Cutting down road noise in this RX
09-09-14, 12:02 PM
#46
Thanks for the kudos!
Yeah, I figured since the cargo area was now wide open, I might as well over-cover it all in Ensolite. And I will only wanna do this once.
Donno if I have the appetite right now for yanking more carpet and trim.
But it will be interesting to read about your results first before I tackle the wheel wells.
Yes, driving it on a rough-surface highway today also nagged my attention to the front end area now that the rear is considerably quieter
Only because of my discount, the product I would be using to mix with the microspheres is a local product from Cloverdale Paints: "Towerthon" elastomeric coating. I would imagine just about any outdoor elastomeric acrylic paint will do fine. It's sticky, has lots of body, breathes (so doesn't trap moisture) and will flex with the temp extremes.
It will certainly be appreciated if you will indeed take some before and during photos of your paint project.
Will you also please include a few details on jack stand placements (haven't had this car up in the air yet), and the re&re'ing of the wheel well liners -- thanks
Yeah, I figured since the cargo area was now wide open, I might as well over-cover it all in Ensolite. And I will only wanna do this once.
Donno if I have the appetite right now for yanking more carpet and trim.
But it will be interesting to read about your results first before I tackle the wheel wells.
Yes, driving it on a rough-surface highway today also nagged my attention to the front end area now that the rear is considerably quieter
Only because of my discount, the product I would be using to mix with the microspheres is a local product from Cloverdale Paints: "Towerthon" elastomeric coating. I would imagine just about any outdoor elastomeric acrylic paint will do fine. It's sticky, has lots of body, breathes (so doesn't trap moisture) and will flex with the temp extremes.
It will certainly be appreciated if you will indeed take some before and during photos of your paint project.
Will you also please include a few details on jack stand placements (haven't had this car up in the air yet), and the re&re'ing of the wheel well liners -- thanks
Last edited by greyRX; 09-09-14 at 12:46 PM.
09-13-14, 08:26 AM
#47
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Try to get the tire pressure up again and see if that make a difference. I have been playing with the same here.
I will inflate using Nitrogen and give that a try to solve my concerns. I took delivery with 42 PSI all around. Do they really pay attention at the dealerships?. I have Nitogen in all my cars . That keeps the PSI more stable and less a headache.
I will inflate using Nitrogen and give that a try to solve my concerns. I took delivery with 42 PSI all around. Do they really pay attention at the dealerships?. I have Nitogen in all my cars . That keeps the PSI more stable and less a headache.
09-17-14, 06:46 PM
#48
Moderator
Wheel Well Sound Deadening
I applied 3 coats of SprayDead to my inner fenders and am not impressed with the results. It is a little quieter, however, I do not think the benefits outweigh the aggravation, time, effort and cost to apply it to this vehicle. I still hear plenty of tire and rough road noise. Attached are photos showing the jack with an oak block sitting under the factory pinch weld jack locations. There is a mark on the black molding to indicate exact position. The photos show the front fender liner, front fender pre application, front fender post application and rear fender post application. Plus a photo of the jack.
For the front fenders you only need to remove the rear part of the liner that faces the passenger compartment. You can easily see all the attachments although there are 4 10mm bolts with philips screw notches you remove from under the car, 2 in front and 2 in rear (only remove rear ones for front fenders). The rest are a few more bolts, some allen head bolts and some plastic clips like those on the engine cover etc.
The rear liner is attached with the same 4 bolts underneath, plus 2 bolts on the upper part and many plastic hand tight nuts over studs. There are a couple of plastic clips on the edge that have to be pried out. The part of the liner closer to the doors is wedged in tightly and takes some effort to remove. I mistakenly removed the screws from the black plastic edge protector, but that does not need to be removed. The liner squeezes in behind the metal lip.
I used painters tape on all studs and holes prior to applying deadener to protect the threads and holes.
The product was easy to apply and was like sludge. I have a thick coating after 3 layers, allowing time to dry in between. No smell, water cleanup. It dries light gray. I used some black spray paint for a couple areas in front that could be seen after the liner was replaced.
For the front fenders you only need to remove the rear part of the liner that faces the passenger compartment. You can easily see all the attachments although there are 4 10mm bolts with philips screw notches you remove from under the car, 2 in front and 2 in rear (only remove rear ones for front fenders). The rest are a few more bolts, some allen head bolts and some plastic clips like those on the engine cover etc.
