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2010 RX350 DIY Brakes vs Lexus Dealer
#16
Hi Johnny,
Thanks for the great write up. I took off my front wheel today and the front pads have about 3mm-4mm remaining.
I was also quoted a huge amount from my dealer, they told me $340 plus tax for the front pads, no rotors. I couldnt believe it, I think Im going to Toyota, but I think its still about $200+ plus tax (labour here is about $110/h).
I have a Canadian made car, do you know the part numbers for the front and rear pads? I read somewhere that the parts numbers may be different for CA and JP made cars. Do you know if I can use part #0446548150 for the front and part #0446648130 for the rear? I got those numbers from Sewell Lexus online.
Car has roughly 41,000km, 80% city driving.
Thanks.
Thanks for the great write up. I took off my front wheel today and the front pads have about 3mm-4mm remaining.
I was also quoted a huge amount from my dealer, they told me $340 plus tax for the front pads, no rotors. I couldnt believe it, I think Im going to Toyota, but I think its still about $200+ plus tax (labour here is about $110/h).
I have a Canadian made car, do you know the part numbers for the front and rear pads? I read somewhere that the parts numbers may be different for CA and JP made cars. Do you know if I can use part #0446548150 for the front and part #0446648130 for the rear? I got those numbers from Sewell Lexus online.
Car has roughly 41,000km, 80% city driving.
Thanks.
#18
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NY
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Hi,
Great thread.
My rear brakes are due...as I have 80 0000 km on my 2010 RX350 and about 2mm remaining on the pads..
When changing the pads, should the shims & clips also be replaced? I know it depends on the type of condition they're in, but is it critical enough to warrant replacing them?
thx
Larry
Great thread.
My rear brakes are due...as I have 80 0000 km on my 2010 RX350 and about 2mm remaining on the pads..
When changing the pads, should the shims & clips also be replaced? I know it depends on the type of condition they're in, but is it critical enough to warrant replacing them?
thx
Larry
#19
Hi,
Great thread.
My rear brakes are due...as I have 80 0000 km on my 2010 RX350 and about 2mm remaining on the pads..
When changing the pads, should the shims & clips also be replaced? I know it depends on the type of condition they're in, but is it critical enough to warrant replacing them?
thx
Larry
Great thread.
My rear brakes are due...as I have 80 0000 km on my 2010 RX350 and about 2mm remaining on the pads..
When changing the pads, should the shims & clips also be replaced? I know it depends on the type of condition they're in, but is it critical enough to warrant replacing them?
thx
Larry
No, you can reuse these parts. You will need to grease between the shims and the pads along with the pins and it may not be included in with the brake pads depending on your source. There are usually Permatex single use packets at the checkout counter of your local parts store.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...atex_7730004-p
#20
Self Serviced Brakes - 2010 RX350
I recently finished replacing both the front and rear pads on my 2010 RX350 at 48,000 mi.
I'm fairly new to the car having purchased it in July of this year from a dealer who purchased it at auction. The service history was intact on the car and didn't indicate any previous brake repairs.
I ordered Akebono Ceramic Pads from my favorite auto parts source. Fronts were $63.27 delivered and Rears were $56.84 delivered. Both sets of pads included the shims, clips and a packet of brake grease.
A decent floor jack, jack stands and a 1/2" air impact wrench made quick work of the wheel removal and replacement.
A 14mm box end wrench was all that was needed to remove the calipers.
The pads were easily removed and the pistons returned to their 'home' position with the aid of a large Irwin Quick-Grip clamp. I was careful to remove the cover on the Brake Fluid reservoir before pushing the pistons back. I checked and someone had apparently 'topped off' the brake fluid as it rose to overflowing quickly. A large syringe was used to extract a quantity of brake fluid.
Clips were placed on the new pads and a dab of grease on the slides and all went back together smoothly. I checked the caliper centering pins to make sure they were free.
After refitting the calipers, I tested the brakes and topped off the fluid (DOT 4) before remounting the wheels and hand torquing them.
Time start to finish was a leisurely 1.5 hours if you don't count the time out to watch some football during the process. All done for $120 and a little sweat equity. Brakes have a couple of hundred miles on them now and are working great.
I'm fairly new to the car having purchased it in July of this year from a dealer who purchased it at auction. The service history was intact on the car and didn't indicate any previous brake repairs.
I ordered Akebono Ceramic Pads from my favorite auto parts source. Fronts were $63.27 delivered and Rears were $56.84 delivered. Both sets of pads included the shims, clips and a packet of brake grease.
A decent floor jack, jack stands and a 1/2" air impact wrench made quick work of the wheel removal and replacement.
A 14mm box end wrench was all that was needed to remove the calipers.
The pads were easily removed and the pistons returned to their 'home' position with the aid of a large Irwin Quick-Grip clamp. I was careful to remove the cover on the Brake Fluid reservoir before pushing the pistons back. I checked and someone had apparently 'topped off' the brake fluid as it rose to overflowing quickly. A large syringe was used to extract a quantity of brake fluid.
Clips were placed on the new pads and a dab of grease on the slides and all went back together smoothly. I checked the caliper centering pins to make sure they were free.
After refitting the calipers, I tested the brakes and topped off the fluid (DOT 4) before remounting the wheels and hand torquing them.
Time start to finish was a leisurely 1.5 hours if you don't count the time out to watch some football during the process. All done for $120 and a little sweat equity. Brakes have a couple of hundred miles on them now and are working great.
