2011 Lexus RX350 suspension
09-08-16, 01:14 PM
#1
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2011 Lexus RX350 suspension
Hi All,
I had a question regarding the suspension in the Lexus RX350. In our 2011 Lexus RX350 I find the suspension to be really "floaty" and disconnected. I drove a 2014 Lexus RX350 and found it to be vastly different than our RX. Was there a upgrade to the suspension for this model year, or are the shocks in my car gone? If so does anyone have a ballpark figure for what a set of shocks would cost?
Thanks!
I had a question regarding the suspension in the Lexus RX350. In our 2011 Lexus RX350 I find the suspension to be really "floaty" and disconnected. I drove a 2014 Lexus RX350 and found it to be vastly different than our RX. Was there a upgrade to the suspension for this model year, or are the shocks in my car gone? If so does anyone have a ballpark figure for what a set of shocks would cost?
Thanks!
09-08-16, 02:36 PM
#2
Probably not the socks, but it's more a function of intentional design to separate the diver from the road.
There is another long thread here in CL where someone chased sway bars, bushings, shocks/struts, wider tires, and wheel spacers in pursuit of a sportier handling. What I came away from that long effort with is that there are two reasonably priced approaches which comprise most of the benefit you can potentially gain... wider tires and wheel spacers. The sway bar/bushings can help, but it seems to be more elusive than you would expect.
Case in point... I just got our 2010 RXh and immediately installed 20mm wheel spacers to capture a flatter ride through the curves, and it was very effective. I LOVED the new ride. HOWEVER, it's my wife's vehicle, not mine, and she HATES feeling like she's being tossed around in the seat with the stiffer cornering (she's not tall, and is a very petite woman). Shoot, even me with my 6' tall, wide shoulldered, 240 lb linebacker frame feels like I even slide in the seat more than I did before... not much more, but some. My weight also helps reduce that effect.
Regardless, I have to remove the spacers and sell them because she hates it so much.
There is another long thread here in CL where someone chased sway bars, bushings, shocks/struts, wider tires, and wheel spacers in pursuit of a sportier handling. What I came away from that long effort with is that there are two reasonably priced approaches which comprise most of the benefit you can potentially gain... wider tires and wheel spacers. The sway bar/bushings can help, but it seems to be more elusive than you would expect.
Case in point... I just got our 2010 RXh and immediately installed 20mm wheel spacers to capture a flatter ride through the curves, and it was very effective. I LOVED the new ride. HOWEVER, it's my wife's vehicle, not mine, and she HATES feeling like she's being tossed around in the seat with the stiffer cornering (she's not tall, and is a very petite woman). Shoot, even me with my 6' tall, wide shoulldered, 240 lb linebacker frame feels like I even slide in the seat more than I did before... not much more, but some. My weight also helps reduce that effect.
Regardless, I have to remove the spacers and sell them because she hates it so much.
Last edited by kitlz; 09-08-16 at 03:21 PM.
09-09-16, 05:23 AM
#3
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Probably not the socks, but it's more a function of intentional design to separate the diver from the road.
There is another long thread here in CL where someone chased sway bars, bushings, shocks/struts, wider tires, and wheel spacers in pursuit of a sportier handling. What I came away from that long effort with is that there are two reasonably priced approaches which comprise most of the benefit you can potentially gain... wider tires and wheel spacers. The sway bar/bushings can help, but it seems to be more elusive than you would expect.
Case in point... I just got our 2010 RXh and immediately installed 20mm wheel spacers to capture a flatter ride through the curves, and it was very effective. I LOVED the new ride. HOWEVER, it's my wife's vehicle, not mine, and she HATES feeling like she's being tossed around in the seat with the stiffer cornering (she's not tall, and is a very petite woman). Shoot, even me with my 6' tall, wide shoulldered, 240 lb linebacker frame feels like I even slide in the seat more than I did before... not much more, but some. My weight also helps reduce that effect.
Regardless, I have to remove the spacers and sell them because she hates it so much.
There is another long thread here in CL where someone chased sway bars, bushings, shocks/struts, wider tires, and wheel spacers in pursuit of a sportier handling. What I came away from that long effort with is that there are two reasonably priced approaches which comprise most of the benefit you can potentially gain... wider tires and wheel spacers. The sway bar/bushings can help, but it seems to be more elusive than you would expect.