The rear liner is attached with the same 4 bolts underneath, plus 2 bolts on the upper part and many plastic hand tight nuts over studs. There are a couple of plastic clips on the edge that have to be pried out. The part of the liner closer to the doors is wedged in tightly and takes some effort to remove. I mistakenly removed the screws from the black plastic edge protector, but that does not need to be removed. The liner squeezes in behind the metal lip.
I used painters tape on all studs and holes prior to applying deadener to protect the threads and holes.
The product was easy to apply and was like sludge. I have a thick coating after 3 layers, allowing time to dry in between. No smell, water cleanup. It dries light gray. I used some black spray paint for a couple areas in front that could be seen after the liner was replaced.
09-18-14, 10:15 AM
#49
Splendid, Clutchless
I think you've provided a good amount of detail for us to see what we're up against.
Your comment about the iffy results of the application also makes me wonder if it's now worth the time and hassle to do the same to our RX'10 sport.
Having already matted the cargo area with good results, I was considering just doing the inside of the front wheel wells to begin with, as it is otherwise too difficult in removing the trim and carpet away from the inside fronts of the cab.
How clean did you find the factory finish after you yanked off the liners?
Now that you've had the liners off and had a good look at them, did you entertain the idea of also applying some of your deadener to the backsides of the liners themselves? Do you think either the 'sludge',Raamat or Ensolite would stick to them for any length of time?
So, on a scale of 1 to 10, are you able to rate the benefits of doing matting of the cargo area (as we have done) vs painting the wheel wells??
I think you've provided a good amount of detail for us to see what we're up against.
Your comment about the iffy results of the application also makes me wonder if it's now worth the time and hassle to do the same to our RX'10 sport.
Having already matted the cargo area with good results, I was considering just doing the inside of the front wheel wells to begin with, as it is otherwise too difficult in removing the trim and carpet away from the inside fronts of the cab.
How clean did you find the factory finish after you yanked off the liners?
Now that you've had the liners off and had a good look at them, did you entertain the idea of also applying some of your deadener to the backsides of the liners themselves? Do you think either the 'sludge',Raamat or Ensolite would stick to them for any length of time?
So, on a scale of 1 to 10, are you able to rate the benefits of doing matting of the cargo area (as we have done) vs painting the wheel wells??
Last edited by greyRX; 09-18-14 at 10:21 AM.
09-18-14, 11:05 AM
#50
Moderator
Matting the cargo area has more benefits. I looked under the dash area. I think I can slip a couple small sheets of my multi layer deadener in that area between the carpet and car. I have no idea if it will have any benefit.
You can always remove the door panels and stick some Raamat on the metal door skin. That will help, and if you place some with Ensolite behind your speakers, they will sound better too.
I think my mostly worn OEM Michelin tires are very loud at this late stage in their life. They will be replaced soon and I plan to get aftermarket 19x8 wheels to install 255/50/19 tires. Probably Goodyear Eagle GT Asymmetrical All Season.
You cannot apply any product to the felt fender liners. They are very lightweight and thin similar to jute carpet pads. You would destroy them by applying any product and they would never fit back into place.
Removing half the front liner is not that difficult. You need a 10mm socket, tiny screwdriver to pop the small plastic clips loose, 2 or 3 mm Allen wrench and some effort to removed the 2 bigger plastic plugs on the edge by the door side of the fender. I cleaned it with some Purple Power I had laying around. You could use any cleaner like 409 or Fantastic. I also tried lacquer thinner on some of the passenger side as it was much dirtier than the driver side. There is a layer of factory black coating (sound proofing and/or debris protection) over the regular paint inside some of the inner fender. My vehicle is white so it was easy to identify. I thought some was dirt, but decided it was a coating after cleaning and reaching a point of no more would come off.
You can always remove the door panels and stick some Raamat on the metal door skin. That will help, and if you place some with Ensolite behind your speakers, they will sound better too.
I think my mostly worn OEM Michelin tires are very loud at this late stage in their life. They will be replaced soon and I plan to get aftermarket 19x8 wheels to install 255/50/19 tires. Probably Goodyear Eagle GT Asymmetrical All Season.
