Rear wheel rotor rust
12-25-13, 07:42 AM
#1
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Rear wheel rotor rust
As anyone else experienced complete rust covering both the rear wheel rotors on a 2010 RX350? That really makes the car look like *****. Any suggestions for remedying that short of full rotor replacement?
12-25-13, 08:06 AM
#2
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I don't have 2010, but I can tell you that the amount of dust (with all other things being equal) is generally attributed the brake pad material. Are you using factory (OEM) pads?
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...tion-material/
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...tion-material/
12-25-13, 01:51 PM
#3
I don't have 2010, but I can tell you that the amount of dust (with all other things being equal) is generally attributed the brake pad material. Are you using factory (OEM) pads?
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...tion-material/
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...tion-material/
Hopefully, the rust is somewhat cleaned off after the first or second application of the brakes on your RX, tabcourt. If not, you may have a problem with the brake adjusters on the rear.
They do make brake rotors which will not rust due to their composition and production treatments. Perhaps you could look into those next time you need brakes if you plan to hold on to your RX for an extended period of time.
12-25-13, 03:12 PM
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Huh? It has a lot to do with the pads. But the rotors contribute too.
from:
http://www.tirerack.com/FAQ/results.jsp?category=Brakes
What causes brake dust?
Brake pad compounds are produced by compressing multiple components utilizing high pressures and heat to form the pad shape. These components can include carbon, steel wool, copper fibers, aramid (Kevlar) fibers, along with ceramic and/or petroleum hydrocarbon adhesives/binders.
As the pads get hot, the heat and friction cause the metallic particles in the dust to statically charge as they are worn off the pad surface and that’s what makes them stick to the surface of the wheels and other parts of the vehicle. The petroleum hydrocarbon binders also break down releasing an oily, greasy film that clings to the wheels and other components of the car. This is typically more noticeable on the front wheels since the front brakes normally do a higher percentage of the work compared to the rear.
The brake rotors are produced from cast iron. As they wear down, the iron particles wearing off of the rotor and drum surfaces also tend to statically charge and stick on surfaces. In extreme conditions, the hot iron particles can imbed and fuse in the clear coat surface of the wheels. When exposed to moisture, these iron particles will oxidize and the result is rust stains on the wheel surface.
from:
http://www.tirerack.com/FAQ/results.jsp?category=Brakes
What causes brake dust?
Brake pad compounds are produced by compressing multiple components utilizing high pressures and heat to form the pad shape. These components can include carbon, steel wool, copper fibers, aramid (Kevlar) fibers, along with ceramic and/or petroleum hydrocarbon adhesives/binders.
As the pads get hot, the heat and friction cause the metallic particles in the dust to statically charge as they are worn off the pad surface and that’s what makes them stick to the surface of the wheels and other parts of the vehicle. The petroleum hydrocarbon binders also break down releasing an oily, greasy film that clings to the wheels and other components of the car. This is typically more noticeable on the front wheels since the front brakes normally do a higher percentage of the work compared to the rear.
The brake rotors are produced from cast iron. As they wear down, the iron particles wearing off of the rotor and drum surfaces also tend to statically charge and stick on surfaces. In extreme conditions, the hot iron particles can imbed and fuse in the clear coat surface of the wheels. When exposed to moisture, these iron particles will oxidize and the result is rust stains on the wheel surface.
Last edited by mshumack; 12-25-13 at 03:18 PM.
12-25-13, 03:17 PM
#5
No, all daily driver factory rotors are made from cast iron. They just rust.
Higher quality ones will offer them dipped in a zinc bath, but it will only protect the hat portion of the rotor from corroding, not the friction surfaces.
Higher quality ones will offer them dipped in a zinc bath, but it will only protect the hat portion of the rotor from corroding, not the friction surfaces.
12-25-13, 04:34 PM
#7
No, I don't play soccer!
Or get the 450h, less brake dust 
Rust usually happens when I clean the rims with Sonax. But it goes away after driving. It doesn't bother me as much since the rims do a good job covering up the rotors. Plus the rust doesn't last.
Rust usually happens when I clean the rims with Sonax. But it goes away after driving. It doesn't bother me as much since the rims do a good job covering up the rotors. Plus the rust doesn't last.
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12-25-13, 06:37 PM
#8
Are you talking about rust on the rotor face or part of the rotor that mounts over the wheel hub?
12-25-13, 09:09 PM
#9
The brake rotors are produced from cast iron. As they wear down, the iron particles wearing off of the rotor and drum surfaces also tend to statically charge and stick on surfaces. In extreme conditions, the hot iron particles can imbed and fuse in the clear coat surface of the wheels. When exposed to moisture, these iron particles will oxidize and the result is rust stains on the wheel surface.
I have seen new vehicles sitting on lots and at the docks (Jacksonville, Baltimore, etc.) waiting for delivery with rusted rotors, especially along the outer edge.
Last edited by RX330inFL; 12-26-13 at 01:35 PM.
12-26-13, 04:55 AM
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12-26-13, 05:50 AM
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I thought the OP was asking about rotor/brake "dust" (not rust). I guess I'm getting too old and seeing things now - I need to read more carefully before I reply. sorry.
12-26-13, 06:12 AM
#12
12-26-13, 02:54 PM
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Ok here is a pic of a different rx I saw parked a few spaces away from mine. It is subjected to the same "road salt" conditions that mine is subjected to. Look ma, no rust!
12-26-13, 03:21 PM
#15
thats just the rotor hats, wherever yours came from..they didnt get the zinc treatment.
If you're that concerned about the cosmetics, get a wire cup drill attachment and clean up the rotor hat, mask off the friction surface and paint the hat with hi-temp spray paint.
IMO, its pointless to get new rotors unless they are either warped or below minimum thickness.
If you're that concerned about the cosmetics, get a wire cup drill attachment and clean up the rotor hat, mask off the friction surface and paint the hat with hi-temp spray paint.
IMO, its pointless to get new rotors unless they are either warped or below minimum thickness.