rear jobs went well. I did take about 1 1/2 hours for the hatch, as that was the first one. Now mind you, after; working for about 5 minutes, I have to stop and sit down and let my lungs recover with the oxygen.So I actually wind up with more rest time than work time.
I had forgetter, after all the years, that the supports/lifts were actually supposed to LIFT the hatch and hood UP. In my case neither were going up and it had become a struggle. After the repair both hood and hatch work fine. The RX300 has been a great car for me. I did get into trouble when I bought it though. At the time, my wife and I had a deal that if either of us were going to spend more than $500, we would consult with the other person. Hmmm? It seems that while my wife was out of town on a business trip that I found a "deal" that I just couldn't pass up at the Local Lexus dealer. I got in trouble for that purchase but she now does agree that the car has been a great onel for both of os.
AND I successfully did the job! Amazing. As I am a 73 year old man, with a lung disease on oxygen 24/7, mild congintive impairment, and some hand flexibility to add on to all the other stuff.
OK, I did not do it in 10 minutes. Not by a long shot. I did, howeever, use the non-recommended two by four for both the front and rear. Actually had to kind of make pyramid for the hatch supports. My boards weren't long enough...
In any case both front and rear jobs went well. I did take about 1 1/2 hours for the hatch, as that was the first one. Now mind you, after; working for about 5 minutes, I have to stop and sit down and let my lungs recover with the oxygen.So I actually wind up with more rest time than work time.
I had forgetter, after all the years, that the supports/lifts were actually supposed to LIFT the hatch and hood UP. In my case neither were going up and it had become a struggle. After the repair both hood and hatch work fine. The RX300 has been a great car for me. I did get into trouble when I bought it though. At the time, my wife and I had a deal that if either of us were going to spend more than $500, we would consult with the other person. Hmmm? It seems that while my wife was out of town on a business trip that I found a "deal" that I just couldn't pass up at the Local Lexus dealer. I got in trouble for that purchase but she now does agree that the car has been a great onel for both of os.
08-13-14, 05:26 AM
#118
Rookie
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: MICHIGAN
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11-29-14, 05:28 PM
#119
Intermediate
I am getting ready to install a pair on our car and will have a helper with me.
Should I still take apart the ball/socket end when I try to install and then snap it into place or that's optional?
Also, any torque spec range for the bolts? Don't want to strip it, but want it to be sturdy.
Should I still take apart the ball/socket end when I try to install and then snap it into place or that's optional?
Also, any torque spec range for the bolts? Don't want to strip it, but want it to be sturdy.