You cannot apply any product to the felt fender liners. They are very lightweight and thin similar to jute carpet pads. You would destroy them by applying any product and they would never fit back into place.
Removing half the front liner is not that difficult. You need a 10mm socket, tiny screwdriver to pop the small plastic clips loose, 2 or 3 mm Allen wrench and some effort to removed the 2 bigger plastic plugs on the edge by the door side of the fender. I cleaned it with some Purple Power I had laying around. You could use any cleaner like 409 or Fantastic. I also tried lacquer thinner on some of the passenger side as it was much dirtier than the driver side. There is a layer of factory black coating (sound proofing and/or debris protection) over the regular paint inside some of the inner fender. My vehicle is white so it was easy to identify. I thought some was dirt, but decided it was a coating after cleaning and reaching a point of no more would come off.
Last edited by Clutchless; 09-18-14 at 11:11 AM.
09-18-14, 02:49 PM
#51
Alrighty then. I will look a little further in the inside front foot area to see if it will be fairly easy to stick some Raamat and Ensolite there. Although my days of physically twisting myself into tight blurred spaces are gonzo now 
I may also just as well look at doing the front wheel wells at least. I can mix up a heavy batter and paint that onto all exposed body metal ..while taking the precautions you suggest.
How long did you wait between coats?
I realize that one day our tires (Michelin Latitude) will become noisy but perhaps this deadening process will help extend some noiseless joy out of them.
Thanks for the extra details on getting at the liner panels
I may also just as well look at doing the front wheel wells at least. I can mix up a heavy batter and paint that onto all exposed body metal ..while taking the precautions you suggest.
How long did you wait between coats?
I realize that one day our tires (Michelin Latitude) will become noisy but perhaps this deadening process will help extend some noiseless joy out of them.
Thanks for the extra details on getting at the liner panels
09-18-14, 06:53 PM
#52
I hate to throw another question mark in here, but I just traded my wife's 2011 (we bought CPO in 2012 with 14k miles) FWD RX350 for a new 2015. The 2011 still had the original 19" Michelins with 39k miles and it was a little noisy running with 35 psig. The new one has 19" Dunlops running at 37 psig (came that way from the dealer). We set out for Chicago this AM from Orlando with 300 miles on the clock and drove near 700 miles today. The '15 is noticeably quieter than the '11, and it sounded like the difference in tire noise was most of it. The '11 tires seemed to drum a lot when you hit seams or cracks in the pavement. If Lexus did something beyond the new Dunlops, it was stealthy but good for lowering noise. I don't recall reading anything about lower noise levels in the newer models. Maybe the newer rubber suspension bushings help too?
One other difference I noticed - the fuel economy seems to be starting better with the '15. We got 23 mpg today over 700 miles on this brand new RX, versus the best we ever saw on the '11 over the 25k miles that we owned it was 23 mpg on a tank. Oh yea, and I have to tell you we saw gas today as low as $3.01 per gallon! Y'all on the Left Coast might find that hard to believe...
I have not read it yet in the new Lexus' books, but my dealer product specialist also told me that Lexus has now tweaked the 3.5 L V6 to provide the same power on 87 octane gas, versus the premium they recommended on the 2011. But I also have to say that our '11 RX ran very well indeed on 87 octane regular gas, and octane will not affect your gas mileage, unless you do a lot of high speed driving in Death Valley in the Summer heat and don't have the tow prep for extra cooling. So it still makes me wonder if it is really worth spending the extra money for premium gas on the earlier RX's.
One other difference I noticed - the fuel economy seems to be starting better with the '15. We got 23 mpg today over 700 miles on this brand new RX, versus the best we ever saw on the '11 over the 25k miles that we owned it was 23 mpg on a tank. Oh yea, and I have to tell you we saw gas today as low as $3.01 per gallon! Y'all on the Left Coast might find that hard to believe...
I have not read it yet in the new Lexus' books, but my dealer product specialist also told me that Lexus has now tweaked the 3.5 L V6 to provide the same power on 87 octane gas, versus the premium they recommended on the 2011. But I also have to say that our '11 RX ran very well indeed on 87 octane regular gas, and octane will not affect your gas mileage, unless you do a lot of high speed driving in Death Valley in the Summer heat and don't have the tow prep for extra cooling. So it still makes me wonder if it is really worth spending the extra money for premium gas on the earlier RX's.
