Putting a Trailer Hitch on 2010-2015 RX
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Putting a Trailer Hitch on 2010-2015 RX
Since there's not a lot of threads about this, I wanted to make one. This won't be a DIY, but just an overview of what I did and hopefully answering some questions about it. E-trailer has some great videos about the install.
Parts purchased:
CURT 13143 (Class III hitch)
CURT 56083 (P&P wiring for trailer lights)
CURT 22276 (2" receiver rubber plug)
CURT 58300 (4-pin plug bracket)
CURT 21580 (5/8" pin and clip)
Reese 78115 (Tester for power from hitch 4-pin connector)
Instructions:
https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlib.../13143_INS.pdf
Overall an easy DIY install for any competent DIYer. I did this on the driveway with the car up on ramps without help in a short period of time. You can snake the hitch on top of the rear resonator and let it sit there, I didn't even need to use a jack or jackstand to help hold it there after that. My car is an F-Sport, but the previous owner had a hitch on the car and didn't put the F-Sport rear damper / glorified chassis brace thing back. The kit comes with a bracket and hardware to reattach this damper to the new hitch, as well as even retaining the stock factory tow hooks if you want. It comes with 6 zinc-plated M12 x 1.25 bolts (torqued to 86 ft lbs) to install into the stock locations. I would highly recommend cleaning the frame holes before mounting the hitch. Mine were so crusty that there's no way a wire brush would have even helped, I had to run a M12 - 1.25 tap through each six of the holes with a periodic shot of penetrating fluid so it wouldn't bind up.
I would have liked to show before and after of the trimming of the plastic under shield, but I can't do that either as the PO also had it trimmed due to the hitch. However, I noticed that they also left off the plastic plug to cover the pre-wired trailer wiring under the bumper. Mine was a bit corroded so I used a small wire brush on a dremel to clean it. You could also use the dremel to cut the plastic.
The CURT 58300 4-way flat mounting bracket didn't come with hardware which was pretty disappointing considering its price. Two M5 x 0.8 bolts and nuts worked fine for me. Just line it up where you want and make two holes. I mounted mine on the plastic shield underneath the of the bumper, as that plastic shield is a lot cheaper to replace vs. the bumper should I ever need a new one. The protruding "flange" of the bracket faces outward
After everything was said and done and hooked up, I noticed that no power was coming from the connector. I went into the engine bay fuse box and the "TOWING" 20 amp fuse was absent for some reason. Popped in a micro 20a fuse and all was well. All Canadian cars have standard tow package, so I'm not sure if non-tow pack cars are pre-wired for the hitch wiring - something to look into
Looks good! Definitely can recommend this hitch. It tucks away nicely and is well-made!
Parts purchased:
CURT 13143 (Class III hitch)
CURT 56083 (P&P wiring for trailer lights)
CURT 22276 (2" receiver rubber plug)
CURT 58300 (4-pin plug bracket)
CURT 21580 (5/8" pin and clip)
Reese 78115 (Tester for power from hitch 4-pin connector)
Instructions:
https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlib.../13143_INS.pdf
Overall an easy DIY install for any competent DIYer. I did this on the driveway with the car up on ramps without help in a short period of time. You can snake the hitch on top of the rear resonator and let it sit there, I didn't even need to use a jack or jackstand to help hold it there after that. My car is an F-Sport, but the previous owner had a hitch on the car and didn't put the F-Sport rear damper / glorified chassis brace thing back. The kit comes with a bracket and hardware to reattach this damper to the new hitch, as well as even retaining the stock factory tow hooks if you want. It comes with 6 zinc-plated M12 x 1.25 bolts (torqued to 86 ft lbs) to install into the stock locations. I would highly recommend cleaning the frame holes before mounting the hitch. Mine were so crusty that there's no way a wire brush would have even helped, I had to run a M12 - 1.25 tap through each six of the holes with a periodic shot of penetrating fluid so it wouldn't bind up.
I would have liked to show before and after of the trimming of the plastic under shield, but I can't do that either as the PO also had it trimmed due to the hitch. However, I noticed that they also left off the plastic plug to cover the pre-wired trailer wiring under the bumper. Mine was a bit corroded so I used a small wire brush on a dremel to clean it. You could also use the dremel to cut the plastic.
The CURT 58300 4-way flat mounting bracket didn't come with hardware which was pretty disappointing considering its price. Two M5 x 0.8 bolts and nuts worked fine for me. Just line it up where you want and make two holes. I mounted mine on the plastic shield underneath the of the bumper, as that plastic shield is a lot cheaper to replace vs. the bumper should I ever need a new one. The protruding "flange" of the bracket faces outward
After everything was said and done and hooked up, I noticed that no power was coming from the connector. I went into the engine bay fuse box and the "TOWING" 20 amp fuse was absent for some reason. Popped in a micro 20a fuse and all was well. All Canadian cars have standard tow package, so I'm not sure if non-tow pack cars are pre-wired for the hitch wiring - something to look into
Looks good! Definitely can recommend this hitch. It tucks away nicely and is well-made!
The following users liked this post:
Vic250604 (09-09-24)
#2
I recently put a hitch on my 2015 450h. I priced the same Curt hitch on Amazon (Cda) but found that to get the same one installed at Uhaul it was only a few dollars more. So I went that route and then did the wiring myself. After installing the 4-pin plug which was an easy plug in with the Curt harness from Amazon, I then added a 7-pin plug since my trailer has brakes.
The following users liked this post:
MattRX (07-30-24)
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