Eliaquim

I have engine out. After the first mech wirjedworked on it I only drove for about 500 miles and already spun a rod bearing again. The guy did not check the clearances nor did he use a torquing wrench. By the way, it's on a different journal.

By the looks of it, the problem started with oil starvation caused by plugged gallies. Maybe because I swapped to synthetic without knowing what the previous owner was using, maybe because of poor oil quality.

I will clean everything, polish or resurface the crank and put new bearings and oil pump. I will have the 2 connecting rods repaired.

Any suggestions, please.

At this phase, I would change the title of this thread, but I can't see how, using a phone.

fastnoypi

I have read similar articles, if you stay in the wider end of spec (looser) it should help the low to mid-range rpm band where the car is designed and tuned to get the most torque and efficiency. Too loose past spec, the exhaust valve does not lift enough and hinders exhaust flow.

As far as valves, if you want to try salvaging or trying new local is finding an exhaust valve from a similar 3MZ-FE engine to grind.

Regarding synthetic oil use, swapping to it doesnt cause clogging. Most likely poor quality, or contamination by poor air filtration or lack of oil changes caused the sludging.

Consider doing an engine flush when things are up and running. There is much debate to the multiple methods which you will have to weigh out the risks.

Eliaquim

Thank you again! I am learlearning a lot from this experience and from you.

I will do my best to adjust the valve clearances. And now I wonder if this hindering of the exhaust flow would blow a head gasket. I ask this because by the looks of it, my gaskets were bad. I found traces of water in the cylinders, between the heads and the pistons. Not in the oil pan and there was no overheating.

About the oil, I think the car was abused before I bought it. Plus lack of quality.

The engine flush, do I have to do it if I have the heads, block, oil cooler and radiator cleaned before assembly?

Eliaquim

Update:

1 - I am having difficulties finding a precision tool to check the heads and block for warpage. What do you think it takes a 12 year RX engine to warp?

2 - One of the main bearings is shot.

Question: I would not like to mess with the valves. Do you think it is safe?

Question : what do you think would cause a ticking noise on top of the engine? I noticed this before things went all bad and thought it was because of the fuel quality. Do you think it had anything to do with the problems I'm having?

Eliaquim

Some more thing I remember.
When checking the crank before removing it, it was not rotating smoothly. At one specific point, got harder to turn. What gives? Warpage? I can't check?

Also, there was no thrust movement. Manual says 0.04 mm, but nothing. And there is sign of friction between the crank and the thrust washers. Could it be expansion for heating?

fastnoypi

hindering exhaust flow will not blow a headgasket, it just causes inefficiency by unnecessary backpressure. Poor cooling and high cylinder pressures will cause a blown headgasket.

No engine flush necessary if you do a "hot tank" method of cleaning all sludge and debris.

You just need a precision straight edge and feeler gauges to check for warpage on the heads and block. More often the heads will warp before the block in an overheat situation. Prep the surfaces well with as little abrasive as possible before assembly. 3m bristle discs or light kitchen scrubbers and brake cleaner work well.
As far as the crank, you will have to inspect the bearing journals, drag might also be from dragging piston rings as well. Disassemble completely and inspect.

5gears-IS

iTrader: (5)

Op,
As I read your thread I must say your engine problem was not caused overnight and has nothing to do on weather or not you or the previous owner used regular or synthetic oil or a mix of both. I will say it was lack of oil changes stretching the oil intervals. You can use any brand of oil as long as you change it frequent and use the called viscosity per the cars specs.

Also checking the head for warpage by a professional is very affordable just go to your local machine shop because you also need to look out for other issues like hairline cracks which are not visible. They do a pressure test and can even shave the heads if recommended.

I know you want to save money but piece of mind goes a long way after hauling that engine out.

Just my two cents....

Eliaquim

Thank you! I had already checked the block and it is within spec. Also, the car never showed a sign of overheating while with me.

Now for the bad news. By the sizes of the journals that look good, the crank had already been resurfaced before. Now the first guy who worked on the car the just put new standard bearings without checking clearances. First mistake. The last shop I took the car to advised me to take the car home until I had the parts, as state in the original post. When tried to call the tow guy, the mechanic said : "this is already broken. Don't spend money on towing again. Go driving slowly." And that, I think, put one journal beyond repair. The spun bearing kept curving and curving and niw not even 0.020 is possible. I wish I knew all this technical stuff before.
From now on, I will service my cars myself.

Eliaquim

Thank you! I agree with you about the oil changes. I was very careful with it. Now, for the brand, I was using Castrol. Turns out the one we have here, made in South Africa, is not really good. There are stories of people finding water in stalled bottles. I went to Toyota every time oil change was due to check for 5w30, but they never had.

Yes I will have the heads checked. I am now concentrating on the block. Now I have to look for another crank. My best option here is to get a block from a used camry and use the crank. Then I will send everything to the machine shop, which is almost 400 miles away. 400.

Now the problem with money is not really that I want to spend less. Locally, it is no problem. The problem is that because of new laws here, there are limitations on how much a person can spend with international transactions Monthly. And the parts for this car, I will have to import. So the least I have to import, the faster I have the car on the streets. But I don't want to mess things up. So thank you for this advice. Will take my time.

Eliaquim

OK, time for pictures. Sorry I did not post them before because I am doing this far from home with no cable network. The phone bill would be too high.

Warning: very graphic content.

Eliaquim

What do you think of this color?





front





back





didnt have to remove the engine wire











Oil pump.





There shold be nno oil here, right?











This cap, the one with the snapped bearings, looks like it was forcefully put in place, like, with a hammer. That last mechanic is a killer.





Signs of scratching on the sides of most rods.

5gears-IS

iTrader: (5)

^^^^ Wow! Sludge R us!

fastnoypi

Eliaquim, those pictures are quite a nightmare. At this point if you are still hopeful to salvage, i would consider dropping out the full rotating assembly, pistons, rods and all. Check the cylinders for wall damage and make a decision to walk away and look for a new or running short or longblock. If there is excessive wall damage that will not hone out, you will need to bore and go oversized pistons. Its a rabbit hole from there for the amount of machine shop services you will need. If all looks good, get some quotes from the machinist for hot tanking everything, ready for your reassembly if you want to tackle the bottom end yourself with a sourced crank and measurement of bearings.

for what its worth, the piston may be salvageable, they are carboned up due to oil consumption. Carb cleaner can break that all up. Supposedly soaking in ATF and rubbing with a plastic scrubber will work too. There are other methods but you have to use caution if they are harmful to aluminum.

Best of luck

Eliaquim

Yeah! before buying this car with 120.000 miles I checked online an notice stories of RX's going up to 250.000 miles. I thought it was enough for me. Just didn't factor in the fact that it could have not been well treated. And I didn't know much about cars. I do not think that te less than 15 miles I put on it did all this damage.

Eliaquim

I am still hope to salvage it, yes. Everything is already out of the block. I checked and there is no warpage or cracks. I'm now looking for used 2005 - 2006 Toyota Camry block. The crankshaft and the rods are the same, as per toyo d i y dot com. Rockauto says the crank from the highlander is the same, and even the long block. toyo d i y does not list the highlander. What do you think. These are the best options I could have here.

Now, I could sell it for ship to a mechanic and get a 2009 RX350 with 70,000 miles. Everything seems to be ok, but the colour, man. I hate wine colored cars. Right now that's the only option that would keep me running a car I came to know so well.