wardman1

Any real world comparisons? I am coming from a BMW GT that is ok ride wise, but seats give me a pain in the back...

and $39,700 for 2013 with 31,000 miles - better deal. I need to go pick it up, why I ask about price and ride having not been able to sit in it.

pamiboy

Are you going to buy a car without even seeing or riding / driving it? Good luck.

corradoMR2

BMW 5-series or 3-series GT?

As I briefly mentioned in your other thread, the F-Sport is firmer than the standard RX keeping all things the same (i.e. same 19 inch tires and PSI) . It 's difficult to quantify what that means without true scientific measurements. The closest way to describe the difference in firmness between the RX and F-Sport is like having the tires set at 30 PSI vs 40 PSI on a regular RX with 19 inch wheels/tires. However, what adds to the complexity is the lateral performance dampers exclusive to the F-Sport which make it ride virtually with the same ride comfort as the regular RX on smooth to slightly imperfect roads (i.e, cracks, pitted asphalt, rumble strip, etc). I stress "slightly" since the larger imperfections (potholes, speed bumps, non-flush driveway entrance ramps, etc) are no longer absorbed by the damper in which case the firmer springs and shocks then come into play which have lower travel rate and therefore lower impact absorption. In short, as a general statement from my experience, a sudden change in suspension travel beyond about a half to 1 inch is where the difference shows in ride comfort.


As the F-Sport has been controversial in the ride-comfort department across the automotive community, this is definitely a vehicle you want to test drive and not only in warmer conditions, but in colder conditions since the suspension stiffens up more so in winter than in most cars I've had, which can veer on the harsh side. I understand that winter is still a while away but possibly what you can do to mimic a winter ride is to bump the tire pressure to about 41-42 psi during the test drive vs 33 psi (recommended).

PS. 39.7K is a tad high IMO for 31K miles, but due to the rarity of the F-Sport, it's more a seller's market than a buyer's. Ultimately, it comes down to what you're comfortable paying.

wardman1

I have driven an RX F-sport, now I am working to find the best deal. I am in Pennsylvania, and currently have a 535GT with RFT's. Best engine in the class IMO. Ride, RFT's, seat itself and peculiars of BMW are not what I am looking for or I would go to the X5. GT is stiff and low to the ground, excited about getting back into the Lexus RX family.

Thanks!

corradoMR2

Looks like you know exactly what you want, that's half the battle - congrats!

Now just getting the right deal...

wardman1

Yes - it is what I want. Not sure if waiting for the end of the month is a better move, or push a bit now. It's between:

- New for good price (at 50K now) : silver lining
- Used 2012 with 17K miles for 41,000 (more local to me) : blue color
- Used 2012 with 31K miles for 39,700 (further away) : blue color

Both of the used are CPO - so have 3 years 100,000 mile warranty. so I think I am safe with either RX. Would like to buy local for service reasons - do all Lexus dealers typically honor pick up and drop off of cars for oil changes etc...?

Thanks!

hovbuild

My 2012 3 months ago 35600 with 28000 mi, tech, comfort package, primer, 19" wheels, new tires, cpo. Deal started at 37600 but there were a few minor paint issues so I on a test drive took it to a body shop and got a price to fix the few minor problems. Came back and negotiated the estimate and my time. The day before buying I asked the manager if someone could clean some marks and dirty spots on the head liner, he said no problem, when I came back to negotiate nothing was done. This also gave me more leverage. BTW It took me 15 minutes to clean all the spots on the headliner but cost them some brownie points and some $. It is a wonderful driving car.

corradoMR2

You mean 2013 above? F-Sport was not available prior to 2013.

Buy the one that you like since you can service your RX at ANY Lexus dealer. And for added convenience, if a Toyota dealer is even closer, regular maintenance work can be done there fully warranted - just keep your invoice for any future reference.

wardman1

Yes - 2013, good catch.

Was there anything majorly different on 2013 vs. 2015? I see Siri something, but I don't have an I-phone. Lexus Apps??? I can save 10K going with a used, but 2 year old CPO. If new car had 6 year 100,000 miles warranty I may opt for it. Then again, failures "usually" happen in the first few months from my experience.

Oh - and updated Nav vs older version.

Nebula is growing on me :-)

corradoMR2

^^^ You pretty much summed up the major differences and as per your other thread. Mechanically (including fuel = regular) is identical as well as styling/design. When putting it into perspective, saving 10K for such negligible differences makes a whole lotta sense. Though keep in mind you'll probably need to factor in new tires (1K) and a prorated $ amount towards brake wear with a CPO diminishing the savings a bit.

P.S. Happy with Nebula Gray. Paint swirls/scratches and dirt show less than on my blue IS so it's also a relatively low maintenance color.

wardman1

Agreed - although I will push for the 15,000 mileage check completed, so I know what I am getting into. If I can get the blue with 17,000 miles for $39K, it is a done deal. And that RX is still sitting on the lot - wish me luck :-)

Although I can also lease new with 20,000 miles a year for total out of pocket for $31,043.

It's between those two options. Input appreciated. Lease guru's may suggest stay at lower mileage to get better residual/target price, but buying mileage now is 15 vs 25 cents a mile.

markrivers

Low milage Lease now and purchase later is the better compromise.
Insist on no money down, roll everything on your monthly.
Are you sure you'll stick with the RX even after the re-design which is right around the corner. 2016 model year.

If you're not sure, then i stick with my suggestion.
( just understand that you'll end up pAying a little more by leasing then buying VS buying outright!)
The only "advantage" at least for me is the no money down.
I hate writing a check that is 10-30% of vehicle price.

wardman1

833 a month, 20k a year for 3 years. No money down, first month only. Mileage is 15 up front, or 25 on back, but need to confirm. Out of pocket is 30k about, vs 40k with tax/tags to buy CPO. In 3 years should have 70k miles on it, will it be worth more than the 10k extra.... I'll look on line for similarly aged deal.

Just checked, 2010 with 80k miles are listed for 24k+. In 3 years a CPO should return me more equity baring anything bad.

Make sense?