Last edited by 2011RX350; 09-18-14 at 07:00 PM.
09-19-14, 05:54 AM
#53
Moderator
If you study the tire review comments at Tirerack.com it becomes apparent that some tires are much noisier than others, some are quiet when new and become noisy with wear and some remain quiet. Some ride better and some absorb certain types of road bumps better than others. Some are particularly noisy in certain situations.
It is also apparent from the TireRack tire tests, which includes a mileage test, that a different tire can improve or degrade your mileage by a few miles per gallon.
Point being most of the things you pointed can be attributed to the different tires.
It is also apparent from the TireRack tire tests, which includes a mileage test, that a different tire can improve or degrade your mileage by a few miles per gallon.
Point being most of the things you pointed can be attributed to the different tires.
09-19-14, 05:59 AM
#54
Moderator
greyrx - My product said to wait a few hours before re-coating. It was obvious when dry as the stuff became lighter in color. I waited until it was mostly dry before doing the second coat on the same day as the first. I waited overnight for the third coat and it was all dry. I did not put it back together until the next day and it was dry by then with only a couple dark spots. However your product may have a different drying time and different instructions on when to apply another coat. Also, on the front wheel wells, you do not need to apply product very far along the side, do as I did in the photos. That is all that could possibly be transferred to the passenger compartment. Covering any further is a waste of time and effort.
09-20-14, 08:34 AM
#55
jacking support..
Clutchless -- when you raised your car, did you jack up all 4 corners at the same time and do all the wheel wells at once ?
I noticed that you used a hunk of wood-block for the top of your jack stand. I can't really verify, but did the thin pin-weld flange rest directly on the block, or was the block rabbited to accept the flange and then rest only on the unibody (like the OEM screw jack) ?
Do you think a 6 ton jack stand would be too tall as jacking supports ?
Have you tried other under-car locations for your jack stands ?
I noticed that you used a hunk of wood-block for the top of your jack stand. I can't really verify, but did the thin pin-weld flange rest directly on the block, or was the block rabbited to accept the flange and then rest only on the unibody (like the OEM screw jack) ?
Do you think a 6 ton jack stand would be too tall as jacking supports ?
Have you tried other under-car locations for your jack stands ?
Last edited by greyRX; 09-20-14 at 08:38 AM.
02-23-15, 07:35 AM
#56
Moderator
I know it is 5 months later, but I just went back to this thread. I jacked up the front and installed jack stands, then I jacked up the rear and placed 2 more jack stands. I used the factory pinch welds, jack support locations. Those are Oak pieces with notches cut to fit around the pinch weld. I made them a few cars ago. You could just rest the jack stand on the pinch weld, it does not make much difference, but may scrape the paint a bit I have placed jack stands farther under the car at the frame rails or rear differential or the trailer hitch. All work.
02-23-15, 08:33 AM
#57
Lexus Test Driver
That looks great op!
I'm right behind you ready to do this when I have a free weekend. Ordered some kno-knoise sound deadener, ensolite and a roll of mass loaded vinyl from a local distributor. Maybe some lead too.
I'm right behind you ready to do this when I have a free weekend. Ordered some kno-knoise sound deadener, ensolite and a roll of mass loaded vinyl from a local distributor. Maybe some lead too.
08-24-19, 08:43 AM
#58
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rx 350 upgrade sound
On my 2012 Lexus RX 350 I upgraded the non ml sound system with JL audio c5 6.5 3 way speaker in the from with the crossover and coaxial C2 6.5 in the rear.. I did the JL 82 with there biggest JL vsxi 5 channel amp 1000w ...
5 channel and the 5th channel was mono to JL 10'w3 v3 with enclosed box... the DSP is awesome for delay and alignment and tuning the system with multiple presents... we did dynomat around the vehicle and optical cable from the Jl 82 processor to VSXI amp.... I am impress with the sound, very clean no noise and it hits hard... Can't get any cleaner...
5 channel and the 5th channel was mono to JL 10'w3 v3 with enclosed box... the DSP is awesome for delay and alignment and tuning the system with multiple presents... we did dynomat around the vehicle and optical cable from the Jl 82 processor to VSXI amp.... I am impress with the sound, very clean no noise and it hits hard... Can't get any cleaner...
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