Case in point... I just got our 2010 RXh and immediately installed 20mm wheel spacers to capture a flatter ride through the curves, and it was very effective. I LOVED the new ride. HOWEVER, it's my wife's vehicle, not mine, and she HATES feeling like she's being tossed around in the seat with the stiffer cornering (she's not tall, and is a very petite woman). Shoot, even me with my 6' tall, wide shoulldered, 240 lb linebacker frame feels like I even slide in the seat more than I did before... not much more, but some. My weight also helps reduce that effect.
Regardless, I have to remove the spacers and sell them because she hates it so much.
Would you mind sharing the cost of the spacers? I might consider doing this to the car since I can't stand all that body roll in the car; it's horrendous.
09-09-16, 06:36 AM
#4
UPDATE: I just heard from the wife last night that she has determined that it will now be OK to LEAVE the spacers in place. She understands the stability issue, and as she is getting more and more used to driving the much smaller and significantly different Lexus (as compared to our '03 Ford diesel Excursion land yacht)... it's not going to be an issue for her after all!
Here is a link to the other vendor marketplace thread where B2autodesigns is giving CL members a discounted price. >>https://www.clublexus.com/forums/clu...todesigns.html
Also, there are apparently two different designs for the 20mm spacers. One requires removing the existing lug bolts and replacing them with longer bolts, and the other design is completely bolt-on by using specially tapered nuts to attach the spacer onto your vehicle, and then you use your existing lug nuts to attach the wheel on top of the spacers (Trak+). I chose the second option because I did not like the mechanical implications of using a longer lug bolt. I believe the bolt on approach is mechanically more secure, even though you do end up with 10 torqued bolts instead of 5 for each wheel. Just be careful to slowly and progressively snug and torque each of the bolts in the typical alternating pattern, and creep up to the torque spec incrementally... a little bit on all 5, then a little more on all 5, and finish on all 5... this will give you an even torque profile over the full face of the spacer and wheel and minimize any potential for throwing the system out of balance and flatness.
Here is a link to the other vendor marketplace thread where B2autodesigns is giving CL members a discounted price. >>https://www.clublexus.com/forums/clu...todesigns.html
Also, there are apparently two different designs for the 20mm spacers. One requires removing the existing lug bolts and replacing them with longer bolts, and the other design is completely bolt-on by using specially tapered nuts to attach the spacer onto your vehicle, and then you use your existing lug nuts to attach the wheel on top of the spacers (Trak+). I chose the second option because I did not like the mechanical implications of using a longer lug bolt. I believe the bolt on approach is mechanically more secure, even though you do end up with 10 torqued bolts instead of 5 for each wheel. Just be careful to slowly and progressively snug and torque each of the bolts in the typical alternating pattern, and creep up to the torque spec incrementally... a little bit on all 5, then a little more on all 5, and finish on all 5... this will give you an even torque profile over the full face of the spacer and wheel and minimize any potential for throwing the system out of balance and flatness.
Last edited by kitlz; 09-09-16 at 09:07 AM. Reason: not the classifieds
09-09-16, 06:44 AM
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UPDATE: I just heard from the wife last night that she has determined that it will now be OK to LEAVE the spacers in place. She understands the stability issue, and as she is getting more and more used to driving the much smaller and significantly different Lexus (as compared to our '03 Ford diesel Excursion land yacht)... it's not going to be an issue for her after all!
Here is a link to the other vendor marketplace thread where B2autodesigns is giving CL members a discounted price. >>https://www.clublexus.com/forums/clu...todesigns.html
Also, there are apparently two different designs for the 20mm spacers. One requires removing the existing lug bolts and replacing them with longer bolts, and the other design is completely bolt-on by using specially tapered nuts to attach the spacer onto your vehicle, and then you use your existing lug nuts to attach the wheel on top of the spacers (Trak+). I chose the second option because I did not like the mechanical implications of using a longer lug bolt. I believe the bolt on approach is mechanically more secure, even though you do end up with 10 torqued bolts instead of 5 for each wheel. Just be careful to slowly and progressively snug and torque each of the bolts in the typical alternating pattern, and creep up to the torque spec incrementally... a little bit on all 5, then a little more on all 5, and finish on all 5... this will give you an even torque profile over the full face of the spacer and wheel and minimize any potential for throwing the system out of balance and flatness.