The following 3 users liked this post by K1200ltc:
#21
Glad to hear, K1200ltc. Never a rush to get these things done. Slow and steady. Sounds like you were very thorough to make sure everything was inspected along the way. You should be good to go for another 50K.
#22
Driver School Candidate
I was trying to buy these OEM brake pads off craigslist and Amazon and emailed the seller (which is a toyota dealer and he told me the part numbers depend on whether if it's JP or CA model)
Japan (pretty sure)
part #0446548150 for the front
part #0446648130 for the rear
Canada (not 100% sure, please double check with dealer)
Part Number : 044650E010
Part Number : 044660E010
reference:
http://www.oemtoyotascionparts.com/?...ch_in=all&pg=0
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Farhanek (11-23-23)
#23
Driver School Candidate
On 07-23-12, 05:33 PM Johnny wrote:
My odo is coming up to 70,000 kms (abt. 44,000 miles). Outlay included ... a 2-day subscription to Toyota's TIS for step-by-step instructions.
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I will be following up with photos and detailed procedures at a later date in this thread.
My odo is coming up to 70,000 kms (abt. 44,000 miles). Outlay included ... a 2-day subscription to Toyota's TIS for step-by-step instructions.
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.
.
I will be following up with photos and detailed procedures at a later date in this thread.
- Was there any followup photos or detailed procedure description?
- You mentioned temporary subscription to Toyota's TIS. Was it useful and how applicable to a Lexus RX 350?
- What are the torque specs for the wheel lug nuts and to the other bolts which need to get removed/re-tightened?
- I looked at a
Last edited by surferbum; 11-20-13 at 09:32 AM.
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roncollett (05-27-21)
#24
I don't know what model year RX you have, but there are no caliper pins in my 2010 brakes. Pads are kept in place by the caliper piston shell. The upper and lower tabs along with the clip on shims ride in a notch on the brake housing. A little moly grease in the notch will help them retract as needed.
FWIW, I didn't put any moly grease on the flat shims that came attached to the pads and they squeal a bit when applying them in reverse when cold. Shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Here is a .pdf of what the parts look like and the caliper piston shell...
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...ze/476669C.jpg
FWIW, I didn't put any moly grease on the flat shims that came attached to the pads and they squeal a bit when applying them in reverse when cold. Shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Here is a .pdf of what the parts look like and the caliper piston shell...
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...ze/476669C.jpg
Last edited by K1200ltc; 11-19-13 at 01:39 PM. Reason: added link
#25
Driver School Candidate
I don't know what model year RX you have, but there are no caliper pins in my 2010 brakes. Pads are kept in place by the caliper piston shell. The upper and lower tabs along with the clip on shims ride in a notch on the brake housing. A little moly grease in the notch will help them retract as needed.
FWIW, I didn't put any moly grease on the flat shims that came attached to the pads and they squeal a bit when applying them in reverse when cold. Shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Here is a .pdf of what the parts look like and the caliper piston shell...
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...ze/476669C.jpg
FWIW, I didn't put any moly grease on the flat shims that came attached to the pads and they squeal a bit when applying them in reverse when cold. Shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Here is a .pdf of what the parts look like and the caliper piston shell...
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...ze/476669C.jpg
A few questions:
- Was there any followup photos or detailed procedure description?
- You mentioned temporary subscription to Toyota's TIS. Was it useful and how applicable to a Lexus RX 350?
- What are the torque specs for the wheel lug nuts and to the other bolts which need to get removed/re-tightened?
- I looked at a recent YouTube video for a 2008 RX 350. There was no mention of cleaning/lubing caliper slide pins. What is the recommend practice for the caliper slide pins?
#26
28 ft lb for the calipers I believe. Please check a service manual to verify for your own peace of mind.
76 ft lb for the lug nuts (Manual Section 5-2, pg. 580 (also several other pages)).
76 ft lb for the lug nuts (Manual Section 5-2, pg. 580 (also several other pages)).
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roncollett (05-27-21)
#27
Driver School Candidate
Does anyone have a service manual and if so can they confirm the 28 ft lb? Are both pairs of bolts the same torque spec?
#28
Driver School Candidate
My Rx 2010 has 35K miles and I have been taking it to Lexus since I bought it with 27K miles, and not once they have mentioned brakes. I do drive once in a while with windows open to hear noises and none so far.
I do my brakes, I just did my wife's Acura and invested less than 200 dollars and everything was replaced, rotors, pads- ceramics- and only needed to invest on tool to push rear piston to be able to install new pads.
When time comes, i will probably look into doing my Lexus brakes also, and i see DYI is bar far the ones mentioned most, so will look into these.
thanks, Jose
I do my brakes, I just did my wife's Acura and invested less than 200 dollars and everything was replaced, rotors, pads- ceramics- and only needed to invest on tool to push rear piston to be able to install new pads.
When time comes, i will probably look into doing my Lexus brakes also, and i see DYI is bar far the ones mentioned most, so will look into these.
thanks, Jose
#29
Driver School Candidate
Brake replacement
My 2010 RX350 just turned over 80,000 miles and still has the original brakes..pads etc. Everytime i get an oil change i have them check the pads and they say they are fine. Probably 75% of our driving is expressways so that is a major factor, but even that makes this amazing to me. I kind of wish they would wear out so i could replace them!