dganapol

All,


I have looked and searched and cannot find out how to remove the front drive shaft. I have the shaft moving almost pulled and the motor mount is in the way on the passenger side. Any insights into what I need to do next. I replaced the motor mounts last year so I can do it. Picture to follow.

As you can see the drive shaft hits the motor mount and will not come out. It is the passenger side which is longer. These are after market mount, but they have t be the correct size. Car is RX 350 2007.
Thx,
David

dganapol

This is just turning into another major pain. As you can see from the reply's (none) no one has either done it (not likely) or it was done during another job.

Everything is going well until I tried to pull out the passenger drive shaft. Because it is longer it runs into the motor mount before it can exit the spline of the transmission. Once I jacked up the engine again, I did the control arms, ball joint, last year and in December of last year I replaced he struts which is another story for later. Now I find it would hit the strut before it can be removed. I am not too fond of lifting the engine as I crushed the transmission pan, my fault I left one of the nuts on the front motor mount. Oops!

I only started this job because during my last oil change I noticed the axle shaft were leaking both sides.

To all you guys that have done this job. When you have completed this you are more than an "shade tree mechanic"!! You are experts!!

My project car!

dganapol

All,

I just finished putting everything back and I am changing the oil now. I also did the rubber to metal hose cross over but it seem to be leaking and I will have to remove and redo.

As you know I have a lift in my garage so my perspective is a little different then working on the ground. But this is what I found out:

1. To replace the passenger side axle, the motor mount will have to be remove and also the strut.
2. The seals are different sizes and the one for the passenger side on my car is different then the one on rockauto, I needed the Toyota #90311-34021
3. I haven't tried this but to remove the rear motor mount the bolts go thru the frame just like the sides, should work.
4. To release the axle bearing, follow the directions on removing the dented push in part of the nut, buy the Dewalt cordless impact gun 700 lbs of torque and 1200 breaking torque (always wanted one) or remove and install as follows:

Spray with your favorite removal liquid.

Put a screwdriver in between the rotor and it will lock against the caliber, works great!!

5. According to some documentation for the Highlander, drain the transfer case and the transmission before pulling the passenger side axle or the oils will mix, I don't see how but I did it anyway.
6. Take the hub to a shop to R & R the bearing, $100 later all done. I have a press but it is very hard to get correct hardware to make a "jig" to hold it. Money well spent.

Over all cost including new tools (impact gun) $800 (so far)
Drive shafts
seals (3)
Sway bar bushings
30mm 12 point socket
bearings (2)
Extra drive shaft nuts
New bearing retainer clips

Tools:
Dewalt impact gun
Milwaukee 1/4 in cordless ratchet




All that is left is to fill the oils and alignment. I do my own alignments, it is very easy. It is the same process on a lift or on the ground. If anyone whats to know and see the equipment let me know. Pays for itself in two alignments.

More to follow.

David

dganapol

All,

Just finished the alignment, all looks good. I did notice a leak on the oil pan #1. Has anybody re-sealed the oil pan in the car or do you have to remove the engine (not happening!!).

I just did the fluids today, rear axle differential, front transfer case, transmission. Just a side note always loosen the top fill bolt first, just in case you can't get it off, the car is still driveable.

David