Here is a link to the other vendor marketplace thread where B2autodesigns is giving CL members a discounted price. >>https://www.clublexus.com/forums/clu...todesigns.html
Also, there are apparently two different designs for the 20mm spacers. One requires removing the existing lug bolts and replacing them with longer bolts, and the other design is completely bolt-on by using specially tapered nuts to attach the spacer onto your vehicle, and then you use your existing lug nuts to attach the wheel on top of the spacers (Trak+). I chose the second option because I did not like the mechanical implications of using a longer lug bolt. I believe the bolt on approach is mechanically more secure, even though you do end up with 10 torqued bolts instead of 5 for each wheel. Just be careful to slowly and progressively snug and torque each of the bolts in the typical alternating pattern, and creep up to the torque spec incrementally... a little bit on all 5, then a little more on all 5, and finish on all 5... this will give you an even torque profile over the full face of the spacer and wheel and minimize any potential for throwing the system out of balance and flatness.
Last edited by kitlz; 09-09-16 at 09:07 AM.
09-12-16, 06:45 AM
#6
Moderator
How many miles are on your 2011 RX 350? Shocks and struts do wear out. The OEM shocks and struts are actually less expensive than the aftermarket ones which are made by KYB, who is also the OEM supplier. The KYB ones are supposed to be 10% stiffer but are a bit more costly. Monroe only makes front strut replacements as they are the same as the Highlander (which has rear struts while we have shocks). There really are no other major manufacturer shock/strut suppliers except cheap Chinese ones you can find on eBay.
09-12-16, 08:28 AM
#7
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How many miles are on your 2011 RX 350? Shocks and struts do wear out. The OEM shocks and struts are actually less expensive than the aftermarket ones which are made by KYB, who is also the OEM supplier. The KYB ones are supposed to be 10% stiffer but are a bit more costly. Monroe only makes front strut replacements as they are the same as the Highlander (which has rear struts while we have shocks). There really are no other major manufacturer shock/strut suppliers except cheap Chinese ones you can find on eBay.
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09-12-16, 09:53 AM
#8
Moderator
www.lexuspartsnow.com is a good source for discount OEM parts. Tire Rack, has them, http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...utoModClar=AWD
but as I said KYB is the only company that makes struts and shocks for this vehicle. I think you can shop around for better prices. To install struts you need a spring compressor and need to know what you are doing as it is dangerous. Or pay a shop, you can use the Tire Rack recommended installers and have the struts shipped to them. You need an alignment after replacing the front struts. I would consider replacing the front strut mount bearings at the same time as they are cheap and a wear item.
but as I said KYB is the only company that makes struts and shocks for this vehicle. I think you can shop around for better prices. To install struts you need a spring compressor and need to know what you are doing as it is dangerous. Or pay a shop, you can use the Tire Rack recommended installers and have the struts shipped to them. You need an alignment after replacing the front struts. I would consider replacing the front strut mount bearings at the same time as they are cheap and a wear item.
09-12-16, 03:35 PM
#9
Old tech tip - lift and drop the ends of the car vigorously and see how many
cycles you get after you stop. Ideally it should stop moving almost immediately.
Similar (and easier) is to grab the roof rack rail and toss it side to side. Same
test but not as revealing if only the fronts or rears are worn out.
Tougher to do without getting dirty is to poke a light under and examine the struts
and shocks outside. Excessive oil streaks are a bad sign, you do have to know
where to look and this would be evidence of severely soft shock.
British English is rather more correct BTW. Their name of our Shock Absorber
is "Damper" which is actually what they do.
cycles you get after you stop. Ideally it should stop moving almost immediately.
Similar (and easier) is to grab the roof rack rail and toss it side to side. Same
test but not as revealing if only the fronts or rears are worn out.
Tougher to do without getting dirty is to poke a light under and examine the struts
and shocks outside. Excessive oil streaks are a bad sign, you do have to know
where to look and this would be evidence of severely soft shock.
British English is rather more correct BTW. Their name of our Shock Absorber
is "Damper" which is actually what they do.
09-13-16, 06:55 AM
#10
Moderator
The rear shocks are well known for leaking and there are a few threads discussing this issue. Some folks had them replaced under warranty. The indication is if the shock is damp. My left rear shock has been damp for over a year, yet there has not been any noticeable change in performance. However at only $33.00 each, it may be time to replace them...
09-13-16, 10:50 AM
#12
Moderator
This is for my 2010 North American built (Canada) RX350:
http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts-l...-absorber.html
http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts-l...-absorber.html
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